1-Gallon Brewers UNITE!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Having a hard time finding anything solid on water displacement via BIAB. I have a 5 gallon kettle, want to end up with 4 gallons pre-boil. I have about 7.5lbs of grain. Is there some kind of calculator online I can use? Not sure if I can do a full mash, or will need to sparge some water in after the mash.

Thanks!

BIABacus (free) and BeerSmith2 (not free) have been pretty spot on in calculating if a recipe fits in my kettles for BIAB.

Both enable me to adjust the recipe to hold back water and then add it when there is sufficient room.

I just did this over the weekend on beer smith. It was a larger grain bill and it flagged that the mash volume would exceed my kettle, so I plugged in hold back numbers (to add to the boil) until I zero'd in to an amount that hit my targeted mash volume (maximum amount). The predictions were correct.
 
Your strike volume is calculated with grain weight and WtG ratio.

Except for ya know, those that don't adhere to mash thickness and instead either sparge at a fixed volume, or sparge to a fixed mash volume (maxi-biab), or don't sparge at all (no sparge). There are a lot of brewers that don't care about mash thickness (wtg ratio).


At some point in the beginning of your mash, when grains have yet to absorb water, you will be in a situation where you could potentially exceed the size of your tun.

That's why you don't try to go for a mash volume of 4.99 gallons in a 5 gallon kettle. I have gotten quite close and learned the lesson. You need room to stir, my rule of thumb is at least 1" headspace above the mash.


I'm not sure you can claim equivalence on the grounds you specify. I've never seen strike water calculated using preboil volume as a variable.

Well it works just as well, and is often times a more generalized formula as mash thickness isn't fully generalized (it doesn't fit every brewer). Malted barley displaces on average 0.08 gal/lb, but that will vary slightly with how finely it's crushed and which types of malt you're dealing with. It absorbs 0.08 gal/lb for BIAB with a good squeeze. Mash tuns generally absorb 0.125 gal/lb.

If you can find any other credible source on grain displacement, let me know and I'll revise my formulas.

Here's how the generalized approach goes, if any readers use a fixed mash thickness when determining their strike volume, which I would imagine is less common for 1 gal brewers as the prevailing mashing method is no sparge BIAB (which doesn't care about mash thickness).

Strike = Preboil + MashtunLosses + Grain Absorption (0.08 for biab, 0.125 for mashtun)

or

Strike = GrainBill (lb) * Mash Thickness (or WtG for you) / 4 (qt/gal conversion)

Mash Volume = Strike + Displacement (0.08 gal/lb).
 
I am a newbie 1 gallon brewer, currently nearing the end of a first stage fermentation on some mead, and then I am going to start with my first beer. Being a Canadian, good maple syrup is something I can come by easily, not the store bought crap either, but good farmers market quality product. I am thinking of using honey crisp apples and local maple syrup in my beer recipe, but I have no idea what kind of hops or yeast I want to use for the recipe. I want to make either an ale or a nice strong IPA.
 
If you want to use maple syrup, I think its a good idea to do a specialty ale. I think the maple flavor would muddy the hops flavors in an IPA. Use the calculators and make a recipe that is under 8 percent. Or better yet use a recipe you find online since it is your first beer. It'll be very easy to get a high ABV with maple syrup. Since maple syrup is mostly sugar you may want to mash high if you are all grain.. If you use LME the maple will thin it out nicely.
 
If you want to use maple syrup, I think its a good idea to do a specialty ale. I think the maple flavor would muddy the hops flavors in an IPA. Use the calculators and make a recipe that is under 8 percent. Or better yet use a recipe you find online since it is your first beer. It'll be very easy to get a high ABV with maple syrup. Since maple syrup is mostly sugar you may want to mash high if you are all grain.. If you use LME the maple will thin it out nicely.

I don't mind a beer with a high ABV. I have only ever drank one maple syrup infused beer before, the Flying Monkey's City and Colour Imperial Maple Wheat a few years ago and I have yet to find a substitute to it's likeness since then, sadly.
 
I don't mind a beer with a high ABV. I have only ever drank one maple syrup infused beer before, the Flying Monkey's City and Colour Imperial Maple Wheat a few years ago and I have yet to find a substitute to it's likeness since then, sadly.

I'm the same way. If I'm going to go to the trouble of making a nice beer, I'd rather be in the higher ABV range. There are pitfalls the higher you get though and small mistakes get magnified a lot when you get into the 6% + range.
 
BIABacus (free) and BeerSmith2 (not free) have been pretty spot on in calculating if a recipe fits in my kettles for BIAB.

Both enable me to adjust the recipe to hold back water and then add it when there is sufficient room.

I just did this over the weekend on beer smith. It was a larger grain bill and it flagged that the mash volume would exceed my kettle, so I plugged in hold back numbers (to add to the boil) until I zero'd in to an amount that hit my targeted mash volume (maximum amount). The predictions were correct.

I have beersmith2 on Android and can't figure out how to calculate if a recipe fits in my kettle for BIAB. Can you help me?
 
I definitely don't recommend the apps for bs2, they're super clunky to use (even more so than the official bs2 software). If phone usage is important, I would recommend using an online one.

If you already have a recipe set, you can use my mash calculator
 
I have beersmith2 on Android and can't figure out how to calculate if a recipe fits in my kettle for BIAB. Can you help me?


I do all the recipe design and equipment profile on the laptop and the volume tabs is where i can check an fix them. As for the apps, I only have the lite version (so I don't need to bring the laptop in the kitchen) so I can't help you.

The beer smith forum folks should be able to help you.
 
Well, my grandson and I bottled my first batch of ale today. One gallon of a Fat Tire Clone. Very few problems: too little water, hops added at wrong time and slow start.
1.6 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine malt
1.6 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt
1.6 oz Munich Malt
1.2 oz Biscuit Malt
.2 oz Chocolate Malt
(above steeped in 3 qts for 30 minutes@154 degrees & rinsed with 1 1/2 qts 170 degree water)
1/2# Amber Dry Extract
8.5 grams Willamette Hops
2.8 grams Fuggle Hops (added here by mistake; should have been @ 20 minutes from end)
(above added and brought to boil)
1/2# Extract added@15 minutes left
2.8 grams Fuggle Hops added at end for flavor
1/2 pkg SafBrew Specialty Ale yeast
(I added some more yeast after 48 hours of no activity)
10 days to bottling (We did a small taste at bottling time and it is good.)

We're pretty proud of our first batch and will take any criticism provided in a helpful manner....Ha! Ha! By the way, the one place my decision to go the 1 gallon path didn't go over well was at my local brewing supplier. I think it was because he was only set up for 5 gallon brewers. He basically made me feel like I was stupid. One reason I chose to go this way was because I'm not a big beer drinker and didn't want a whole lot sitting around. I'm a retired engineer and am more enamored with the process.
CHEERS!
 
You never have to apologize for brewing 1 gallon. There are a lot of folks here who (whether they intend to or not) seem to look down on us people who brew 1 gallon at a time. Space, equipment, and knowledge dictate how much I brew at a time. To me, testing out recipes is a lot more efficient when brewing 1 gallon. If you screw it up, you only have 9 bottles of @#$tty beer.

I am on my way to brewing larger batches, but I doubt I will ever brew my own recipe without testing on a 1-gallon batch first.
 
Looking for some cheap fermenters for small batches. I'm seeing that Orchard Supply Hardware has 2 gallon paint buckets for something like $3, but their listing doesnt say that they're food grade (they're designed for paint after all...). Should these be safe or should I keep looking? I want something cheap and plastic, dont feel like messing around with glass if possible. Thanks!
 
Looking for some cheap fermenters for small batches. I'm seeing that Orchard Supply Hardware has 2 gallon paint buckets for something like $3, but their listing doesnt say that they're food grade (they're designed for paint after all...). Should these be safe or should I keep looking? I want something cheap and plastic, dont feel like messing around with glass if possible. Thanks!

www.homebrewsupply.com/2-gallon-plastic-fermenting-bucket.html

$7.25 after you include the lid
 
By the way, the one place my decision to go the 1 gallon path didn't go over well was at my local brewing supplier. I think it was because he was only set up for 5 gallon brewers. He basically made me feel like I was stupid. One reason I chose to go this way was because I'm not a big beer drinker and didn't want a whole lot sitting around. I'm a retired engineer and am more enamored with the process.

CHEERS!



You never have to apologize for brewing 1 gallon. There are a lot of folks here who (whether they intend to or not) seem to look down on us people who brew 1 gallon at a time. Space, equipment, and knowledge dictate how much I brew at a time. To me, testing out recipes is a lot more efficient when brewing 1 gallon. If you screw it up, you only have 9 bottles of @#$tty beer.

I am on my way to brewing larger batches, but I doubt I will ever brew my own recipe without testing on a 1-gallon batch first.



The unwarranted derision that we small-batch brewers face is one of the reasons for the existence of this thread. Frankly, I feel no need to share with any of my suppliers what size batches I'm brewing!


A whole lot of this. I used to do only 5 gallon batches, and I kept thinking how dumb it was to waste all of those ingredients (some rather expensive, relatively) on something I wasn't sure I was doing right. Then I tripped over this thread, and the lightbulb came on with a whole bunch of 'duh' on my part. Now I perfect everything about each recipe before I go to the 5 gallon setup. Then that batch is stellar, and I enjoy each and every ounce that much more.
It's really stupid for people to look down on small batch brewing. How do they think people who brew commercially do it? They gonna make 100bbl batch that tastes like **** because that combination of ingredients was just wrong? Makes no damn sense at all.
 
I make one gallon batches because I really enjoy the taste of beer and the many different styles out there. Therefore, 5 gallons is way too much for me to drink. If you're brewing 5 gal batches to let other people try some, good for you because I hope they're pitching in on the price of ingredients!

My dream setup is the 10L (2.5gal) braumeister. If I had a batch that I really liked, I could brew up 2.5 gallons and wouldn't feel like I'm drinking it forever.
 
The unwarranted derision that we small-batch brewers face is one of the reasons for the existence of this thread. Frankly, I feel no need to share with any of my suppliers what size batches I'm brewing!

This is very true. I think it extends from the cost of the equipment. Basically if you aren't willing to put down the money for a 5 gallon all grain + kegging system, you aren't a true homebrewer. I experience the same thing shooting clays with my pump shotgun. It doesn't even matter that I can out shoot 90% of the shooters, I just am not a serious shooter because I am not carrying an over under shotgun.
 
Looking for some cheap fermenters for small batches. I'm seeing that Orchard Supply Hardware has 2 gallon paint buckets for something like $3, but their listing doesnt say that they're food grade (they're designed for paint after all...). Should these be safe or should I keep looking? I want something cheap and plastic, dont feel like messing around with glass if possible. Thanks!

It may have already been said but it's worth repeating. Visit some local cake decorating shops and ask for their frosting buckets. Frequently these places buy frosting in 2, 3, 5 gallon buckets and then throw them away when they're empty. A lot of those buckets have gasket-sealed lids too. My wife owned a bakery and sub-let space to cake decorators and I was aghast at the nice buckets they were tossing in the dumpster. I "liberated" these until they piled up to the point that even a hoarder like myself was getting embarrassed - that was before I started brewing. You can also try restaurants for pickle/olive/etc buckets. Naturally you'll want to do a thorough job of cleaning them first and pickle buckets will take a bit more cleaning than frosting buckets.
 
Lowes carries 2 gal food safe buckets with gasket lids. $3.50 per bucket and $1.99 per lid.
 
Thanks. There just so happens to be a cake shop right across the street from the local homebrew shop so I will hit them up today :D
Also, i noticed that the 2 gallon Mr. Beer fermenters are just $10. Anyone have experience with these? They look to have a nice, wide opening for easy cleaning and have a spigot. The lack of an airlock is a bit odd, but one just just drill a hole for that.
 
Looking for some cheap fermenters for small batches. I'm seeing that Orchard Supply Hardware has 2 gallon paint buckets for something like $3, but their listing doesnt say that they're food grade (they're designed for paint after all...). Should these be safe or should I keep looking? I want something cheap and plastic, dont feel like messing around with glass if possible. Thanks!

Go to a grocery store that has an in-house bakery. Ask them if they will save some 2-gallon buckets for you. They package bulk frosting, glaze, fondant, shortening, etc... in them.

EDIT: OK... I see I was beaten to the punch on this! There was an eBay vendor that had a reasonable price on 3 Two Gallon buckets with lids, but I can only find overpriced ones now!
 
The unwarranted derision that we small-batch brewers face is one of the reasons for the existence of this thread. Frankly, I feel no need to share with any of my suppliers what size batches I'm brewing!

When I need to get malt grain for my partial mash, 1-gallon mash in, the small amounts give me away. I don't want to go back to the supplier who tried to make me feel like an idiot for my batch size. When I got the grain for my present, first batch, I found a great supplier who supported me, but I think he has now gone out of business, so I think I may be back to square one.
:mad:
 
This is very true. I think it extends from the cost of the equipment. Basically if you aren't willing to put down the money for a 5 gallon all grain + kegging system, you aren't a true homebrewer. I experience the same thing shooting clays with my pump shotgun. It doesn't even matter that I can out shoot 90% of the shooters, I just am not a serious shooter because I am not carrying an over under shotgun.

Being from AZ, do you have a supplier who sells grains in small quantities?:confused:
 
Also, i noticed that the 2 gallon Mr. Beer fermenters are just $10. Anyone have experience with these? They look to have a nice, wide opening for easy cleaning and have a spigot. The lack of an airlock is a bit odd, but one just just drill a hole for that.

Mr. Beer fermenters are fine for small batch brewing! I regret having thrown mine out when I switched to "real" brewing.

The design of the Mr. Beer fermenter is such that you don't need an airlock. The top edge of the mouth has small notches on the edge that allow the release of gas. Notice that the lid is NOT gasketed to make an air tight seal. This is by design.
 
When I need to get malt grain for my partial mash, 1-gallon mash in, the small amounts give me away. I don't want to go back to the supplier who tried to make me feel like an idiot for my batch size. When I got the grain for my present, first batch, I found a great supplier who supported me, but I think he has now gone out of business, so I think I may be back to square one.
:mad:

Buy larger quantities, at least of your base grains, and get some air tight storage containers. Especially if you have a way to crush your own grain. Un-crushed grain has a pretty long shelf-life.

Edit: Or buy online... I generally prefer to support a local business, but if they're not gonna support you...
 
When I need to get malt grain for my partial mash, 1-gallon mash in, the small amounts give me away. I don't want to go back to the supplier who tried to make me feel like an idiot for my batch size. When I got the grain for my present, first batch, I found a great supplier who supported me, but I think he has now gone out of business, so I think I may be back to square one.
:mad:

My LHBS guy gave me the same look when I was purchasing my grains ha. But, he has ceased to give me the same look because I keep coming back for more. So, a sale is a sale. Hopefully your guy will do the same but don't give up!

Also, buying more grains if you can mill at home is a great idea too.
 
I brew 1-2 gallon batches, sometimes Mr. Beer and sometimes 1 gallon fruit juice wine. The Mr. Beer instructions say to sprinkle yeast and leave it. Some online tutorials say to shake the yeast in vigorously (even after aerating the must). Is it generally better to sprinkle and leave it or to shake/ stir in the yeast? Does shaking it damage it?
 
Sprinkle and leave floating or shake will both work. Shaking does not harm the yeast at all, and adds oxygen to the wort, which yeast needs in the early stages of fermentation.

I prefer to hydrate my yeast, then pour it into the already-oxygenized wort. If the yeast packet had rehydration instructions, follow them. If not, here are some good instructions:

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/rehydrating-dry-yeast/
 
Inoticed that the 2 gallon Mr. Beer fermenters are just $10. Anyone have experience with these? They look to have a nice, wide opening for easy cleaning and have a spigot. The lack of an airlock is a bit odd, but one just just drill a hole for that.

I use my LBK's for one gallon batches quite often, plenty of headspace so no need of a blowoff tube and the way they're designed they don't need an airlock either. However I still use my 1G glass jugs too, as I like to watch the fermentation process.
 
Being from AZ, do you have a supplier who sells grains in small quantities?:confused:

Hey Dean, glad to hear from you again. Yes, any of the LHBS stores that we have here in town will sell grains in small quantities. We are blessed to live in a town that has a lot of stores and I have been to a 5 of them. My favorite is the one down in Gilbert at Baseline and McQueen (Brew Your Own Brew, Gilbert). Those guys have achieved a good balance of the things that I want in a brew store. Here is a quick review of the stores I've been to.

Brew Your Own Brew Scottsdale - Super convenient for me, clean, organized. Really super duper nice helpful employees. Downside like the both the BYOB stores don't like the post packaged hops and unrefrigerated dry yeast.

Brew You Own Brew Gilbert - Location makes me think the product is fresher due to more exposure to the market. Again great nice non-Aholeish staff. Downside same as the other BYOB store.

Brewers Connection Tempe - Huge selection of LOTS of products. Huge store. The guy I talked to was great. Downside, grain and hops seemed like an after-thought (dis-organized).

Hops And Tannins (Formerly Anthem) - Quality ingredients. I really believe when this guy sells me Citra that I'm getting Citra. Also, you could get awesome hard to find beers from this place. Ridiculously passionate about homebrew, which brings me to the downside. The owner is super opinionated and pisses me off every time I go there. I really like the guy, but I brew the way I want to and anyone who doesn't like it can kiss my rear. I always hope an employee is there rather than the owner. The other thing, Is this place open closed? I don't really know. Supposedly they moved????

The other store - I can't really say anything nice, so I won't say anything.
 
By the way, the one place my decision to go the 1 gallon path didn't go over well was at my local brewing supplier. I think it was because he was only set up for 5 gallon brewers. He basically made me feel like I was stupid.
CHEERS!

:smack:

I don't know how one can be the business and not be aware of how popular one gallon and mini-Biab is becoming.

I was pleasantly surprised that my local HBS not only carried one gallon supplies for me to get started, they were very helpful, down to double grinding small batches of grain for me with a smile. There are supplies I can easily get online, but I prefer to make the trip to the HBS and discuss what i am doing and pick their brains for input, even if it costs me a few dollars. more.

They don't push the larger systems on me as they totally get why small batch is right for me. Now, there are times they pick my brain on what I'm finding works better which I am sure they will pass onto other small batch customers.

I guess that is why they have been in business all these years.
 
One really nice thing about doing a 2.5 gallon batch:
you can buy a 2.5 gallon jug of water at the grocery store,
and when you're done you don't have to clean it: just throw it away.

IMG_3868.jpg
 
I have only just started brewing and I started with 1 gallon recipe, if I screwed it up it was a cost factor and experiment but the next day I figured I still got grains might as well make my own recipe and now I got 2 gallons IPA that will be totally different even thinking off doing a dry hop on 7 day.Now I'm thinking I got nearly 2 lbs of Morris otter pale ale and Munich 1 grains , with some carared, caramunich what can I do?????:)
 
:smack:

I don't know how one can be the business and not be aware of how popular one gallon and mini-Biab is becoming.

I was pleasantly surprised that my local HBS not only carried one gallon supplies for me to get started, they were very helpful, down to double grinding small batches of grain for me with a smile. There are supplies I can easily get online, but I prefer to make the trip to the HBS and discuss what i am doing and pick their brains for input, even if it costs me a few dollars. more.

They don't push the larger systems on me as they totally get why small batch is right for me. Now, there are times they pick my brain on what I'm finding works better which I am sure they will pass onto other small batch customers.

I guess that is why they have been in business all these years.

Yeah, this makes no sense to me. Thankfully the guys at my local Brew Your Own Brew are really cool. Never once tried to talk me out of small batch brewing, never talked it down. They have always been really helpful.
 
Funny...

So I'm sitting at my desk and I keep hearing these weird gurgling sounds. I can't figure out what it making these odd sounds. I'm thinking it's the fridge refilling the ice trays or some other pipe thing. Then it occurs to me. It's a batch I brewed yesterday fermenting - spewing gas from the blowoff tube. At least I know it's working :D
 
Hi,

I am new to this forum and new to all grain brewing. I have had two brew days so far and both times I have missed my target OG, which was 1.051 for both of the recipes I used. First time the mash temperature was all over the place, too hot and too cold at different times and I achieved an actual OG of 1.038. Second time I managed too keep the temperature between 64.7 - 65.5 Celsius for 90 minutes but the actual OG was still only 1.042.

I am mashing in a 3 gallon stock pot. Following suggestions from a small batch recipe that I found I have been putting the pot in a pre-heated oven to maintain the temperature.

I am hoping that someone might be able to suggest a way that I can get closer to my target OG.
 
Uncruliar,

I had the same problem with my first few brews so I have just started adding a half to a quarter pound more base malt to my 1 gallon brews. I know this is a completely unscientific method, but it has done the trick.
 
Hi,

I am new to this forum and new to all grain brewing. I have had two brew days so far and both times I have missed my target OG, which was 1.051 for both of the recipes I used. First time the mash temperature was all over the place, too hot and too cold at different times and I achieved an actual OG of 1.038. Second time I managed too keep the temperature between 64.7 - 65.5 Celsius for 90 minutes but the actual OG was still only 1.042.

I am mashing in a 3 gallon stock pot. Following suggestions from a small batch recipe that I found I have been putting the pot in a pre-heated oven to maintain the temperature.

I am hoping that someone might be able to suggest a way that I can get closer to my target OG.

Don't always trust recipes. There are a several home brew software options that you can plug in the recipe to make sure it's valid. Was your volume into the fermentor correct - boil rates vary for each brewer and affect gravity.

Grain crush size and PH can affect the mash efficiency


and as schulticd suggests, if you are consistently low, increasing the grain bill (or adding DME at the end) will get you where you want. Consistency in your efficiency is a blessing - even if it's a little low.
 
Hi,

I am new to this forum and new to all grain brewing. I have had two brew days so far and both times I have missed my target OG, which was 1.051 for both of the recipes I used. First time the mash temperature was all over the place, too hot and too cold at different times and I achieved an actual OG of 1.038. Second time I managed too keep the temperature between 64.7 - 65.5 Celsius for 90 minutes but the actual OG was still only 1.042.

I am mashing in a 3 gallon stock pot. Following suggestions from a small batch recipe that I found I have been putting the pot in a pre-heated oven to maintain the temperature.

I am hoping that someone might be able to suggest a way that I can get closer to my target OG.

Hey Uncruliar,

I definitely understand the frustration of missing your Target OG as I did by quite a bit my first few batches as well. There are a number of factors that could have resulted in the lower than expected OG that you recorded. Ultimately, however, hitting your target OG is going to come down to consistency in your brewing process. You will need to take good notes, find a procedure that works for you, and stick to it (usually... its homebrewing... experimentation is a lot of fun). Since I have done this, I have consistently been able to hit my OG within a couple points. Also, I am unsure where you found this recipe, but you need to adapt each recipe you brew to your own system using batch sizes and efficiency (unfortunately, some recipes you find online do not provide the necessary information to do this, but many do). You could have done everything else perfectly, but if the recipe is not adjusted for your system, you run the risk of producing a beer far from what you had planned. It may take a couple brews to determine your efficiency, so don't worry about missing your OG the first time. Just take good notes and adjust for next time.

That said, the following should provide a decent starting point for more consistently hitting your target OG... I would first check that the volumes you are using for your calculations are right for your system and process. If you are doing an 60 minute boil, boil a measured amount of water for 60 minutes to determine your boil off rate. This will tell you how much wort you need to have in the boil pot before you even start the boil (your preboil volume), and then you know you will have the right volume at the end of the boil. This will help ensure you are hitting your volume. If you consistently are hitting the right volume, you can rely on the value you obtain for your efficiency. If you know your volumes and your efficiency, you can hit your target OG with a much higher degree of regularity.

Two other factors to keep in mind once you have your process down (there are others... i.e. mash pH) that immediately pop into mind to more consistently hit your OG are:

1. During your mash, make sure your water : grain ratio is consistent from brew to brew. I (usually) use 1.75 quarts for every 1lb grain in the recipe for my mash and then sparge the rest to obtain my desired preboil volume.

2. Ensure your grains are sufficiently and consistently crushed. A fine grind will result in a different mash efficiency than a course grind.

For your average brewday, hopefully this will provide a good starting point for you to more consistently hit your target OG. As I said, it will take a couple of batches to determine your efficiency and to gain the familiarity with your system that it takes to consistently hit your target OG, but once you do, it's a lot of fun! As you get more into the hobby and experiment more, you will find you need to make changes to that process (either just because you want to try something new, cause your using different/unique ingredients, because its a super high gravity beer, or any one of a hundred other reasons), but thats part of the fun of homebrewing, you have free reign. That said, put as much or as little of what I have to say to practice, just don't expect to consistently hit your OG till you know your system and have fun with it!

Cheers! :mug:
 
Back
Top