You shouldn't get any soot with propane and the 10 tip burners at about 4" below your pots. I get some soot from the pilots if I overcrank them but no soot whatsoever from the burners at 4". May be different with NG.
10-tip multi jet burners. Has anyone found a source?
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I'm thinking of getting a 10 tip for my brew kettle and hooking it to natural gas. Is anyone getting the crazy, way too hot flame that many people report with the 23 tip? Do you guys like the performance (heat and flame control) with the 10 tip hooked to NG?
OP
OP
Flame control is difficult no matter how many tips you have. I'd be looking at the Hurricane burner if I were you.
I purchased these burners (10 tip NG) from ShoppersChoice before seeing this thread. I have hooked one up so far (have 3) on my new stand. They have a ton of heat! They are 70,000 BTU. I have them mounted 5 1/4" below the bottom of the pot and the flame on full open is 7-8" above where the bottom of the pot would sit. I haven't tried it with the pot on it yet as I have a mod needed on the new stand. Here's a bad pic but a pic non the less.
Hmmm. Just gave it a test with the 10 gallon Blichmann pot.
Took 47 minutes to reach my average strike temp of 165*
Took a total of 66 minutes to reach 190*
Total of 76 minutes to hit 200*
and 92 minutes to reach boil.
I'm so discouraged. I could bring 15 gallons of water to a boil with my old ghetto system and it takes over an hour and a half to boil 8 gallons???
I noticed that the sound of the burner was about half of what it was when the pot was not on the stand. Double checked this after the test was over and sure enough, loud and kicking with no pot on. I also checked the regulator and screwed the adjustment screw all the in to close. No change and the flame kept right on burning.
What gives?
This about as radical as the boil got 15 minutes after reaching the boiling point.
This handle was so hot you couldn't leave your hand on it.
Wind guard all blued out now. Should it be further down completely covering the burner?
What gives? It's like it's too hot but not boiling the water as quickly and vigorously as the heat it produces would indicate.
Took 47 minutes to reach my average strike temp of 165*
Took a total of 66 minutes to reach 190*
Total of 76 minutes to hit 200*
and 92 minutes to reach boil.
I'm so discouraged. I could bring 15 gallons of water to a boil with my old ghetto system and it takes over an hour and a half to boil 8 gallons???
I noticed that the sound of the burner was about half of what it was when the pot was not on the stand. Double checked this after the test was over and sure enough, loud and kicking with no pot on. I also checked the regulator and screwed the adjustment screw all the in to close. No change and the flame kept right on burning.
What gives?
This about as radical as the boil got 15 minutes after reaching the boiling point.
This handle was so hot you couldn't leave your hand on it.
Wind guard all blued out now. Should it be further down completely covering the burner?
What gives? It's like it's too hot but not boiling the water as quickly and vigorously as the heat it produces would indicate.
Sawdustguy
Well-Known Member
Lonnie of Brutus 10 fame swears by them.......He mounts them about 2.0" under the kettle. It sounds like yours may be mounted too far from the kettle.
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Thanks. Do you know if the video ever got posted?
Sawdustguy
Well-Known Member
I never checked. Check his website. Maybe they are posted on his website or shoot him a PM. You have a nice blue flame. I bet if you move the burner closer to the kettle your problem will be solved.
Found his on youtube and watching parts 1 and 2 now.
Yeah something is wrong. That's way too long to reach boil. From the pic, it looks like you are mounting the burners too low. Mine is 4" from the bottom of the pot (i.e. the top most horizontal plane of the frame) to the top of the ring, so the tips are even closer.
You may also have a gas leak but that's less likely. These castings are very porous, you may want to snoop everything with the gas on but without the flame lit.
Another possibility is the flashing/shields you have in place. I took mine out because they inhibited the flame a bit. Enough to be an issue.
You may also have a gas leak but that's less likely. These castings are very porous, you may want to snoop everything with the gas on but without the flame lit.
Another possibility is the flashing/shields you have in place. I took mine out because they inhibited the flame a bit. Enough to be an issue.
Checked for leaks all over including the gas built in beam. Nothing so far. My jet did all come loose after the test was done. I noticed during the test the began to leak at the base. After they cooled down I checked them. I could turn every one with my fingers. So I snugged them all back down with the wrench.
I am thinking of this so far:
1. Instead of a table top, add just a plate on the front to take the place of the heat shields that Blichmann provides (ORANGE area below).
2. Lower the existing wind shields down about 3 inches.
3. Install either SS tube like Chris' for the kettle to sit on (one from each side BLUE below) or weld some smaller diameter SS tubes across the main frame to lift the pot up some and stabilize their sitting area (YELLOW below.
4. Raise the burners.
What are your thoughts?
I am thinking of this so far:
1. Instead of a table top, add just a plate on the front to take the place of the heat shields that Blichmann provides (ORANGE area below).
2. Lower the existing wind shields down about 3 inches.
3. Install either SS tube like Chris' for the kettle to sit on (one from each side BLUE below) or weld some smaller diameter SS tubes across the main frame to lift the pot up some and stabilize their sitting area (YELLOW below.
4. Raise the burners.
What are your thoughts?
Start by removing all the shields, even the Blichmann orange ones and repeat the test with your current height. Once you have this data, you'll know where you need to go.
I use no shields whatsoever. With the frame, you don't need to protect the ball valve as the front member does that for you by default. Like I said before, I removed my heat shields as they were causing more problems then they were worth. Don't overthink it and try to change only one variable at a time.
I use no shields whatsoever. With the frame, you don't need to protect the ball valve as the front member does that for you by default. Like I said before, I removed my heat shields as they were causing more problems then they were worth. Don't overthink it and try to change only one variable at a time.
Thanks. Doing that and should have it back this evening. Will test at current burner height and post resluts on this thread.
Gumbydude
Well-Known Member
What were the results of your testing?
Link to the results are in my previous post.
I have read this entire thread and now I am very confused and I have not even started drinking yet. I had the gas company out here today to install new leads from my 100 gallon home tank. I am tired of filling 20lb tanks. The guy told me I would need low pressure burners. I want to get a jet burner like discussed here. But I need a stand and the mounting info. I have seen the burners but not stands. Would some one kindly point me in the right direction. I just need a complete list of items I need. I greatly appreciate the help. The gas company is going to give me 2 quick disconnects so I can hook up 2 at the same time and give me the hoses as well. Thank you so much folks!
Tom
Tom
