10 vs 15 gallon ebiab kettle

[jwalkermed]

Hey folks, I'm moving to eBIAB and am looking at a 10 vs 15 gallon kettles. I'm doing 5 gallon batches right now and will not do any larger in the foreseeable future. Really I'm looking to do more 2-3 gallon batches because I like more variety and I don't drink enough to keep up w/ my brewing.

My main question is will a 15 gallon eBIAB make doing 2.5 gallon batches difficult to the large size of the kettle? Any drawbacks to this?

I think a 10 gallon kettle should be able to handle most 5 gallon batches excluding really high gravity stuff which I don't plan to do often. Could always supplement with DME as needed I suppose.

Thanks for any feedback

 

[Seven]

If you are sure you only plan to do 2 to 5 gallon batches and not much high gravity stuff then I would go with the 10-gallon kettle. If you think you'll do many high gravity beers then I would get the 15-gallon kettle, though this doesn't sound like the case from what you've described.

 

[enkamania]

I started with a 10 gallon, but eventually bought a 15 gallon.

 

[StLouBrew]

Greetings... a few weeks ago, I posed pretty much the same question in this thread:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/new-all-grain-brew-kettle-recommendation-needed-498793/

The only difference is I wasn't asking specifically about BIAB. The predominant advice (which I heeded) was bigger is better and I went with a 15 gal Polar Ware kettle. Even if you're only going to do 5 gal batches, if you have to move full boil volumes of hot wort around, the extra capacity is nice and may possible prevent a scalding.

Cheers:

 

[BrewinBromanite]

I do 5.5-6 gal batches using a 10.5 gal kettle, and have on a couple occasions had a boil over when I wasn't paying attention. With an electric system, I'd personally go with the 15 gal. Even if doing smaller batches, you could comfortably brew a 5-6 gal batch without worry of any boil overs, and split the batches to do different dry hops, different yeasts, etc. from the same wort.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[jwalkermed]

What I'm specifically worried about is with a 15 gallon kettle the pot being too big to do 2.5 gallon batches. If I have a heating element at the bottom, combined with the small volume of liquid/grain/bag etc.... could this cause issues?

I agree on the 15gal but if it's going to cause issues with small batches specifically in a eBIAB setup I don't want to go there.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I agree on the 15gal but if it's going to cause issues with small batches specifically in a eBIAB setup I don't want to go there.

This gets a little tricky, with say 3" below the FB in a 15 G kettle is about 2.5 gallons dead space....obviously that doesn't really work for 2-3 gallon batches. Even a 10 gallon will have considerable dead space below the FB. Obviously you need to minimize the dead space volume....

Tricky....

 

[jwalkermed]

do you have to use a FB? From what I understand if you use an ultra low density element you don't really have to worry about the bag melting etc... I guess one issues could be the weight of grain on the element?

 

[Twang]

Not sure if this helps but in the system I am planning I will minimize the dead space below the false bottom by using a blichman boil coil and a custom basket.
The boil coil wraps around the outer edge of the kettle so my plan is to have a stainless mesh basket created that steps down to a smaller diameter that fits into the would be dead space.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Not sure if this helps but in the system I am planning I will minimize the dead space below the false bottom by using a blichman boil coil and a custom basket.
The boil coil wraps around the outer edge of the kettle so my plan is to have a stainless mesh basket created that steps down to a smaller diameter that fits into the would be dead space.

Wow, can't wait to see this Twang...your project seems well funded


Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/

 

[wilserbrewer]

do you have to use a FB? From what I understand if you use an ultra low density element you don't really have to worry about the bag melting etc... I guess one issues could be the weight of grain on the element?

Success Not using a false bottom or basket, and firing the element seems spotty, I heard reports of some not using one with "limited success".
I think one poster had success, then later got bitten and scorched the bag.

The weight of the grain is not a problem, as the grain bag is fluid and conforms around the element, doesn't really sit on the element.



Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/

 

[jwalkermed]

Not sure if this helps but in the system I am planning I will minimize the dead space below the false bottom by using a blichman boil coil and a custom basket.
The boil coil wraps around the outer edge of the kettle so my plan is to have a stainless mesh basket created that steps down to a smaller diameter that fits into the would be dead space.

I like this idea. My only issue is I am going to go with welded tri clover not weldless.

 

[jwalkermed]

Success Not using a false bottom or basket, and firing the element seems spotty, I heard reports of some not using one with "limited success".
I think one poster had success, then later got bitten and scorched the bag.


Http://biabbags.webs.com/

Read a thread over here. Seems like the key is a slow recirculation rate. Funny how the harder we try to simplify things the more complex they become. I may just have to dive in and work out the kinks as I go. Thanks for the comments.

 

[Renoun]

Success Not using a false bottom or basket, and firing the element seems spotty, I heard reports of some not using one with "limited success".
I think one poster had success, then later got bitten and scorched the bag.

Perhaps this discussion should differentiate between a false bottom (like one would install in a more traditional mash tun) and a element guard which doesn't have any role in lautering. As I see it an element guard only serves to prevent contact between the grain bag, hop sock, or immersion chiller and the heating elements.

Since an element guard does't have to allow for the creation of a grain bed that allows wort to run off it doesn't have to span the entire bottom and create a large amount of dead space. I doesn't require elaborate machining to filter grain and precisely fit the kettle either, just larger holes or slots to allow heated wort to circulate. I envision more of an inverted gutter or trough fabricated out of sheet metal (likely stainless) that can be fabricated with hand tools since less precise machining tolerances are required.

I haven't started converting to an electric kettle yet. Is this a concept worth exploring?

Five gallon batches in my 16gal Bayou Classic kettle are all I have done but I'm not sure that two and a half would be worthwhile. I'd probably be putting one of our smaller stock pots on the stove top at that point.

 

[jwalkermed]

Since an element guard does't have to allow for the creation of a grain bed that allows wort to run off it doesn't have to span the entire bottom and create a large amount of dead space. I doesn't require elaborate machining to filter grain and precisely fit the kettle either, just larger holes or slots to allow heated wort to circulate. I envision more of an inverted gutter or trough fabricated out of sheet metal (likely stainless) that can be fabricated with hand tools since less precise machining tolerances are required.

I think that would be something to try. Maybe a piece of SS with swiss cheese holes punched in it. Just have to find someone to make it.

Or now that I've looked into it seems like such a complex problem. Maybe I'll just use the water for heating and not recirculating to hold the mash a temp. I can probably live w/ a couple degrees of heat loss. Just wanted a repeatable proces..

 

[Twang]

I think that would be something to try. Maybe a piece of SS with swiss cheese holes punched in it. Just have to find someone to make it.



Or now that I've looked into it seems like such a complex problem. Maybe I'll just use the water for heating and not recirculating to hold the mash a temp. I can probably live w/ a couple degrees of heat loss. Just wanted a repeatable proces..

Im sure arbor fabrication can make it for you. http://arborfab.com

 

[wilserbrewer]

element guard??? Stainless mesh or screen rolled around the element perhaps?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-x12-Stai...343?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51ba8f09ef

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48-Wide-1-2...436?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d26fe14ac

or the price performer aluminum sheet, $0.62 at home depot
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...17443661162790126028,pid:17443661162790126028

 

[Renoun]

element guard??? Stainless mesh or screen rolled around the element perhaps?

I like the idea of a rolled guard if the element is easily removed for cleaning. A rolled guard would be easier to fabricate than multiple bends and also allow for the use of lighter sheet stock. If the element is fixed in place an inverted gutter might be a better option when it comes time to clean everything after brewing.

I'd probably just run on down to Online Metals and ask the guys at the counter if there were any off cuts of perforated stainless sheet they could give me a deal on. They sell both perforated SS sheet and several other grades of SS sheet.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Perhaps a 2 or 3 inch diameter expanded coil made from heavy gauge wire like a spring, slipped over the element would likely work well. Stainless, or even a piece of copper scrap.


Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/

 

[wilserbrewer]

I'd probably just run on down to Online Metals

Wow, $20 for a 12" x !2" perforated SS. I'd check the dumpster....