120v EBIAB systems 5 gallon batches (for apartment) - recommendations

[Unicorn_Platypus]

Hey folks,

I'm moving and will no longer have outdoor space to brew on my existing 10 gallon propane setup.

Looking to scale down to 5 gallon batches on a EBIAB setup that stores easily in an 1 BD apartment. My new place will only have 120v hookups. What do folks recommend? I can spend up to $2k

Cheers!

 

[FloppyKnockers]

You can simply just do two ULWD elements, two cords, and two plugs. You will need to check first, but most of the kitchens I know have at least two 20a circuits in it.

Energize both to heat to mash and to boil and energize only one to keep a boil.

 

[Unicorn_Platypus]

You can simply just do two ULWD elements, two cords, and two plugs. You will need to check first, but most of the kitchens I know have at least two 20a circuits in it.

Energize both to heat to mash and to boil and energize only one to keep a boil.

this might be a dumb question, but how do you identify that the two outlets are on separate circuits?

 

[Bobby_M]

this might be a dumb question, but how do you identify that the two outlets are on separate circuits?

Map out the breaker box. Plug a loud radio into and outlet and sequentially flip breakers off until it gets quiet, write that down and go move the radio to other outlets in the same room until you find a live one,

 

[SoulToast]

this might be a dumb question, but how do you identify that the two outlets are on separate circuits?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-T...ip_instock_mobile-_-202266613-_-308709729-_-N
Something like this. Also has the added benefit of the circuit tester with it. I wish I'd seen this before I bought the one I've got.

It makes it infinitely easier to locate outlets, and if you scribble a little map while you're doing it, you can tack a copy up inside your breaker box and always have a clear reference.

I say this not having mapped out my outlets and network ports like I swore I would when I moved three years ago...

 

[FloppyKnockers]

GFCIs are most certainly on their own circuit (check to be sure). They get the line from the panel and protect every outlet downstream (load). If the GFCIs are in convenient locations... Cool. If not, hit the 'test' button on one and test the outlets in the kitchen for power. All the ones without are on that circuit. Hot the reset button and repeat with the other GFCI(s).

 

[NTexBrewer]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...ny-help-much-appreciated.648742/#post-8279797
Scroll down to post #25. This is my setup and it may work for you. I use the circuit that has the dishwasher and sink disposal for one element and the counter outlet for my other element. The advantage is I use the Sink Disposal switch to control one element.

As others above have stated they need to be on different circuits. This should be the case for newer construction.

 

[broadbill]

if there is nothing magical about 5 gallons, you can scale that back to 4 gallons and probably boil with only one 120V circuit.

 

[Unicorn_Platypus]

if there is nothing magical about 5 gallons, you can scale that back to 4 gallons and probably boil with only one 120V circuit.

Does anyone have recommendations for systems? I've been looking at the Brau Supply. Seems like it's better quality than a grainfather / robobrew type setup.

I currently infusion mash and have never used pump. Does having a pump actually produce significantly better beer for a 5g batch? Is it worth it if you're not step mashing?

https://brausupply.com/products/unibrau-customizer

 

[NGD]

Probably a dumb question, but seeing as your in NYC, is steam/condensation something you need to worry about?

Not much to add, but when I was looking for a similar setup read several people praise the Clawhammer system. That Brau setup looks pretty good though.
https://www.clawhammersupply.com/products/digital-electric-120v-homebrew-beer-system

 

[Unicorn_Platypus]

Probably a dumb question, but seeing as your in NYC, is steam/condensation something you need to worry about?

Not much to add, but when I was looking for a similar setup read several people praise the Clawhammer system. That Brau setup looks pretty good though.
https://www.clawhammersupply.com/products/digital-electric-120v-homebrew-beer-system

Hadn't considered condensation from boil off as I currently brew outdoors. A lot of other folks brew in NYC. Assuming if I brew near my stovetop and turn on the vent or open the window should be ok.

 

[Unicorn_Platypus]

if there is nothing magical about 5 gallons, you can scale that back to 4 gallons and probably boil with only one 120V circuit.

A keg fits 5g and I like having a full keg

I'm already scaling down from 10g

 

[Unicorn_Platypus]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...ny-help-much-appreciated.648742/#post-8279797
Scroll down to post #25. This is my setup and it may work for you. I use the circuit that has the dishwasher and sink disposal for one element and the counter outlet for my other element. The advantage is I use the Sink Disposal switch to control one element.

As others above have stated they need to be on different circuits. This should be the case for newer construction.

Great idea. Dishwasher likely would be on separate circuit

 

[Bobby_M]

Recirculation is optional for a 5 gallon batch in my opinion. If you're willing to stir the mash say every 15 minutes, then you negate the benefits. The only other nice application for a pump is being able to whirlpool. I can make you a nice 10 gallon kettle with dual 1650 watt TC installed elements with a false bottom and bag. You can do mash control with either an Inkbird IPB16S controller or a blichmann brew Commander. I've been goofing around with the idea of turning a single brew commander into a dual circuit controller without the extra relay module by replacing the SSR with a dual channel relay. I just need to see if I can get another two cable grips into the case.

 

[skidmark]

... Looking to scale down to 5 gallon batches on a EBIAB setup that stores easily in an 1 BD apartment. My new place will only have 120v hookups. What do folks recommend? ...

How about a hybrid stovetop/RIMS system?

I built one using an 8.5 gallon kettle and a 1600 watt element. I use the stovetop for the heavy lifting, and the RIMS to maintain fine temp control via a PID for mash steps. A pump drives the flow, and allows whirlpooling through the inline counterflow chiller.

Everything (except the pump) fits in the kettle for storage.

 

[Bobby_M]

I personally would never run a separate RIMS on a BIAB rig. There's no benefit when the element can be installed in the vessel and the grain isolation done with a false bottom.

 

[boutanhourbrewing]

I will second the Clawhammer recommendation. I bought their 120v 5 gallon system in May. I have done 6 batches on the system, and it is amazing. I used to brew using coolers as Mash Tuns and HLTs (for about 5 years), and I'm in love with the Clawhammer system. I am not sure which is better, their customer service or their system, but you wont be disappointed with either. Super small footprint, which is what it sounds like you are looking for. And it will also be well inside your budget. They have a ton of videos on youtube, so check it out. And if you shoot them an email, the owners of the company (the folks in their videos) will respond. I think the longest wait time I ever had for an email question was 4 hours. Check them out, you wont be disappointed.

 

[skidmark]

I personally would never run a separate RIMS on a BIAB rig. There's no benefit when the element can be installed in the vessel and the grain isolation done with a false bottom.

Also, no reason not to. It works great.

 

[Bobby_M]

Also, no reason not to. It works great.

I'm sure that it works and I understand it's in poor taste to cut down a system that someone invested in and enjoys. When you say there is no reason not to, I don't really agree. I don't mean to derail this thread too far but here's just a brief list:

Internal element:
Pros: less heat loss in the system, does not require recirculation during heating, more compact system, same heat source for mash maintain and boiling, less chance of scorching, ability to clean (physically with a scrub pad or brush) the element in place without removing, less complicated, more compact system, cheaper.
Cons: Requires a false bottom for BIAB or a rigid basket to keep grains away.

RIMS tube:
Pros: Does not require a false bottom... having trouble finding more here.
Cons: More expensive, more complex, requires a pump, requires pump to be running during heating, higher chance of scorching if grain compaction happens or if pump speed exceeds drainage, element must be removed for inspection, boiler requires a separate heat source for boiling.

Again, I'm not saying it doesn't work. I'm just saying it's not the best choice and that's coming from someone who sells RIMS tubes and stands to make more profit when someone buys it.

 

[skidmark]

I'm sure that it works and I understand it's in poor taste to cut down a system that someone invested in and enjoys. When you say there is no reason not to, I don't really agree. I don't mean to derail this thread too far but here's just a brief list:

Internal element:
Pros: less heat loss in the system, does not require recirculation during heating, more compact system, same heat source for mash maintain and boiling, less chance of scorching, ability to clean (physically with a scrub pad or brush) the element in place without removing, less complicated, more compact system, cheaper.
Cons: Requires a false bottom for BIAB or a rigid basket to keep grains away.

RIMS tube:
Pros: Does not require a false bottom... having trouble finding more here.
Cons: More expensive, more complex, requires a pump, requires pump to be running during heating, higher chance of scorching if grain compaction happens or if pump speed exceeds drainage, element must be removed for inspection, boiler requires a separate heat source for boiling.

Again, I'm not saying it doesn't work. I'm just saying it's not the best choice and that's coming from someone who sells RIMS tubes and stands to make more profit when someone buys it.

We can flog this all day long, but there are several things that bear mentioning. Yes, requires a pump. Pump enables chilling kettle to hopstand temps, as well as recirc. Who has drainage problems at BIAB ratios? Cleaning -- a single TC holds the element. Portability -- easily moved from one system to another. The big one -- 120VAC operation on a single circuit.

As we all know (or, why else would we be here?) there are more than one solution to any given problem. The end user can decide for themselves what fits their needs best.

 

[jwa120]

I use to use a stove and a 1500w element. When I had to replace the microwave above my stove my Kettle didn't fit anymore and I had to relocate my Kettle and add a 2nd element to my system. I now brew on my countertop which is adjacent to my sink and water supply so I no longer have to limbo under hoses running to my chiller to get from one side of my small nyc apt to the other. If my Kettle was any bigger it wouldn't fit on my counter and I would be brewing on the floor in my narrow kitchen. The point I'm getting at is you need to look at how your system is going to function/fit in your limited space.

My current BIAB set up has two elements on two circuits connected to a diy controller, I also have recirculation and a steam condenser. The negatives include its bulkier and takes longer to setup then an all in one system. The positives are I can maintain/heat my mash (it's not important to everyone), and the biggest advantage is I don't dump a lot of heat and moisture into the apt.

I can't recommend a system since I haven't used any of them, I made my own. I would look for something that has a controller that has a timer, it's nice to set it up the night before and wake up ready to dough in.