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1-Gallon Fermentation Question

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JeffoC6

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Hey all...

Here's the deal. I'm exclusively only doing 1-gallon batches at this time, and don't have any plans on expanding to 5-gallons until we sell our condo and buy a home, which isn't anytime soon.

Now, I have a hydrometer, but I haven't used it yet. I've read here and there that when doing 1-gallon batches, you really don't have to worry all that much about taking hydrometer readings before bottling, as long as you primary ferment for 3-4 weeks.

I want to confirm that this is true. At this time, I really don't want to start doing hydrometer readings if they simply aren't necessary. Because I'm only doing 1-gallon batches, the more hydrometer readings I take, the more beer I lose, and even if I find a way to successfully dump it back in, I run the risk of exposing it to oxygen/infection.

The question is this...If I'm doing a 3 week primary for all of my beers, can I simply forget about taking hydrometer readings before bottling? Is this the case with all beers that I choose to brew?

Thanks for your help...
 
Why not sanitize the hydrometer, put it in the fermenter to take a reading, and then take it back out?
 
i would never say that it's not important to take hydro readings, but i was just discussing this over dinner. i have a 1 gal batch made from 2nd runnings that i'd rather not lose any to hydro readings, so i'm going with the method you stated, wait a month, then bottle. i think you have to make sure you pitch enough yeast, aerate well and ferment at the proper temps, and you'll be fine. not that i would do this with 99.5% of my batches, but with this one gal batch, i'm gonna rely on my process and the yeast to have me at FG when i bottle.
you could also use a refractometer for gravity readings since you always do 1 gal batches.
you only need a drop with a refractometer, and there's online calculators that can adjust the reading when alcohol is present. that's what i'd suggest in your situation.
 
You might consider getting a refractometer instead of a hydrometer. You only need a couple of drops to measure the gravity.

with fermented beer you need to do some sort of calculation to account for the alcohol. i think.
 
I tend not to take hydrometer readings, both with my one gallon batches and with the larger batches, but I really should. It's hard to know if you are having problems with the beer properly drying out without taking hydrometer readings (or refractometer readings). But yes, if you will leave your beer for a sufficient amount of time it will reach terminal gravity whether it is the "right" gravity or not.
 
3 ways to handle this but first off

DON'T POUR THE BEER YOU USED FOR HYDROMETER READING BACK IN THE FERMENTOR!

This is MHO but, hydrometer readings are really only taken for information. Mostly for bragging rights as to whose beer attenuated the most. But other than that, it doesn't matter unless you are maybe adding fruit and want to add it at a certain attenuation level. So put your beer in the fermentor add the yeast and let it sit 2-4 weeks. Beer will be made and it will be damnn close to what you wanted as long as you followed the recipe.

Second, like pabloj13 said, you can sanitize the hydrometer and drop it straight into the fermentor. It may be a little difficult to read because of the krausen or yeast sitting on top.

Lastly, you could use a refractometer.
 
I can't imagine doing a 4-5 hour brewday for a 1 gallon batch. I can't imagine waiting like a kid at Christmas for fermentation, bottling, conditioning, and carbing to yeild less than a 12 pack.

I drink about 2 pints an hour on any given weekend, so that's 4-5 hours of brewing for something that's going to take me about 4 hours to drink. Seems mighty inequitable. God forbid if I want to share a few.

Just out of curiosity, why couldn't you pull off a 2-3 gallon batch in a condo? Slightly larger pot, and storage of a few more bottles is all it would take.

My buddy lives in a condo, and his SWMBO allows him a small "brew closet" where he has about 150 bottles worth of beer in various stages of carbonation and conditioning at any given time, along with all of his 5 gallon stovetop equipment.

Maybe time to ask for a brew closet?
 
This is MHO but, hydrometer readings are really only taken for information. Mostly for bragging rights as to whose beer attenuated the most. But other than that, it doesn't matter unless you are maybe adding fruit and want to add it at a certain attenuation level. So put your beer in the fermentor add the yeast and let it sit 2-4 weeks. Beer will be made and it will be damnn close to what you wanted as long as you followed the recipe.
.

ok, i see where you're coming from on this, but.... i think it's important to know that the FG (regardless of what it is) is stable before packaging a beer. especially when bottling. i know stuck ferments and such are rare (i've never had one) and that 99 times out of a hundred, leaving your beer for 3 or more weeks will get you a stable FG, but i'd hate to bottle that one batch that wasn't stable.... BOOM!
as for the bolded line, WTF, really? are there guys going around with puffy chests saying "i've got a 9" schlong and my beer attenuated to 1.007!"? that'd be something to see. :ban:
 
I can't imagine doing a 4-5 hour brewday for a 1 gallon batch. I can't imagine waiting like a kid at Christmas for fermentation, bottling, conditioning, and carbing to yeild less than a 12 pack.

I drink about 2 pints an hour on any given weekend, so that's 4-5 hours of brewing for something that's going to take me about 4 hours to drink. Seems mighty inequitable. God forbid if I want to share a few.

Just out of curiosity, why couldn't you pull off a 2-3 gallon batch in a condo? Slightly larger pot, and storage of a few more bottles is all it would take.

My buddy lives in a condo, and his SWMBO allows him a small "brew closet" where he has about 150 bottles worth of beer in various stages of carbonation and conditioning at any given time, along with all of his 5 gallon stovetop equipment.

Maybe time to ask for a brew closet?

Because I don't drink 2 pints an hour...Ever. I have about 3-4 beers on Friday and 3-4 beers on Saturday. Our condo is for sale, which means, it's been completely cleaned out and de-personalized. That way, when people come to see it, it's neutral. While I do have the room to increase my capacity, it's not feasible at this time due to extenuating circumstances.
 
You don't have to drink a lot of beer to enjoy the fun of making it, I guess ... :)
I am going to brew a couple 1.5 gal test batches myself. I will always take gravity readings before and after, if anything, for the information. I have an Ale that has been bubbling since Jan 11th at 16C. It went from 1061 down to 1020 a week ago... today it was 1016. I couldn't think of a better way to welcome potential buyers into your house than with an exploding 1 gal bottle of beer... joke of course. Sucks, but I would never risk it. I will always take a gravity reading.
 
I do 1 gallon batches because I live in a studio, and my kitchen space is rather tight. I try to take a gravity reading when I put the wort into the fermenter, and another when I bottle. I think it's important to keep track of data like that because you can hopefully use it to troubleshoot problems, or figure why one particular beer turned out great, and then replicate. But being a scientist, I'm kind of conditioned to collect data so....

You're right though OP, I don't take weekly gravity readings in the fermenter because I don't want to lose any more beer than I have to. I also don't see much reason to risk infection, when I can just give the beer enough time in primary to ensure the yeast do their work. The only hitch is diagnosing a stuck fermentation, but that's a risk I'm willing to take right now.
 
Calichusetts what model/brand is your refractometer? I'm in the same boat; strictly doing 1 gal batches and Im not taking any readings. But I got a process, 3 weeks in primary then bottle. But I would like to know my ABV%.
 
I am the same way Mark...I hardly use my refractometer (only for a new style, new equipment/method, or lagering) and I generally just leave the beer for a month then dry hop then bottle, but this refractometer is great (or anything like it):

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/home...hydrometers/sugar-refractometer-with-atc.html

You can get them with SG but conversion from brix to gravity points is insanely simple so I'll save the $10
 
+1 on the refractometer. Easy to use, a drop or two is all that is needed and as mentioned already, plenty of ways to do the calc when alcohol is present. The best being at Sean Terrills web site -he's done some tests recently and came up with a better curve fit.
 
Tape a long piece of thread to the top of the hydrometer, dip it in your fermenter, let it bob until it settles, remove hydrometer. Done. No wasted beer. Just make sure to wash it well and sterilize prior to use. If you're worried about the tape coming loose, use two pieces. It wont sink either.. so getting it out if it does fall off wont be too much of a hassle.

With that said, i think hydrometer readings are very useful. Wouldnt you like to know your abv? Wouldnt you like to know if you need to add amylase or more yeast to ferment it lower? Wouldnt you like to keep a record of it so the next time you brew the same beer you know what to expect/shoot for?
 
Tape a long piece of thread to the top of the hydrometer, dip it in your fermenter, let it bob until it settles, remove hydrometer. Done. No wasted beer. Just make sure to wash it well and sterilize prior to use. If you're worried about the tape coming loose, use two pieces. It wont sink either.. so getting it out if it does fall off wont be too much of a hassle.

With that said, i think hydrometer readings are very useful. Wouldnt you like to know your abv? Wouldnt you like to know if you need to add amylase or more yeast to ferment it lower? Wouldnt you like to keep a record of it so the next time you brew the same beer you know what to expect/shoot for?

Yeah I have done it with a really tight knot with fishing line. I like that better since it isn't porous like thread. But either way works if you sanitize well! :ban:
 

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