1-Gallon Brewers UNITE!

[Aristotelian]

I am a newbie with a simplistic question or two: I have a 1 gallon recipe from Northern Brewery. If I follow the instructions explicitly, there is no call for using a hydrometer. I am looking forward to future brewing and want to use/learn about the specific gravity of the process, so I am going to take readings, even though they might not be part of the process. Questions:
1. OG is taken at the point of cooled wort???
2. Boiling the 1.25 gallon wort, as they say to do, is going to remove quite a bit due to evaporation. Can anyone give me an idea of percentage that is lost, say for an hour of boiling???
3. Related to 2, if I remove some of the cooled wort for SG testing, on a 1 gallon recipe, then some more after fermentation for FG, I am taking quite a bit out of the 1 gallon wort. In reality, shouldn't I really be starting with more than 1.25 gal and how much???

OR

4. Should I be replacing the removed wort after testing, which seems like a high risk of contamination???

This newbie needs a few answers.

1. Yes (although you can take the sample when it is still cooling and then adjust the result using a calculator. http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/

2. Boiloff is going to vary depending on your setup. I usually figure 0.5 gallons for a 1 gallon batch.

3. No, if you add water to account for your sample you are going to end up with the right final volume but now your wort will be overly diluted. Best solution is to zap your sample in the microwave to resanitize and then dump it back into the cooling wort.

4. Most people would dump their sample, but as a small batch brewer I just try to be careful with sanitation and save it.

 

[deanoaz]

More likely that they have the commonly held belief that 1 gallon batches aren't "worth the time" and so are trying to get you to "be happier" with the hobby by getting better return on your time.

I've done both large batches, (9G) and small (.75G), and am quite happy doing both. The ease of effort of doing small batches lets me turn out a nice variety in my pipeline without too much effort or occupied space. Now if I had a nice empty basement again, and room for a kegerator and a dedicated electric brew space I would probably be doing larger batches because I could afford the space and time. However atm, I'm limited and don't have room for several 5-8G fermenters to sit around the apartment.

I'm sort of in the same situation for space, except I just like quality ale and not QUANTITY.....I don't go through that much. Being an engineer, I am into the process and would like to perfect future 1 gallon batches. I already have an RC airplane hobby that eats up money; I don't need another money pit.

 

[deanoaz]

1. Yes (although you can take the sample when it is still cooling and then adjust the result using a calculator. http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/

2. Boiloff is going to vary depending on your setup. I usually figure 0.5 gallons for a 1 gallon batch. Thanks.

3. No, if you add water to account for your sample you are going to end up with the right final volume but now your wort will be overly diluted. Best solution is to zap your sample in the microwave to resanitize and then dump it back into the cooling wort. I really like this solution. Thanks.

4. Most people would dump their sample, but as a small batch brewer I just try to be careful with sanitation and save it.

I will be careful.

 

[pricelessbrewing]

For an estimation in your boil off rate, and other useful tidbits of brew day measurements check out the link in my sig.


I like the idea of a quick burst in the microwave to sanitize. I actually do that for my beer bottles since I can fit ~14 bottles in at the same time it works for these small batches without too much trouble. An alternative is to get a refractometer instead of a hydrometer, very convenient for small batches.

Youshould wait till the sample is cooled to the calibration temp on the hydrometer. That temp is typically either 60 or 68f and is listed at the base of the hydrometer. Those correction tools aren't always accurate beyond ~90F

 

[harrke]

-->Questions:


1. OG is taken at the point of cooled wort???


2. Boiling the 1.25 gallon wort, as they say to do, is going to remove quite a bit due to evaporation. Can anyone give me an idea of percentage that is lost, say for an hour of boiling???


3. Related to 2, if I remove some of the cooled wort for SG testing, on a 1 gallon recipe, then some more after fermentation for FG, I am taking quite a bit out of the 1 gallon wort. In reality, shouldn't I really be starting with more than 1.25 gal and how much???





OR





4. Should I be replacing the removed wort after testing, which seems like a high risk of contamination???<--

1. Yes

2. The way I estimated the boil-off for my first batch was to boil 1.5 gallons of water vigorously in my kettle and record the level on a measuring stick every 15 minutes for an hour. Then refilled the pot noting the volume added at each increment.

3./4. There is no "right" answer. I quickly moved to a refractometor. Some, you'll find ,taste their samples (yum). Some return the sample and just try to be sanitary.

I hope that we all remain "newbies" to a certain extent. There is so much to brew and so many techniques to try! Every new experiment is an adventure which makes this fun as a hobby.

RDWHAHB!

 

[Azbrewboy77]

I boil 1.25 & end up with a littles less than 1 gal , I use a refactometer also ( 40$ ) I add a small amount of h2o if needed when moving in to fermenter & although I would love to be precise with final gravity its difficult with 1 gal batches ,also I strain & use hop bags to get the most wort , it helps

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

This newbie needs a few answers.

A little experience goes a long way, I suggest you just brew the kit (following the instructions) then you will have a better grasp of brewing. After that first go you will have an idea of what your volume losses are for each step and you can then account for those losses for the next batch, including hydrometer samples. First learn the basics like proper sanitation, controlling boil overs, etc.

Then come back here with more questions!

 

[Lepetitnormand]

my boil off is 9 cup (aka tad over a quart) after a vigourous hour boil, please see vigourous boil with a salt of grain, it's easier to have a vigourous boil at the end with a gallon than at the begining due to hot break and higher volume in the kettle.

 

[FatsSchindee]

my boil off is 9 cup (aka tad over a quart) after a vigourous hour boil, please see vigourous boil with a salt of grain, it's easier to have a vigourous boil at the end with a gallon than at the begining due to hot break and higher volume in the kettle.

Just so you don't screw up your volume measurements or calculations later, 9 cups is not a tad over a quart - it is a tad over 2 quarts. A cup is 8oz, a pint is 16oz, a quart is 32 oz. So a quart is 4 cups...

And my boil-off is similar - around 0.6 gal/hr (or 9.6 cups).

 

[fuzzy2133]

my boil off is 9 cup (aka tad over a quart) after a vigourous hour boil, please see vigourous boil with a salt of grain, it's easier to have a vigourous boil at the end with a gallon than at the begining due to hot break and higher volume in the kettle.

Yes do not do what I did a few times and adjust the burner down through the boil. Could not figure out why the boil off was changing on each batch. Felt like a when I realize I was the culprit.

 

[bamcisman]

Brewing at smaller scales, how do you guys store unused hops? Vacuum seal and refrigerate? TIA

 

[pricelessbrewing]

Always put hops in the freezer not the fridge. I just ziploc bag it.

 

[Lepetitnormand]

Just so you don't screw up your volume measurements or calculations later, 9 cups is not a tad over a quart - it is a tad over 2 quarts. A cup is 8oz, a pint is 16oz, a quart is 32 oz. So a quart is 4 cups...

And my boil-off is similar - around 0.6 gal/hr (or 9.6 cups).

ah ah ah that would be about right thanks for correcting me indeed I get a tad above a half gallon of boil ff

 

[fuzzy2133]

Brewing at smaller scales, how do you guys store unused hops? Vacuum seal and refrigerate? TIA

Always put hops in the freezer not the fridge. I just ziploc bag it.

If you brew frequently a zip lock with the air pushed out and stored in the freezer is fine.

If you have lots down time between batches (3+ months) vacuum packing is the best option. Definitely vacuum pack into smaller amounts if you start getting hops in bulk.

 

[Pantherjon]

I currently have a 1G kit on its way to me on a big brown truck..Am looking forward to making small batches..Currently I have 2(soon to be 3) 2G kits(Mr Beer-all 3) and 2 5G kits.

 

[bamcisman]

Thanks, gents.

 

[hehawbrew]

Hey guys. I've been brewing a few years but it has slowed with the birth of my son two years ago. Do you guys have a good setup that you recommend? I used to do one gal batches and figure someone has to have a good system. Much appreciated!

 

[MadHomebrewer]

Hey guys. I've been brewing a few years but it has slowed with the birth of my son two years ago. Do you guys have a good setup that you recommend? I used to do one gal batches and figure someone has to have a good system. Much appreciated!

Northern Brewer just came out with an upgraded kit comes with about everything you would need. I'll link it below.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewi...ch-starter-kit/go-pro-small-batch-starter-kit

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYaypY5s_bE[/ame]

 

[hehawbrew]

I have everything the kit offers. I've brewed AG the past few years. Just curious to see what everyone uses for the mash progress......

 

[MadHomebrewer]

I have everything the kit offers. I've brewed AG the past few years. Just curious to see what everyone uses for the mash progress......

I use a five gallon paint strainer bag for BIAB for one gallons. I built a 2 gallon mash tun but with just one gallon it was harder to maintain temps. Biab I found to be easier.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1449973308.602020.jpg

 

[hehawbrew]

I use a five gallon paint strainer bag for BIAB for one gallons. I built a 2 gallon mash tun but with just one gallon it was harder to maintain temps. Biab I found to be easier.View attachment 322280

Thanks. I'll have to read up on BIAB. About how long does it take, start to finish? I'm sure it's much quicker than 5 gal due to less mess, set up, clean up, etc.

 

[hehawbrew]

.

 

[MadHomebrewer]

Thanks. I'll have to read up on BIAB. About how long does it take, start to finish? I'm sure it's much quicker than 5 gal due to less mess, set up, clean up, etc.

It honestly takes around the same amount of time as a 5 gallon. The clean up and setup is quicker but the process is the same. Now if you want something quicker look up the 15 minute pale ale recipe on here. It is extract but your boil for 15 min and it makes a very tasty pale ale. I've done several versions but my all Citra version was my favorite.

Link: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=210253

 

[snowcrawl]

One of the 1 gallon kit stores I've ordered from built the BIAB method into their instructions, so I've tried that. However I decided to stick with using a large metal strainer at the end of the mash. This one here, placed overtop of a 5 gallon pot:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B014DU5PFC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I then recirculate the collected liquid, by gently pouring it overtop of the grain bed again. I have a second clean 5 gallon pot to place the strainer while I collect the liquid and put it into a measuring cup for pouring.

Then I have another pot on the stovetop with the sparge water ready at the desired temperature. Just a few degrees higher to make up for the loss as I pour it first into a measuring cup and then on the grain bed. Trying to keep the sparge process relatively slow and even.

So yeah, the 1 gallon brewing method can be a little more labor intensive in certain steps of the process, where you are doing things by hand.

As far as things I've added to the basic setup. I use the oxygen tank/oxygenation wand. A lot easier than picking up the jug and shaking it. The standard 1 gallon kit method calls for using an ice bath in the sink to cool the wort. But then you have to remember to keep lots of ice on hand. In that respect, an immersion chiller seems like a worthwhile upgrade. Although I imagine you already have much of these things.

I went with a bench capper after the hand held capper that came with my 1 gallon kit broke. It is a lot more versatile in that it gives you the ability to fill bottles of all different shapes and sizes, including the narrow neck bottles that the hand held capper is unable to grip onto.

I would recommend getting a couple decent quality folding work tables that you can use for racking/bottling, to give you the ability to set up a work area away from the kitchen.

 

[pricelessbrewing]

My small batches are pretty quick. 45 minute mash for the average brew, 60 minutes for big brews. 5-10 minutes to move the grain bag and sparge. ~5 minutes to get to boil. then 60 minute boil. 10-15 minutes to chill (10 ft x 1/2 ID (5/8 OD) immersion chiller. Total time: ~135-150 minutes.

Water is ready to go as soon as I'm ready. I fill a slow cooker with water and have it start 2.5 hours before I'm ready to go using a lamp timer. Can use some water in my hot tea kettle.

I've also used the timer to toggle the heat on the slow cooker to turn off and on every half hour, and mashed while I want shopping or gone to work. Works well, temps fluctuate a bit more

 

[hehawbrew]

Thanks everyone. Lots of good tips. Hope to get some stuff brewing again after the holidays. I think the BIAB is the way I'm going to go. Again, thanks for help!

 

[ohiobeer29]

Quick update on the bcbs 1 gallon clone I started in March i tried my first.bottle last night, flavors are mild bourbon vanilla chocolate and oak overall turned out pretty good

 

[TonyKZ1]

Sounds good, someone on another forum has brewed this and commented how good it was. I've also noticed a few more 1G questions in the forum, so hopefully they'll see this 1-Gallon Brewers UNITE! topic for more info.

 

[brewprint]

Please disregard.

Carry on

 

[Opiate42]

I have everything the kit offers. I've brewed AG the past few years. Just curious to see what everyone uses for the mash progress......

I've tried BIAB a couple times and found it, not less efficient, just that I didn't enjoy the process as much as just going bagless in a pot with a glass lid for mashing, have to stir all the time to keep the heat uniform and from scorching the bottom grains. The BIAB beers turned out just fine and it was easier cleanup, maybe I just like it messy and hands on

So what's everybody been up to lately? My last batch was on Halloween, was out of the country for much of December so haven't had a chance to try it out yet, dropped a couple bottles in the fridge yesterday to chill and try tonight. Was trying to use up a few things in the freezer so this was the experiment:

60 minute mash @ 154
730g 2-row
109g pale rye malt
50g honey malt
30g chocolate malt

4g fuggle @ 60
5g fuggle @ 45
6g amarillo @ 30
6g amarillo @ 15
6g jarrylo @ 10
6g jarrylo @ 5

Yeast : S-04 hydrated.

Used bottled water, didn't have enough time to filter and gas-out my usual tap water. Haven't used Jarrylo too much, did a SMaSH with 2-row some time ago and initially wasn't great, but after a while aged nicely in the bottle so really curious about this one.

Really not sure what is going to come out of this mess, will find out when I get home