The_Dtrain
Well-Known Member
lonepalm-
how did you attach the the racking valve? Is that a weldless fitting for a kettle?
Dtrain
15 Gallon Fermenter Table Build
- Thread starter SpottedDogBrewing
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lonepalm-
how did you attach the the racking valve? Is that a weldless fitting for a kettle?
Dtrain
I'll take a pic of it tonight. But what i did was used a CPVC Elbow and used that with a nipple and attached the valve. Pointed the elbow down.
All parts sourced from The Home Depot using brass fittings. I will convert over to SS once the AG equipment is all built.
i still don't get the yeast catcher... sorry, i'm slow.
wouldn't the trub settle in the catcher first and then the yeast on top of that? or is that the point? i.e. the catcher separates the trub first and then you just free-dump the yeast into a bucket or something?
wouldn't the trub settle in the catcher first and then the yeast on top of that? or is that the point? i.e. the catcher separates the trub first and then you just free-dump the yeast into a bucket or something?
Knight03
Active Member
Don't beat me for the noob question. Why not use PVC vales?
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Knight03 said:
I've converted to plastic valves
no problems!Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk
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Apoxbrew said:
My main objective is to have the junk settle in the catcher and not at the bottom of my conical. Makes it cleaner for keg day!
Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
SpottedDogBrewing said:I've converted to plastic valves
Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk
Family business is plumbing....caution beer porn attached...guess woulda been cooler if not all bagged up
bblack7489
Well-Known Member
I've converted to plastic valves
Where did you find the proper PVC parts? I have a 15 gallon full drain tank coming, and I'd like to know whether I'm going to be able to collect the right stuff at HD / Lowes / Ace or if I need to start looking online.
Is it a 1 1/2" threaded to 2" PVC coupling, a 2" ball valve and then whatever I want to put on the downstream side of that? Or is it 1 1/2" thread to 1 1/2" PVC?
Oh, and what made you decide to make the change from SS to PVC?
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bblack7489 said:
U should be able to get all the stuff from any of those three place's.
My 15 gallon conical has a 1-1/2" outlet. So I use a 1-1/2" nipple to a 1-1/2" ball valve.
cjham9985
Member
So the websites I'm looking at show the lid as a solid lid...dont we need the airlock? Am i missing something in the 16 pages of this thread about adding one?
EarthBound
Well-Known Member
Modifications must be made for the lid to actually seal. Here's an example of said modication. So I guess it's OK to not have an airlock. I sealed mine, but I'm still not using an airlock. I installed a bulkhead through the lid. Other people on this forum have done the same, I think.
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EarthBound said:
I Like
bblack7489
Well-Known Member
SBD, I may have missed it earlier in the thread, but is there a specific reason that you went from the fancy SS valves and fittings to PVC? I like the idea since it's a tiny fraction of the cost, but if you already had the fittings, why change out to PVC?
OP
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Lighter, easier to remove and clean, easier to open/close valve. Entire weight of conical lighter to lift and move.:rockin:
bblack7489
Well-Known Member
Right on. I figured that it had to be something relatively compelling for you to decide to switch it out after it was already up and going.
I got my tank from the USP guy today (couldn't pass up the free shipping) and have a bag full of PVC bits and pieces. I'm looking forward to putting mine together and getting it mounted in my fermentation fridge this weekend. Thanks for the guidance.
I got my tank from the USP guy today (couldn't pass up the free shipping) and have a bag full of PVC bits and pieces. I'm looking forward to putting mine together and getting it mounted in my fermentation fridge this weekend. Thanks for the guidance.
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Extra photos of the yeast/scrub catcher for the 30 gallon fermenter.
Remove/Clean/Sanitize
Remove/Clean/Sanitize
PleasantValleyHops
Well-Known Member
Man i need to get something like this tired of splitting 10 gal batches into different ferm. Need more time to read these. Need to get back to work.
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dcarroll86 said:
Take a look at this link also: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/super-simple-15g-plastic-conical-276378/
Read both, great ideas in each thread!!!
GrillManBill
New Member
Thanks for the information SpottedDog. I am beginning to accumulate pieces for a 15 gallon conical build. I was thinking of using a clear PVC for the body of the yeast/scrub catcher. What is the diameter on the body of the catcher for the 15 gallon? I found 1 ft of 2" clear PVC for $12 plus ship, or 1 ft of 3" for $25. Kinda pricey, but still cheap compared to a real sight glass. I like the idea of being able to see whats going on down there. Thanks again for the ideas!
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-CLEAR-PIPE-NSF-Sch40
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-CLEAR-PIPE-NSF-Sch40
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GrillManBill said:
I've been pretty busy at work, I'm keg'n and bottling tonight so I I remember I'll take a look!
Check out post #96 and let me know if that is enough info
GrillManBill
New Member
It looks like you used 4" for the body. I think I will try the 3" clear and make the body longer. I will have plenty of clearance in my planned stand. I will shoot for about a quart of capacity. Thanks.
pinback
Well-Known Member
kinda breaks my heart to see all that awesome yeast get poured down the drain...maybe you should ziplock bag the next harvest and mail it to me...i would gladly pay shipping!
ghoti
Well-Known Member
Spotted, how tall is it from the floor to the top of the fermentor? I am just trying to get an idea if this will work for me as I am working on building a fermentation chamber.
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ghoti said:
71.5" for the 30 gallon fermenter & 66.5" for the 15 gallon!
The 30 gallon if I cut a larger hole in the table could lower roughly 8.5". The 15 gallon could lower roughly 4".
I guess you could possible build the the table high enough to fit a bucket under the yeast catcher. A typical brewing bucket is 17". Just make sure you can get it under the ball valve and yeast catcher if your going to have one of those!!
Check post #122 in this thread for some other measurements
Good luck
The last batch a ran...First AG BTW. i'm still having trouble getting things to settle into the catcher after i dump the yeast.
This last time i had a 2' section of 1/4" copper tubing, sanitized inside/out and i was breaking the cake after i put the catcher back on.starting to think i need to go to a larger valve and have the reducer after the valve instead of before.
thoughts?
This last time i had a 2' section of 1/4" copper tubing, sanitized inside/out and i was breaking the cake after i put the catcher back on.starting to think i need to go to a larger valve and have the reducer after the valve instead of before.
thoughts?
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I typically leave the valve open during fermentation, so most I the stuff settles in the catcher! Sounds like you may have had the valve closed and it formed a hard layer above the valve!lonepalm said:
it was all open..the yeast dump was full, just can't get it to settle back down....only new addition to the mix is a 9" gasket to seal the lid. maybe once it is off the yeast. remove the sanitizer from the airlock?
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How much will your yeast/shrub catcher hold? for my 30 gallon fermenter I made a 2 quart catcher, I may make one that is 3 quart or 1 gallon.
Same goes for the 15 gallon fermenter, right now I have a 1 quart. I should move it up to possibly 2quart or 3 quart.
You have to find the sweet spot where everything collects in there during fermentation and secondary times.
If you have a smaller catcher try changing it out more often or make a larger one.
So it seems like the basic premise is that your "yeast catcher" is really a "yeast and everything else catcher" and your goal is not so much harvesting the yeast (as I don't see how you would be separating the yeast from the trub after you collect it), just getting the beer off of the trub and yeast and having a clearer beer when kegging?
