120v 15a EZBoil for BIAC

[Byrd]

Guys my head about to explode with all the options here. I'm trying to accomplish a Brewery in a Conical (BIAC) using electric. I'm looking for the most cost efficient and cleanest implementation to achieve this. Here's what I'm wanting from my 5 gallon setup:

Heating
- 2x 1500 watt hotrod heatsticks. 1 has GFCI and is not controlled and 1 does not have GFCI and is controlled. On brew day, the GFCI heat stick is purely to get me to boil, the other is to maintain the boil.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrodrtu1500std.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrodrtu1500gfci.htm

Boil & Fermentation Control
- Auber EZBoil DSPR120. Going for the 15a 120v because I want this to be relatively portable and I'm in the US. 2x1500 heatsticks should be able to get 5 gallons to a rolling boil without an issue, the Potentiometer on 1 heatstick allows for controlling boilover.
-1" PT 100RTD sensor

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=467

Here's the concept, I use the EZBoil to maintain the boil and complete the brewing process. Upon flame out, I then take the 120v heating element out of the EZBoil and insert the immersion chiller pump power in and set the temperature on the EZBoil where I want it to be (ie 70 degrees). This will bring down my temps AND maintain fermentation throughout the process. During fermentation, if the temps rise, the immersion pump kicks on and brings it back inline.

Is there a cooling setting on the EZBoil or is it used to only raise temps?

Is there a way I could make the SS Brewtech FTSS to activate my heating elements? I know it can do the cooling.

Am I missing something?
Would this work?

https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/ftss/products/ftss-temp-control-for-7-gallon-bucket-chronical

The immersion chiller will look like the coils in this picture and installed on the side of the conical.

Thanks in advance!

 

[singybrue]

EZ boil heats only, it's not a dual stage controller.

More importantly, why is one circuit not GFCI protected?
#1 safety rule for electric brewing- water and electricity don't mix! GFCI protection is a must!
Slap a GFCI outlet in where you are plugging in the hot rod.

 

[Byrd]

EZ boil heats only, it's not a dual stage controller.

More importantly, why is one circuit not GFCI protected?
#1 safety rule for electric brewing- water and electricity don't mix! GFCI protection is a must!
Slap a GFCI outlet in where you are plugging in the hot rod.

Thanks for the reply! It does appear it's heat only. I'm looking into the MyPin TD4 to handle both heating and cooling as it will take the RTD sensor which is a lot more accurate. Options like the InkBird C206T (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N464JQ8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) or the baylite controller (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KMA6EAM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) are interesting but they are likely to overshoot.

To address your second question, one heatstick is not protected as it cannot be controlled if there's a GFCI in between the controller and the heatstick. The wall outlet that powers the controller is protected. You think further safety precautions are required? Thanks again!

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks for the reply! It does appear it's heat only. I'm looking into the MyPin TD4 to handle both heating and cooling as it will take the RTD sensor which is a lot more accurate. Options like the InkBird C206T (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N464JQ8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) or the baylite controller (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KMA6EAM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) are interesting but they are likely to overshoot.

To address your second question, one heatstick is not protected as it cannot be controlled if there's a GFCI in between the controller and the heatstick. The wall outlet that powers the controller is protected. You think further safety precautions are required? Thanks again!

The GFCI wall outlet is sufficient protection for the non-GFCI heatstick.

Brew on

 

[Byrd]

The GFCI wall outlet is sufficient protection for the non-GFCI heatstick.

Brew on

Thank you!

I'm looking at simplifying my box and I was hoping to use something like a switched plug that's all in one nice package to power each heating element and to power the PID. (like so: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10A-120V-In...885347?hash=item25cfe81ca3:g:DoMAAOSw~AVYqhWi)

It says 10amps, do I need a 15amp plug/switch as my heating element is 1500watts ? I don't know what the PID draws but I'm sure I'm fine for that. Thanks in advance!

 

[doug293cz]

Thank you!

I'm looking at simplifying my box and I was hoping to use something like a switched plug that's all in one nice package to power each heating element and to power the PID. (like so: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10A-120V-In...885347?hash=item25cfe81ca3:g:DoMAAOSw~AVYqhWi)

It says 10amps, do I need a 15amp plug/switch as my heating element is 1500watts ? I don't know what the PID draws but I'm sure I'm fine for that. Thanks in advance!

Yes, you need switches rated at 15A @ 120V (or higher) for your elements. PID's draw less than 0.04A, so almost any switch will work for them.

Brew on