• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

1-Gallon Brewers UNITE!

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
question on 2.5 gal batch,

can I use a 3 gal Better Battle carboy as a secondary vessel?

should I be concerned with the extra .5 gal head..
 
question on 2.5 gal batch,

can I use a 3 gal Better Battle carboy as a secondary vessel?

should I be concerned with the extra .5 gal head..

It'll be a little more than .5 gallon since Better Bottles are actually larger than their stated size. But it shouldn't be a problem at all. I've used mine as secondaries no problem. My batches are 3 gallon post-boil and I siphon almost exactly 2.5 gallon after fermentation.
 
Yesfan said:
Where are some of you guys (and gals) using to ferment your small batches? I called my local Walmart to see if their bakery dept was willing part with theirs. Unfortunately, my local Wally World reuses theirs for their produce dept. I then called my local Bi-Lo and a lady there was willing to save me three 2 gallon buckets (w/ lids). I have some other things I need to do, so I'll pick them up on the way back. I also ordered some S airlocks from Amazon (link)

Just thought I would share this with some of those that want/need some extra fermentors.

I have picked up 2 gallon and 3 gallon buckets from the bakery dept at Raleys and Safeway. Had to go into the same store 3 times before the worker would even look at one but the persistence paid off. I also use 2 plastic milk containers when I do a 1.5 gallon batch and just split it into the 2 milk cartons. Works great. I'm sure glad I did that with the last saison I tried because I didn't like it. I gave it away to someone who loved it...lol
 
Last edited by a moderator:
No you store it and use it again.

The best way to use liquid yeast is to make a starter, use the amount you need, then store the rest of it in sanitized containers (many of us use mason jars) in the fridge til you need it again.

ahhh, I was going to say. That stuff ain't cheap! Cheers :mug:
 
ahhh, I was going to say. That stuff ain't cheap! Cheers :mug:
If you plan on re-using yeast I would highly recommend the book: "Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation" by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff. It has some great information about yeast rinsing, washing, culturing, storing, etc...it is an invaluable resource. Cheers!
 
gwdraper4 said:
If you plan on re-using yeast I would highly recommend the book: "Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation" by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff. It has some great information about yeast rinsing, washing, culturing, storing, etc...it is an invaluable resource. Cheers!

Aha. More for the library. Thanks!
 
I'm usually a 3-gallon small batch brewer but since I had some extra space and I seemed to have plenty of yeast from my first attempt at yeast watching, I decided to test out a 1-gallon recipe. I was amazed at how fast the wort cooled. It actually threw my routine off, I had to let the cooled wort sit while I finished sanitizing the carboy.
 
I'm usually a 3-gallon small batch brewer but since I had some extra space and I seemed to have plenty of yeast from my first attempt at yeast watching, I decided to test out a 1-gallon recipe. I was amazed at how fast the wort cooled. It actually threw my routine off, I had to let the cooled wort sit while I finished sanitizing the carboy.

I know what you mean...by the time I'm done making my ice bath the wort is cooled...I actually have to move pretty quickly or the wort gets into the 60s before I can even measure out my yeast
 
ReaderRabbit said:
I'm usually a 3-gallon small batch brewer but since I had some extra space and I seemed to have plenty of yeast from my first attempt at yeast watching, I decided to test out a 1-gallon recipe. I was amazed at how fast the wort cooled. It actually threw my routine off, I had to let the cooled wort sit while I finished sanitizing the carboy.

Wow, I need to save up more ice....
 
New mash tun from home depot, cost 9.97, 2 gallon cooler. Highly recommended for 1g brewers!

image-3120185793.jpg
 
Exactly what I did! unfortunately I spent a small fortune at my local hardware store picking up the parts......
 
hey 1 gallon brewers - do you guys take both OG and FG ratings? If so do you 'recycle' the wort back? To fill my hydrometer it takes 3/4 a cup of wort. So to take both measurements that's 1.5 cups...with a 1 gallon quantity it's 'a lot' of wort to waste. Just curious what others do.
 
ninkasi2012 said:
hey 1 gallon brewers - do you guys take both OG and FG ratings? If so do you 'recycle' the wort back? To fill my hydrometer it takes 3/4 a cup of wort. So to take both measurements that's 1.5 cups...with a 1 gallon quantity it's 'a lot' of wort to waste. Just curious what others do.

Buy a refractometer. Look them up on Amazon, I spent $30 on mine....totally worth it. Basically, you put a drop of liquid on the viewer and it measures the gravity of the sample. There are some conversions you have to do....but it literally uses one drop and you don't have to cool a hydrometer sample.
 
thanks for the suggestion...i am debating buying a refractomenter however I heard the FG rating is a bit hard to measure...

Another challenge I'm having with 1 gallon beer is bottling - do you guys use priming sugar, or do you use sugar tablets to avoid losing wort transferring from one container to another?
 
thanks for the suggestion...i am debating buying a refractomenter however I heard the FG rating is a bit hard to measure...

Another challenge I'm having with 1 gallon beer is bottling - do you guys use priming sugar, or do you use sugar tablets to avoid losing wort transferring from one container to another?

I use sugar tablets, a little pricey, but no fuss. I also use a hydrometer for my gravity readings, as long as it's sanitized there should be no problem putting the wort back in the pot.
 
what is the benefit to using a cooler for the mashing? I've been using my stock pot for mashing, is there any reason i shouldn't?
 
what is the benefit to using a cooler for the mashing? I've been using my stock pot for mashing, is there any reason i shouldn't?
The stock pot and I assume a bag would be the technique of BIAB( Brew In A Bag) the cooler is closer to what traditional All Grain brewers do.

If it is a stock pot and extract then that is just extract brewing.
 
I like using a cooler because I can basically "Set it, and forget it." Basically, I put my grains and strike water in, and wait 60 min. (well, I stir it occasionally). This time gap allows me to prep the rest of my brew day(Measure hops, clean something....). thus, a shorter brew day!
 
thanks for the suggestion...i am debating buying a refractomenter however I heard the FG rating is a bit hard to measure...

Another challenge I'm having with 1 gallon beer is bottling - do you guys use priming sugar, or do you use sugar tablets to avoid losing wort transferring from one container to another?
With a refractometer I've found it to be somewhere between difficult and impossible to calculate an accurate FG. They work perfectly for OG, but the alcohol content messes them up for FG. It is possible to compensate for the alcohol content, but to much of a pain IMO to be worth bothering with.

However, you can use one to tell when the gravity has stopped changing. Then take a gravity reading for FG with a hydrometer. Yes, I sanitize everything and recycle the sample.
 
But...if you have a refractometer for OG readings, and if you still leave sufficient time for the yeast to finish and the beer to clear up like many of us leave our big batches for a month, you simply need to take a hydrometer reading at the end to make sure and to ascertain the Fg for calculating ABV. You're only out one sample, and that you just drink. Doesn't everyone taste a little on bottling day? Like the last dregs at the bottom of the fermenter? It's not really that much beer, even in a gallon batch, no more than you would probably sneak anyway.
 
Revvy said:
But...if you have a refractometer for OG readings, and if you still leave sufficient time for the yeast to finish and the beer to clear up like many of us leave our big batches for a month, you simply need to take a hydrometer reading at the end to make sure and to ascertain the Fg for calculating ABV. You're only out one sample, and that you just drink. Doesn't everyone taste a little on bottling day? Like the last dregs at the bottom of the fermenter? It's not really that much beer, even in a gallon batch, no more than you would probably sneak anyway.

Drinking my FG sample is my favorite part of bottling/kegging sometimes it has just enough residual CO2 to be like a cask conditioned ale!
 
I have a 1/2 gallon growler we got from a beer making class - its a porter- and I cant wait to 'rack and pack' it . Sad that its a 1/2 gallon- but seeing that little guy in there inspired me a little.

I've been avoiding reading much of this thread for a good reason. After 2 x 6 gallon 2 x 5 gallon 2 x 3 gallon carboys- do I really have the room / space / patience for 1 gallon brewing? I think I do- but I would do it for mainly experimental purposes.

Im wondering- since most additions come after flame out- or after 1 week in primary- if I make a 3 gallon batch- and split it in 3 gallon carboys- is there anything I can do pre- pitch to change up whats going to happen in these carboys flavor wise? If I want to experiment with different dry hop flavors- ex: one citra, one cascade, one no hop addition- I can see the advantages- but what about pre- pitching the yeast. Can I do anything prior to putting that airlock on and waiting?

Side question- all things relative- does a smaller batch of beer clear quicker than a larger batch? Or does yeast, cleaning etc just happen over the same time- not relevant to size of batch?
 
I have a 1/2 gallon growler we got from a beer making class - its a porter- and I cant wait to 'rack and pack' it . Sad that its a 1/2 gallon- but seeing that little guy in there inspired me a little.

I've been avoiding reading much of this thread for a good reason. After 2 x 6 gallon 2 x 5 gallon 2 x 3 gallon carboys- do I really have the room / space / patience for 1 gallon brewing? I think I do- but I would do it for mainly experimental purposes.

Im wondering- since most additions come after flame out- or after 1 week in primary- if I make a 3 gallon batch- and split it in 3 gallon carboys- is there anything I can do pre- pitch to change up whats going to happen in these carboys flavor wise? If I want to experiment with different dry hop flavors- ex: one citra, one cascade, one no hop addition- I can see the advantages- but what about pre- pitching the yeast. Can I do anything prior to putting that airlock on and waiting?

Side question- all things relative- does a smaller batch of beer clear quicker than a larger batch? Or does yeast, cleaning etc just happen over the same time- not relevant to size of batch?

So, I some times will make a 5 gallon batch, and at 60 minutes, I'll fill 2 one gallon carboys and start cooling in an ice bath. I will often dry hop one of them.

With the remaining 3 gallons I might then add orange peel or something else I'm curious about and continue the boil, or I may change the late addition hops. Then I'll either rack all 3 gallon or split them as well. I often use washed yeast so I might split the entire batch into 5 one gallons and pitch a different yeast into each. There's a ton of possibilities, I just recommend taking good notes. When I "wing" it, it is always the one I'd like to make a big batch of later, and can't remember what I did.
 
Leadgolem said:
With a refractometer I've found it to be somewhere between difficult and impossible to calculate an accurate FG. They work perfectly for OG, but the alcohol content messes them up for FG. It is possible to compensate for the alcohol content, but to much of a pain IMO to be worth bothering with.

However, you can use one to tell when the gravity has stopped changing. Then take a gravity reading for FG with a hydrometer. Yes, I sanitize everything and recycle the sample.

I picked up the refractometer from Morebeer that corrects and it has a link on the site to the excel spreadsheet for when you have alcohol in your beer. I loaded the spreadsheet in my iphone so i could use it in the brewery without bringing in a laptop. Tested it 4 times side by side with a hydrometer before I was convinced I could trust it but now I love it. It's very accurate for OG and FG readings and its so fast. I picked up a long plastic straw from a candy shop that I use for a thief and it works great. After I dump out my sample of approx 1/2 to 1/4 oz, it's enough to taste it to see how it's going. Sometimes I dip the straw a few more times just to get about an oz so I get a real good taste and I still have my drop for my reading.
 
I picked up the refractometer from Morebeer that corrects and it has a link on the site to the excel spreadsheet for when you have alcohol in your beer. I loaded the spreadsheet in my iphone so i could use it in the brewery without bringing in a laptop. Tested it 4 times side by side with a hydrometer before I was convinced I could trust it but now I love it. It's very accurate for OG and FG readings and its so fast. I picked up a long plastic straw from a candy shop that I use for a thief and it works great. After I dump out my sample of approx 1/2 to 1/4 oz, it's enough to taste it to see how it's going. Sometimes I dip the straw a few more times just to get about an oz so I get a real good taste and I still have my drop for my reading.
Hmm, might have been the conversion chart I was using then. Or the fact that I was aiming for more the 10% abv. Something to revisit at some point.
 
Question: What are you guys using for 1 Gallon Brews? Glass? Plastic?

Are you using the wine jugs- with the screw tops? Just using airlocks instead?

thx
 
Back
Top