$112 Tri Clover RIMS Tube Pictures

[ScubaSteve]

I think I'm gonna do it. God help me if it breaks I think I'll restrict the flow into the chamber vs on the output so pressure can't build.

 

[Sawdustguy]

I think I'm gonna do it. God help me if it breaks I think I'll restrict the flow into the chamber vs on the output so pressure can't build.

You will be just fine. I know it's gonna look sharp! Here is a place that sells them for $75.00 with 1 1/2" triclovers: http://www.thevintnervault.com/index.php?p=view_product&product_id=1413 and they are a lot eqasier to deal with than St. Pats. I wish I would have seen those when I bought mine as I paid a little more.

 

[TheZer]

Sawdustguy, did you order from KLGstainless.com or KLG's ebay store? Or is there a difference?

 

[Sawdustguy]

Sawdustguy, did you order from KLGstainless.com or KLG's ebay store? Or is there a difference?

They have more stuff available at their brick and mortar than their Ebay store. I called Kevin, he quoted me the prices and I had him email me a paypal invoice.

 

[TheZer]

perfect, thanks

 

[ScubaSteve]

Guy-

What brand is your element? Does it have NPT or NPS threads? I'm ordering my sightglass and I wonder if I'll be okay threading a 4500-5500w LD element into a 1" FPT triclover adapter.

I've also considered buying a 1.5" FPT triclover adapter, then JB welding the element into a bushing. Then I could screw the element in/out as intended without worrying about damaging threads.

Alternatively (but it could be a PITA) I would buy a 2" triclover endcap and drill it out to 1". Then I could add the element with a weldless setup.

 

[Sawdustguy]

Guy-

What brand is your element? Does it have NPT or NPS threads? I'm ordering my sightglass and I wonder if I'll be okay threading a 4500-5500w LD element into a 1" FPT triclover adapter.

I've also considered buying a 1.5" FPT triclover adapter, then JB welding the element into a bushing. Then I could screw the element in/out as intended without worrying about damaging threads.

Alternatively (but it could be a PITA) I would buy a 2" triclover endcap and drill it out to 1". Then I could add the element with a weldless setup.

Steve,

My element has a 1" NPS thread so I purchased a 1.5" Tri-Clover to 1" NPT adapter. You simply need to make use of the washer that comes with the element. The NPS will thread into a NPT with no caveat.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Steve,

My element has a 1" NPS thread so I purchased a 1.5" Tri-Clover to 1" NPT adapter. You simply need to make use of the washer that comes with the element. The NPS will thread into a NPT with no caveat.

Oh. I thought it would be a case of grinding threads, etc. So you're saying the o-ring will provide a good seal if you can get it tight enough.

Good looking out...guess it's time to spend yet some more money. Man, it adds up, doesn't it?

 

[Sawdustguy]

Oh. I thought it would be a case of grinding threads, etc. So you're saying the o-ring will provide a good seal if you can get it tight enough.

Good looking out...guess it's time to spend yet some more money. Man, it adds up, doesn't it?

Sure does. When I posted my semi-automated rig Yuri Rage posted, "the fun has just begun" and by golly he was right. My wife has come to hate the words "modify" and "improve".

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

For future reference, in the BM parts page, Sabco has a heating element that is fitted for Tri-Clamp installation and removal.

Makes cleaning/inspection a TON easier.

As well as a full stainless RIMS chamber assembly.

 

[ScubaSteve]

It's nice, but it's another case of the build vs. buy discussion. I refuse to pay $179 for this, but someone else might pony up. This is essentially what I was describing by drilling out an end cap. The beauty of this is that you're not totally effed when the element fails....just drop in a new one.

 

[ScubaSteve]

So I just got a 5500W LD element and inserted it into the 1.5" triclover pipe....it definitely touches in several places, I don't think I can bend it away from the inner wall.

So why would this cause element failure? Overheating at the point of contact? I think it's too late to go with 2" pipe....I've already bought everything !

 

[wildwest450]

I refuse to pay $179 for this, but someone else might pony up.

I bet the element doesn't hit the sides in theirs.

Sorry ScubaSteve, it was to easy.

 

[thewurzel]

I was thinking of some thing similar

I am hoping this idea will give better flow over the output sensor

 

[ScubaSteve]

I bet the element doesn't hit the sides in theirs.

Sorry ScubaSteve, it was to easy.

It's all good.....Mines doesn't hit the sides now either A little elbow grease goes a long way......

 

[BierreNoix]

All

Thank you for sharing all the experience & R&D information you have invested in this project.

I was wondering how the system is working now that you have had some time on it.
Any key learnings ?
Do you find that the dead spaces at the ends of the tees are causing heating and or monitoring problems?

Would you recommend using the tees?

Many thanks

 

[pola0502ds]

Ditto to what Bierre said, I would like to hear some feedback.

 

[thewurzel]

I built mine as the diagram above. due to a rims tube i had before that the temp sensor wasn't in the flow very well. the other tri clamp T may work but i defiantly have a good flow over the temp sensor
The only thing is that i wish the heating element was a little furtherer into the main Tri clamp T. i belive this can now be achieved by using the new heating element fitting that Derrin is now selling. this maybe an upgrade for me in the near future, as it looks like it will also make it a waterproof housing.
http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

Overall though my rims tube does the job well.

 

[BierreNoix]

Wurz

Thanks for your feedback.

I found your design to be an interesting take on a rims tube. Good to hear that it is working well for you.

In regards to the element in your system....your tee is ~4" or so... plus the tri clover 1" fpt ~2"? How far into the tube do you estimate your element is?

I am guessing that your element is 7.75" or so?

Do you think that a 220V element would work in the single tee elbow combo? I am guessing that the longer 22v 5500W element might not fit in your tube.

Did you go all SS with the temp probe section?

I agree that Darrins element housing is looking sweet. Might have to pick that up when it is avalible.

Merci

Biereniox

 

[pola0502ds]

I actually have that element adapter on order from Derrin. I will post a review once it comes in.

Wurz, if you use Derrings adapter, it will allow you to have your element pushed more into the RIMS tube. If your element is to scale in the above picture it looks like it will move it an inch or 2.

 

[thewurzel]

My Drawing is pretty much to Scale. I originally drew it up in autocad. ( but it was before i had all the pieces and was designing it) so the actual sizes may vary a little.

looking at my drawing. using Derrins adapter it looks like it may put it up to another 1.5" into the flow. which would defiantly help.

I will have to check all dimensions and post when i get home from work.

 

[thewurzel]

This drawing is to scale

A. shows the setup i am using at the moment.

B. shows it with the heating element in Derrins adapter showing approximately 1/2" to where the element tightens up to.

Wurz

Do you think that a 220V element would work in the single tee elbow combo? I am guessing that the longer 22v 5500W element might not fit in your tube.

Did you go all SS with the temp probe section?

I belive the 220vac heating element is a lot longer than the 110v and would not work in this situation.

Yes i did go with all SS on the probe outlet Side.

 

[pola0502ds]

What kinda fasteners did u use to on the tee? Those look like they work well

 

[thewurzel]

What kinda fasteners did u use to on the tee? Those look like they work well

They are for 1.5" electrical conduit. apparently you can get them in SS to if you go to an electrical supply store. mine are just galvanized from a job site.
been searching for a while tried all plumbing sizes nothing fit that well had to put spacers in.

 

[pola0502ds]

Do those fasteners allow you to easily remove the tubing to clean it? Thats what I'm really after.

Is your temp probe threaded into a bushing?

 

[thewurzel]

Do those fasteners allow you to easily remove the tubing to clean it? Thats what I'm really after.

Is your temp probe threaded into a bushing?

Yes those clips will let you easily remove it for cleaning.
They are just regular steal clips with a bolt on top they are not sprung steal of any kind. they are meant to be put on a conduit and not removed.
The clips do bend on and off the rims tube with ease.

They will wear out and break with constant taking tube in and out.
but I do expect it to last a while and the clips are ready available at home depot I am told, for only a bucks or 2 each.

The Temp probe I use is a type K Liquid Tight, which threads straight into a 1/2" SS Tea, which fits the Auber Instruments PID controllers
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=165&zenid=5cb5793c5d7d0bc8e40880dcbd6dded9

you might want to check out Sawdustguys other thread

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-dummies-114997/

 

[pola0502ds]

I have been following his thread, that is what inspired me to make my rims tube. see below for pics.

I used u bolts to hold my rims tube down but they don't work that well. My tube is top heavy so it always wants to rotate down but I think i figured out a solution. If i can find some rubber I will put it between the rims tube and the u bolts which will create friction and in the end preventing the tube from rotating down. Regardless, I should come up with a different method for ease of disconnecting and cleaning. Right now it's going to be a main to remove it.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I have been following his thread, that is what inspired me to make my rims tube. see below for pics.

I used u bolts to hold my rims tube down but they don't work that well. My tube is top heavy so it always wants to rotate down but I think i figured out a solution. If i can find some rubber I will put it between the rims tube and the u bolts which will create friction and in the end preventing the tube from rotating down. Regardless, I should come up with a different method for ease of disconnecting and cleaning. Right now it's going to be a main to remove it.

If you slide about 3" of silicone tubing over the u-bolt, you should be good to go. Wing nuts will make it easier to remove.

Ed

 

[pola0502ds]

Thanks ed! I do have some silicone hose left over so i can use that.

 

[thewurzel]

I have been following his thread, that is what inspired me to make my rims tube. see below for pics.

Looks Interesting Derrins rims Tube with sight glass. Nice
Do you use a 220VAC element in there as its long enough?

Your Therminator also Looks Interesting. Care to share?

I"m sure the clamp that i use would also fit your tubing.