10# CO2 filled this morning, exploded in my living room.

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Tom R

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Maybe attach the regulator before loading into vehicle, and checking tank pressure?

A new tank swap from my LHBS is around 800PSI, and the burst disc appears to be 3000PSI. Gauge redlines at 1800PSI, so there should be plenty of indication something is amiss, right?
 
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Barbarossa

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They should have a tare weight stamped into them.
Mine has it. And I sure damn well weighted it when I got back home. I might even buy the anvil scale for that purpose. Will also help with weighting grain and closed transfers.
 

day_trippr

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Typical cga 320 valve, the burst disc module is the thing threaded in on the left...


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Cheers!
 

Gusso

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I wonder if my burst disc failed on a tank I had a couple of months back. I just bought a new kegerator, I was meticulously weighing the tank, checking for leaks. After a week on the scale, I removed it. Everything was fine for a few weeks until I noticed frost on the upper tank towards the regulator. I then noticed that the tank was empty. Originally, I just figured I didn't connect the tank right or I had a leak. But it was perfect for a few weeks prior.
 

AngusMacDuff

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My keezer is in the garage with the CO2 cylinder inside. To make room for more kegs, I am planning to mount the 10# cylinder on the wall next to the keezer. I'm in Ohio and the garage temperature might get to 90F. The temperature-pressure charts indicate this should be no problem. I would appreciate comments and suggestions.
 

chessking

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This burst disc of witch you speak. Is it a fail/ no fail part? Or is it like a relief valve that vents over pressure, then seals back up?
I guess what I'm asking is , is it a relief valve when it works correctly, and blows when it fails, or is it only sealed or blown. I just assumed it was a relief valve and was never sure if it ever worked, but if it blows and must be replaced, then I guess it must be working.
 
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Barbarossa

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This burst disc of witch you speak. Is it a fail/ no fail part? Or is it like a relief valve that vents over pressure, then seals back up?
When I got back to the shop, they unscrewed it and showed it to me. There's a kind of three ply disk inside that hold up pressure. This disk got destroyed. They replaced it and put the screw back, then charged me 8$(Canadian monopoly money) for the disk but didn't charge me for the filling of the tank.

They tried to tell me that if it fails because they overfilled, it would fail in the first hour. I have doubts about that statement.
 

Boobajoob

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I used to own a paintball shop and filled cylinders regularly. If you overfill the tank there's a good chance with any temp change or shaking/moving the burst can go. I've even seen properly filled tanks burst because people have left them in the back car window on a hot day in the sun.

This is why when filling a tank you need to chill it first. I'd add some CO2 then vent it out to insta-chill the tank, but the best method is to put it in the freezer for several hours to chill everything evenly then fill it from that temp. If you're filling with food grade CO2, they'll probably chill them via freezer to save the wasted gas.

Anyway, don't sweat it. Your tank is most likely fine. Burst disks are cheap and easy to replace and in this case it did exactly the job it was supposed to do. Have them replace it, chill, refill, then enjoy your tank as usual.

[edit] just seeing you already had it replaced. It's a shame they didn't want to admit the overfilled, but that's what must have happened. Especially if you didn't leave it near any heat source or shook it violently or anything.
 
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