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10 gallon BIAB with external 120v RIMS.

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I just bought a cheap p38i pump and did my first ever BIAB with recirculation.Didnt go well.The little 1.7 GPM would fill up the 7" of head space to the top of the bag/basket.I needed to keep unplugging it to let the bag drain and balance out with the wort outside the bag...Don't know what Im going to do.Bit of a bummer

I modified my basket to help with the overflow issue. Also I plan to make spacers to attach to the basket rim so that when I put the basket in the kettle they create a small gap between the basket rim and the kettle ridge it rests on. That way if the level gets too high it falls right back down the wall of the kettle.

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Power equals voltage squared divided by resistance. Thus, for a given load (heating element) the power consumed varies with the square of the voltage. Doubling the voltage provides 2 squared, or 4, times the power. Halving the voltage provides 1/2 squared, or 1/4, times the power.
 
As per one of my earlier posts, I grew tired of disconnecting and reconnecting hoses throughout the brewing process and spilling wort all over the place so I upgraded my brewing platform with three-way valves to eliminate the issue.

I installed a three-way on the outlet of my pump so that I easily route the flow to my RIMS tube (during the mash) or my chiller (after the boil).

I also installed a three-way on the outlet of my chiller so I can easily route the output to the my kettle (for recirculating during chilling) or a fermenter (when chilling is complete).

The output of my RIMS tube is always back to the kettle via a weldless port in the kettle lid. There's a second weldless port in the lid as well to receive the flow from the chiller (when recirculating during chilling).

I haven't tested it yet but I'm planning a brew for next weekend. Ideally I should be able to set up my platform and connect all hoses before the brew, then only have to operate valves as the brewing process unfolds.

Future considerations still include the addition of a hopback--though I'm starting to feel like "whirlpooling is the new hopbacking" and maybe I don't need it--and the possibility of hard plumbing the connections between the pump, RIMS tube and chiller.

I'd love to be able to label my hoses as I measured them all so that they made their connections over the shortest distance possible without kinking. I tried a Sharpie today but I can see it will just rub off. Some sort of waterproof tag might work if attached to the camlocks. Has anyone else found a solution for this?

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I may steal the 3 way valve idea. I have a new system on the way and I was concerned about changing hoses.
 
I may steal the 3 way valve idea. I have a new system on the way and I was concerned about changing hoses.

The 3 way valves are the way to go... Ive been using them myself. I mounted mine onto the rims though in an attempt to minimize wasted wort sitting in hoses. It eliminated having to move any lines or hoses around in the brewing process.

also I would be careful about any 3 way valves on the cold side of the chiller since they hold and release liquid trapped inside whenever they valve position is changed making it a potential place for infections to hide and start. (even more so than a smaller ball valve.)
 
I agree. I understand the three way's purpose there but you are asking for trouble. If you want to use it, I would put a camlock or other QD between the PC and the valve. This would allow you to remove the valve and sanitize it separately. Alternatively, while running boiling wort through it before chilling, cycle the valves in both directions returning the boiling wort to the kettle. So slowly so as the capture the liquid that hides in the body of the valve ("behind the ball").
 
robcj,

I am very close to putting this system together for myself.. I'm still undecided on the method of wort return. I have a Brewhardware "Spincycle" whirlpool installed and may see if I can tuck the bag under it and fold around it at the top. May be hard to untuck it and remove the bag after mashing. My bag will sit on a false bottom from Brewhardware https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/biabbottom17.htm I am also looking at running a Blichmann RIMS Rocket 240v on 120v or Brewhardware RIMS tube 5500w 240v at 120v. I would be interested to know how you have liked this setup now that you have had it for a while. Have you made any tweaks or improvements?
 
robcj,

I am very close to putting this system together for myself.. I'm still undecided on the method of wort return. I have a Brewhardware "Spincycle" whirlpool installed and may see if I can tuck the bag under it and fold around it at the top. May be hard to untuck it and remove the bag after mashing. My bag will sit on a false bottom from Brewhardware https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/biabbottom17.htm I am also looking at running a Blichmann RIMS Rocket 240v on 120v or Brewhardware RIMS tube 5500w 240v at 120v. I would be interested to know how you have liked this setup now that you have had it for a while. Have you made any tweaks or improvements?

Connecting some dots here, but the only reason I can think of for tucking the bag under the Spincycle would be to use it during the mash. Why would you want to use this device during the mash?
 
Connecting some dots here, but the only reason I can think of for tucking the bag under the Spincycle would be to use it during the mash. Why would you want to use this device during the mash?
I need to return the wort for recirculating somewhere and I have this piece already installed so I thought maybe it would work. I believe Colorado Brewing Systems uses this setup with a basket rather than a bag. I was hoping not to drill another port for say a lock line return or floating hose. I thought about trying to put the whirlpool on a cam lock setup in the pot put it just puts it to far into the pot.
 
I need to return the wort for recirculating somewhere and I have this piece already installed so I thought maybe it would work. I believe Colorado Brewing Systems uses this setup with a basket rather than a bag. I was hoping not to drill another port for say a lock line return or floating hose. I thought about trying to put the whirlpool on a cam lock setup in the pot put it just puts it to far into the pot.

Generally speaking, the intent of recirculating the wort is to move it through the grain bed from top to bottom, or vice versa in some systems with a "malt pipe". Other systems take the approach of agitating the crap out of the grain bed with the force of the wort return. Any approach you choose to take has two main goals in mind. One, it maintains a consistent temperature across the grain bed. Two, it helps ensure a homogeneous mixture in terms of sugar concentration. It serves the same purpose as stirring the grains.

If you return the entire wort recirculation to the bottom of the kettle through a whirlpool apparatus you're short circuiting the grain bed, essentially minimizing, maybe eliminating, the benefits of the two goals mentioned above.

Edit: Forgot to ask, War Eagle or Roll Tide? I'm a native of the great state of Alabama, raised in an Auburn household, but went to GA Tech. I cheer for the Tide unless they're playing Auburn.
 
Generally speaking, the intent of recirculating the wort is to move it through the grain bed from top to bottom, or vice versa in some systems with a "malt pipe". Other systems take the approach of agitating the crap out of the grain bed with the force of the wort return. Any approach you choose to take has two main goals in mind. One, it maintains a consistent temperature across the grain bed. Two, it helps ensure a homogeneous mixture in terms of sugar concentration. It serves the same purpose as stirring the grains.


If you return the entire wort recirculation to the bottom of the kettle through a whirlpool apparatus you're short circuiting the grain bed, essentially minimizing, maybe eliminating, the benefits of the two goals mentioned above.

Edit: Forgot to ask, War Eagle or Roll Tide? I'm a native of the great state of Alabama, raised in an Auburn household, but went to GA Tech. I cheer for the Tide unless they're playing Auburn.


If you return the entire wort recirculation to the bottom of the kettle through a whirlpool apparatus you're short circuiting the grain bed
Just for clarification, the Spincyle Whirlpool would be in the bag. I can get it under it and pull the bag up to the top of the kettle prior to adding grains, just might not to be able to get it back out with grains in the bag; I would have to unscrew the Spincycle probably which I wouldn't wont to do.

I read somewhere on this forum where someone was doing it that way so I guess I was hoping maybe I missed something. I should probably just install another port for re-circulation return (preferably not in the lid). I suppose cap off the Spincycle and use that hose to attach to a mash re-circulation port; when done mashing, remove sparge device and use cap from Spincycle and then swap the hose over to the Spincycle to use after boil and use cap on sparge port. So many opinions on how to return the wort out there; I just can't figure out which to use.

I graduated from Alabama--"ROLL TIDE"
 
This is pretty close to what I want to do with my system. Similar reasons, I live in CO and in the winter even in the garage a Ski jacket and insulation really are not enough. It takes one less factor out of the equation when trouble shooting. couple quick questions.

Is that the Auber BIAB controller they have on their website? Any issues with it or is it everything you need? I am torn between that and a bigger controller that can have the pump and more on it.

Also, I would like to do some step mashes for grain bills with more unmalted grains like when I make sours. Do you think a step mash would be possible with just the 120v rims or not enough juice to get it done? 5 or 10 gallons. If you think only 5 I could do smaller batches.

Where do you return the wort when recirulating the mash? To the top of the bag or bottom of the kettle? Any issues with the bag getting knotted up or not allowing flow like others in the BIAB section complain about with recirculation.
 
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