ChocolateMaltyBalls
Well-Known Member
If you buy online it's usually by the pound, local homebrew shops will measure out exactly (by weight). If you have brewing software it's pretty easy to scale a recipe from 5 gal to whatever size you want.
1-Gallon Brewers UNITE!
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I have never used it but Homebrew supply has a recipe builder that looks like you could order smaller quantities. Northern Brewer and Austin home brew supply sell 1 gallons kits.
If you brew often enough I would say buy some base malt and a few specialty malts by the pound then weight out the quantities you need. I think it might be cheaper in the long run.
If you brew often enough I would say buy some base malt and a few specialty malts by the pound then weight out the quantities you need. I think it might be cheaper in the long run.
Lepetitnormand
Well-Known Member
If you have a local brew shop they will get you hooked up.
I shop at my nearest one which happen to be austin home-brew and have no issue to have grain by the 1oz increment give or take the balance measuring error.
I shop at my nearest one which happen to be austin home-brew and have no issue to have grain by the 1oz increment give or take the balance measuring error.
Azbrewboy77
Well-Known Member
I wanted to do a 1 gal pale ale with dried sweet orange peel & was wondering how much to put in ? Just did an American wheat & used .2 oz at flame out
Anyone have a good 1 gallon blonde recipe, either extract or AG.
SWMBO is a corona drinker, and I dont want to make 5 gallons of a clone.
Figure I could test a blonde on her!
(Yes I understand the innuendo in that last sentence!)
SWMBO is a corona drinker, and I dont want to make 5 gallons of a clone.
Figure I could test a blonde on her!
(Yes I understand the innuendo in that last sentence!)
pricelessbrewing
Brewer's Friend Software Manager
Goodluck, mine keeps saying no to the blondes I bring her...
I'd go with Centeniel blonde from the recipe database or NHC 2012 gold medal winner MissVickie
Azbrewboy77
Well-Known Member
Thnx I appreciate the info
ohiobeer29
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Will probably start doing two gallons a bba stout and a dipa
Question:
1-Do I need a full package of yeast for a 1 gallon batch or can I get away with 1/2 pack?
2-I converted a 5 gallon recipe that calls for .25oz of hops for bittering, flavor & aroma.
For 1 gallon it is .05 oz. how the heck do I measure .05 of an oz?
Do I just use 1 pellet?
1-Do I need a full package of yeast for a 1 gallon batch or can I get away with 1/2 pack?
2-I converted a 5 gallon recipe that calls for .25oz of hops for bittering, flavor & aroma.
For 1 gallon it is .05 oz. how the heck do I measure .05 of an oz?
Do I just use 1 pellet?
TonyKZ1
Well-Known Member
1) half a package will be fine, that way you can then use the other half for another 1G batch.
2) If you had an accurate digital scale then you could probably measure that amount. However I had a 1G recipe from Brooklyn Brewshop that was made from a 5G recipe.
The 5G recipe used a bittering hop that was 17.5grams, /5 is 3.5 grams for the 1G recipe. 3.5 grams = .123 oz. They said to use 5 pellets for that amount. So maybe for you it would be 2 or 3 pellets. That's probably close enough?
2) If you had an accurate digital scale then you could probably measure that amount. However I had a 1G recipe from Brooklyn Brewshop that was made from a 5G recipe.
The 5G recipe used a bittering hop that was 17.5grams, /5 is 3.5 grams for the 1G recipe. 3.5 grams = .123 oz. They said to use 5 pellets for that amount. So maybe for you it would be 2 or 3 pellets. That's probably close enough?
An accurate scale that can resolve 1/10 of a gram or better is really helpful for small batch brewing. I have a scale similar to this one... A really good buy for under $10:
http://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-0-01g-Digital-Scale/dp/B0012LOQUQ
And I convert all my hop measurements to grams (multiply ounces by 28.35) then divide by the recipe size. So the .25 grams per 5 gallons mentioned above works out to about 1.4 grams for a 1 gallon batch. (I just measured out 1.4 grams... it was 11 pellets - YMMV!)
I also use 1/2 a packet of dry yeast. But, I'm thinking of trying 3-4 grams of yeast (about 1/3 of a packet) next time to get 3 batches per packet. I measure out the amount on my scale, then just close the packet by folding the top, putting a paper clip on it, and putting it back in the fridge for next time.
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By the way, a quick check for your small gram scales that's easy to remember: A nickel weighs 5 grams.
A penny (made after 1982) weighs 2.5 grams.
A penny (made after 1982) weighs 2.5 grams.
I think I've posted it elsewhere on HBT, but it seems to fit this topic, so I'll post this technique here.
What I've been doing for the past year or so is using one-gallon batches for SMASH experiments AND starters for my next 5 gal batch (got the idea after reading an article entitled something like "Make Beer, Not Starters"). I take 1.5-2# of base malt, 1oz hops, and a pint of slurry from a previous batch.
Right now I've got 2# of munich, a ounce of Hallertau, and some WLP090 slurry ready to go for a one-gallon "starter beer". For my last one I used 1.5# of maris otter, an ounce of Willamette, and some WLP001 slurry from god-knows-when. The hops and malt were also like 8 months old, so it was really an experiment in using old ingredients and I probably won't use the resulting yeast cake for anything.
Usually my hop schedule for these is something like:
0.25oz @60m
0.25oz @15m
0.25oz @5m
0.25oz @0m
What I've been doing for the past year or so is using one-gallon batches for SMASH experiments AND starters for my next 5 gal batch (got the idea after reading an article entitled something like "Make Beer, Not Starters"). I take 1.5-2# of base malt, 1oz hops, and a pint of slurry from a previous batch.
Right now I've got 2# of munich, a ounce of Hallertau, and some WLP090 slurry ready to go for a one-gallon "starter beer". For my last one I used 1.5# of maris otter, an ounce of Willamette, and some WLP001 slurry from god-knows-when. The hops and malt were also like 8 months old, so it was really an experiment in using old ingredients and I probably won't use the resulting yeast cake for anything.
Usually my hop schedule for these is something like:
0.25oz @60m
0.25oz @15m
0.25oz @5m
0.25oz @0m
I mentioned to the guy at my LHBS I was going to split the yeast into 2 batches.
He got worried that I won't use the yeast in the same day.
I assured him I was going to close the pouch, place in an ziploc bag and vacuum all air out.
He warned me about possible infection .
Everyone else is reusing yeast with no issue, right?
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I've actually re-sealed yeast packets with a Food Saver (on seal only... no vacuum). I think that's overkill, though.
You just need to be reasonably cautious. Don't go waving the open packet around... don't breathe into it... don't leave it sitting open on the kitchen counter for a few hours. Just fold it over as soon as you've measured your portion out, and put a paper clip on it. Risk of infection is pretty minimal as long as you minimize handling and get it back in the cold storage quickly. If you're really nervous, put the open, clipped packet in a ZipLock bag and squeeze as much air out as you can.
You just need to be reasonably cautious. Don't go waving the open packet around... don't breathe into it... don't leave it sitting open on the kitchen counter for a few hours. Just fold it over as soon as you've measured your portion out, and put a paper clip on it. Risk of infection is pretty minimal as long as you minimize handling and get it back in the cold storage quickly. If you're really nervous, put the open, clipped packet in a ZipLock bag and squeeze as much air out as you can.
I have those ziploc vacuum seal bags, with the hand pump.
I can suck all the air out and then throw in fridge or deep freezer
I was going end up making 1 batch Saturday and then another batch in 2 weeks.
Now my issue is using the same yeast for 2 recipes that all for different yeasts
Centennial blonde (notty)
Cream ale -(05 )
Just have to decide which one to use for both.
Any ideas?
I figured as much.
Not to mention I looked at my next full recipe a super hoppy IPA and it called for 0-5
So I get to save it for later
Thank for info
bransona
Well-Known Member
Brewing up 1.25 gallons of 1.115 wort for an imperial Belgian porter today! This is a huge beer in tiny batch form
Nice! Let us know how it comes out!
bransona
Well-Known Member
Just had over a gallon of 1.120 wort go in with 3787. Batten down the hatches, it's gonna be a big one
FatsSchindee
Well-Known Member
Actually at 1.25 qt. Per pound (which is the typical rate) it would be 1.8 qts. For strike water.
I used to different calculators. Brewers friends told me to use 1.25 quart per # grain mash water & 1.89 Q per # for strike water
Another calculators instructed me to use 1/2 gallon mash water also calculated 2.93 gallon sparage water.
I am confused!
Well.... 1.89 qts. is pretty close to 1/2 gallon. It's not going to be make or break either way.
The 2.93 gallons of sparge is a little high unless you experience a large boil off.
Edit: I think I read your post wrong, but I consider mash water and strike water to be the same thing. So, perhaps you mean 1.89 qts./lb. for sparge water. Which is only ~4.6 qts. total water. that doesnt give you much boil off. In my experience, if you set up your equipment profiles the calculator are pretty accurate.
The 2.93 gallons of sparge is a little high unless you experience a large boil off.
Edit: I think I read your post wrong, but I consider mash water and strike water to be the same thing. So, perhaps you mean 1.89 qts./lb. for sparge water. Which is only ~4.6 qts. total water. that doesnt give you much boil off. In my experience, if you set up your equipment profiles the calculator are pretty accurate.
Thanks for help.
Hit target numbers using 1/2 gallon mash (155F) & 1 gallon sparage (170F).
After 1 day of constant bubbling my bucket has slowed down considerably!
With my 5 gallon batches I usual go 3 week primary.
Does a 1 gallon batch need 3 weeks in primary or since it is smaller only 2 is acceptable?
48 hours and the bucket is no longer throwing gas out the airlock
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1457990361.283777.jpg
bransona
Well-Known Member
I have a little over a gallon of 1.120 wort fermented with wy3787. It just dropped clear-ish after 5 days. Probably not gonna be ready for a bit, but I would agree that smaller batches can have some funny effects on fermentation and fermentation time. I've bottled a lot of my typical 1.5 gallon batches after 5-6 days. Makes great beer, so I don't necessarily subscribe to the "mandatory two weeks primary and three weeks in bottles." I've had delicious beer after 5 days in fermenter and a week in bottles. Of course, this was a session wheat (4.5%), but still.
I am making a blonde ale projected to be 4.2%
It is bubbling about once an hour and slowing down daily, so I know a bulk o fermentation is done.
I am considering racking it after a week then cold crashing for a few days.
Mostly because I want to start a second batch next weekend.
I am just used to doing 3 week primary & 3 week bottles. But that is usually ft high ABV, stouts & ipa
Then again I may be bottling rather than racking.
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