1-Gallon Brewers UNITE!

[bwible]

So I opened the first bottle of Small Scale Old ale. (Above) This is 5 days in the bottle. I can see looking at the unopened bottle, the beer inside has dropped brilliant clear.

It opened with a faint hiss. Poured with light carbonation. What little head there was did not last long. Those dark grains like roasted barley are prominent in the aroma and the flavor. I might drop the bitterness down a little if I were to make this again. It will be interesting to see if this changes any over the next couple weeks.

 

[ryeguy1]

How does everyone handle water additions with small batches? Is there any concern with salts becoming more concentrated since such a high % of water is lost during the boil when compared to 5gal+ batches?

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Is there any concern with salts becoming more concentrated since such a high % of water is lost during the boil when compared to 5gal+ batches?

I calculated salt additions based on the end of boil volume.

 

[crazyjake19]

How does everyone handle water additions with small batches? Is there any concern with salts becoming more concentrated since such a high % of water is lost during the boil when compared to 5gal+ batches?

You shouldn't be losing a higher percentage of your wort because it's a small batch. Turn down the heat.

I target an 8-10% boil off whether it's a 1-gallon batch or a 5-gallon batch.

 

[MograhmDeadbraid]

I'm tired of hearing all you big boy 5-Gallon brewers telling us 1-Gallon brewers to step up. A lot of us brew 1-Gallon batches because that's all we have room for right now, not because we're afraid of stepping up our game. Trust me, if I could, I would, but in the meantime I'm actually really feeling the 1-Gallon game. Here's why:

Brew Day takes me about 3-4 hours, which includes cleanup.

I know one of the main points from 5-Gallon brewers is that "if you brew something amazing, you only have 10 bottles of it." My response- "Yea? So?" If I brew something amazing, chances are I'll brew something else amazing, and then perhaps I'll go back and brew that amazing beer again. And again.

5-Gallon brewers are always so quick to tell me- "Why put all that work in for just 10 beers." I'm not sure about you guys, but I don't consider my brew days as "work." I'm an insurance underwriter by day, but thoroughly enjoy cooking and now, brewing. I love the processes, and feel that it actually calms me. So work? I think not...

And lastly, I love the fact that I always have new things coming out of my pipeline. Yea, I just finished up drinking a really great IPA kit, but as sad as I may be to see it go, I can't wait to crack open my Weinstephaner Dunkel clone next! I'd rather have a few of LOTS of things than 50 of the same thing for 3 weeks.

So to all you big boy 5-Gallon + brewers out there, don't be so quick to hate on us 1-Gallon brewers. While eventually we'll graduate to your status, in the meantime, we're totally feeling what we've got going right now, and it's just as enjoyable for us, as it is for you. :rockin:

*Disclaimer*
This thread is not meant to pick a fight or evoke negativity. It is simply in jest, although, steeped in believed truths

I have to agree that 1 Gallon batches are amazing. One thing I have been doing with my 1 Gal batches is trying recipes that I may wnat to scale up. At least i save myself a ton of money by brewing in small batches.

When I have a batch that fails at 1 Gal at least I didn't destroy a ton of grain. And I still get to brew no matter what. So good on you dude. I will share a few one gallon recipes in the coming days as well. I might even try a kit or two this next year.

As a matter of fact, thank you for getting me to consider some new recipes for the coming days and weeks. I guess I need to figure something.

 

[AlexKay]

My typical batch sizes are 1.25 and 2.5 gallons, which I do in an SS Brewtech Mini (5.5 gallon) kettle on my stovetop. (I also do the occasional much smaller batch, but use a different setup for that.)

For the 2.5-gallon batches, I usually drop 5 F over a 60-minute mash, which I've never loved, but it didn't seem too bad, and seemed to still make good beer. In the past week I've been taking a closer look -- that is, frequent temperature measurements during the mash -- and the picture is not a pretty one. It turns out the temperature first goes up by about 4 F over 10-20 minutes, then drops 9 from there. I'm using a glass-top radiant range, so clearly there's a lot of thermal input even after the heat is turned off.

Here is my solution:

I had to muscle it on to my kettle (which is pretty svelte, even for 5 gallons), but it fits well -- so check your dimensions!

I still use my stovetop to get to strike temperature, but then I place the kettle onto an insulated trivet, and turn this thing on. It took some fiddling, but I was able to hold mash temperature at +/- 1 degree, measured every 10 minutes for a 90-minute mash. I've only done it twice so far, so it could get even better once I figure out the details.

It's thermostatted, which might be a good thing, or might not. I'm thinking I might try turning that thermostat all the way up so that it's always on, then using a variable-AC supply I have.

 

[BongoYodeler]

My typical batch sizes are 1.25 and 2.5 gallons, which I do in an SS Brewtech Mini (5.5 gallon) kettle on my stovetop. (I also do the occasional much smaller batch, but use a different setup for that.)

For the 2.5-gallon batches, I usually drop 5 F over a 60-minute mash, which I've never loved, but it didn't seem too bad, and seemed to still make good beer. In the past week I've been taking a closer look -- that is, frequent temperature measurements during the mash -- and the picture is not a pretty one. It turns out the temperature first goes up by about 4 F over 10-20 minutes, then drops 9 from there. I'm using a glass-top radiant range, so clearly there's a lot of thermal input even after the heat is turned off.

Here is my solution:

View attachment 865905

I had to muscle it on to my kettle (which is pretty svelte, even for 5 gallons), but it fits well -- so check your dimensions!

I still use my stovetop to get to strike temperature, but then I place the kettle onto an insulated trivet, and turn this thing on. It took some fiddling, but I was able to hold mash temperature at +/- 1 degree, measured every 10 minutes for a 90-minute mash. I've only done it twice so far, so it could get even better once I figure out the details.

It's thermostatted, which might be a good thing, or might not. I'm thinking I might try turning that thermostat all the way up so that it's always on, then using a variable-AC supply I have.

Will your kettle not fit into the oven for the mash period? When I do 1.25 gallon batches, which is not very often, I move my 4 gallon kettle into the oven for the hour mash. I preheat the oven on it's lowest setting, I think 175° maybe, then turn it off a few minutes before I put the kettle in. It usually holds temperature for the full hour long mash.

 

[AlexKay]

Will your kettle not fit into the oven for the mash period? When I do 1.25 gallon batches, which is not very often, I move my 4 gallon kettle into the oven for the hour mash. I preheat the oven on it's lowest setting, I think 175° maybe, then turn it off a few minutes before I put the kettle in. It usually holds temperature for the full hour long mash.

I'm sure I could make that work, too. It hasn't been as appealing an option, as I'd have to take a couple of racks out, and move the 40-plus-pound hot (and sometimes quite full) kettle around.

 

[PCABrewing]

Here is my solution:

View attachment 865905

I had to muscle it on to my kettle (which is pretty svelte, even for 5 gallons), but it fits well -- so check your dimensions!

When you say you have to muscle it on are you just referring to stretching the springs?

 

[AlexKay]

When you say you have to muscle it on are you just referring to stretching the springs?

Yes indeed. It took a few minutes to do, and was a little hard on my fingers.

If the kettle had even one more inch of circumference, I’d’ve had to swap in other extension springs.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

note: I'm of the opinion that a 4F drop in mash temperature over 60 min is not a problem. Attempting to get to a 1F drop over 60 min was an interesting problem to solve.

For my 2.5 gal BIAB normal & imperial strength batches (1800W induction cook-top, 4 gal kettle), I lose about 1F over 60 min with the kettle sides wrapped (two layers of Reflectix), the lid on and covered (with a bath towel) and a mash cap (floating on top of the mash).

Some additional details

• Early on, I noticed that measuring mash temperature resulted in about a 1F loss for each measurement.
• Leaving the kettle on the cook-top appears to raise the mash temperature about 1F in the first 5 minutes (but this is based on a small number of measurements).
• The mash cap was a simple way to reduce the temperature loss (previously, l was at about a 3F loss over 60 min).
• Temperature loss may be seasonal. This past summer, I was pretty close to 0F loss over 60 min; with the arrival of winter (the kitchen is cooler), it's more like 1F over 60 min.

Normally I measure mash temperature 1) just before adding the mash cap, lid, and bath towel, and 2) at the end of the mash. If the ending mash temperature is within 1-2F of the starting mash temperature, I consider that 'good enough'.

as always YMMV.

 

[AlexKay]

note: I'm of the opinion that a 4F drop in mash temperature over 60 min is not a problem. Attempting to get to a 1F drop over 60 min was an interesting problem to solve.

I agree it's not a problem -- certainly no big deal for just-starting-out brewers, probably not an issue for in-the-swing-of-things regularly-turning-out-good-beer brewers, and really only worth looking at when you want to nerd out in a big away about your process.

That said, what I actually see happening -- 4 up, followed by 5 down -- that bugs me more. Still probably not a problem for those starting out, but worth some effort to try to fix.

For my 2.5 gal BIAB normal & imperial strength batches (1800W induction cook-top, 4 gal kettle), I lose about 1F over 60 min with the kettle sides wrapped (two layers of Reflectix), the lid on and covered (with a bath towel) and a mash cap (floating on top of the mash).

I tried a double Reflectix wrap and it did virtually nothing for me. Maybe I am not a good wrapper. I went and got a mash cap at one point, but never used it, and certainly not with an eye to temperature regulation. I'll have a look at that.

Some additional details

• Early on, I noticed that measuring mash temperature resulted in about a 1F loss for each measurement.
• Leaving the kettle on the cook-top appears to raise the mash temperature about 1F in the first 5 minutes (but this is based on a small number of measurements).

I see a much bigger rise leaving it on the cook-top -- of course, you'd expect this to be different for every cook-top.

• The mash cap was a simple way to reduce the temperature loss (previously, l was at about a 3F loss over 60 min).
• Temperature loss may be seasonal. This past summer, I was pretty close to 0F loss over 60 min; with the arrival of winter (the kitchen is cooler), it's more like 1F over 60 min.

Normally I measure mash temperature 1) just before adding the mash cap, lid, and bath towel, and 2) at the end of the mash. If the ending mash temperature is within 1-2F of the starting mash temperature, I consider that 'good enough'.

as always YMMV.

In my batches up until now, I've had essentially 3 different options:

• Highly fermentable wort, usually from a single-temperature infusion, starting at ~150 F. I've futzed around with Hochkurz and decoction, and honestly can't tell the difference from a sensory perspective.
• Less-fermentable wort, usually mashing in closer to ~160 F. The numbers change a great deal -- much lower attenuation and resulting ABV -- but it's surprising how little difference that actually makes in the beer. Noticeable, but not stark.
• Minimally attenuating wort, mashing in at ~170 F for low-ABV beer.

I very much doubt that +/-1 F control throughout the mash will actually change any of the above, so to reiterate: new brewers, just mash in the pot and don't worry about it.

But what can you do? Nerders gonna nerd.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

I very much doubt that +/-1 F control throughout the mash will actually change any of the above, so to reiterate: new brewers, just mash in the pot and don't worry about it.

to reiterate: new brewers, just mash in the pot and don't worry about it.

For 2.5 gal batches, you and I have different equipment and different approaches to mashing at a [relatively] stable temperature. I appreciate you sharing your approach.

---

And for 1.25 gal BIAB batches (which I never did "figure out"), this is a technique that I agree with (but haven't tried):

When I do 1.25 gallon batches, which is not very often, I move my 4 gallon kettle into the oven for the hour mash. I preheat the oven on it's lowest setting, I think 175° maybe, then turn it off a few minutes before I put the kettle in. It usually holds temperature for the full hour long mash.

 

[RevA]

Not beer. But a imperial gallon of Orange blossom hydromel.

 

[whoaru99]

Hmmm... a 12 pack batch size sounds sorta interesting.

 

[Skeeter686]

I've been toying with getting an AIO for doing tiny experimental batches of about 1.25 gallons. It seems like it could be easier than dealing with trying to maintain temperatures on the stovetop.

However, I'm not sure if an AIO would be able to go that small. I've seen some that claim they'll do 2.5 gallon batches, but when I'm playing around with a new recipe or iterating on something that I'm trying to get where I want it, I don't want more than a gallon or so.

Is anyone here using an AIO for batches as small as 1.25 gallons? If so, what model are you using and how do you like it?

 

[bwible]

I've been toying with getting an AIO for doing tiny experimental batches of about 1.25 gallons. It seems like it could be easier than dealing with trying to maintain temperatures on the stovetop.

However, I'm not sure if an AIO would be able to go that small. I've seen some that claim they'll do 2.5 gallon batches, but when I'm playing around with a new recipe or iterating on something that I'm trying to get where I want it, I don't want more than a gallon or so.

Is anyone here using an AIO for batches as small as 1.25 gallons? If so, what model are you using and how do you like it?

I have a Foundry 6.5 and even with that its hard. The problem with the all in ones is they have dead space under the basket that does not have any grain in it. The 6.5 has just about a gallon of dead liquid under the basket before you add the water that will touch grain. This makes it hard to do real small batches. I do 3 gallons with it all the time. I was playing with the idea of trying to do 1.75 gallon batches, which realistically would be 1.5 gallons going into the fermenter. But I struggle to even work that out.

For real small batches, your best bets are either brew in a bag on your stovetop or just all extract. I have a 2.5 gallon pot and a small wort chiller that fits in it. Yeah it would be nice to have an all in one and temp control but nobody is making tiny electric setups for 1 gallon batches unless you’re going to buy a Pinter or one of those proprietary systems like that. Then they want to hook you into buying their ingredient kits and accessories.

 

[bwible]

Post 7535 I posted a slow cooker I saw at Walmart with a 6.5 qt capacity (how many pounds will that hold?) and a temp probe and temp control. Thats about the closest I’ve seen. It doesn’t have a ball valve or a false bottom. But one could make do with a brew bag. I may revisit that. Its $50, better than the cost of any all in one for something that size

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

I've been toying with getting an AIO for doing tiny experimental batches of about 1.25 gallons. It seems like it could be easier than dealing with trying to maintain temperatures on the stovetop.

You could pre-heat your oven to say 160F (and then turn it off!), then, once you add your grains to kettle and stir in, put the kettle into the oven for one hour. Should keep the heat very consistent. Not sure if many ovens can set a temperature that low (mine won't), so you might need to monitor the oven's temp as it heats up...

 

[bwible]

You oven won’t do 113, 147, 152, etc.

I just looked at the manual for that crock pot. It says in probe mode you can set the temp between 100 and 200 F.

$50. This looks like it would work for grain for 1 gallon batches with a bag

 

[IrondaleBrewing]

Is anyone here using an AIO for batches as small as 1.25 gallons? If so, what model are you using and how do you like it?

My understanding is on the 35L Brewzilla you can do batches as small as 0.8 gallons -- that's the smallest on true AIOs that I'm aware of.

I have a 65L BrewZilla and love it but the smallest batch size on it is 3 gallons I believe.

I'm not sure this quite qualifies as an AIO, but I'm in the midst of tricking out a Gigawort to mostly emulate the functionality of the Brewzilla for 1.5 gallon batches.

Basically where I'm headed is I'll have the Gigawort with a pump along with an Exchilerator Hangover, sparge arm, and whirlpool arm, and a couple of mini ball valves for flow control.

Still piecing it together but I have high hopes! I'll report back after I do the first batch on it. In theory it'll be a nice AIO-ish solution for small batches.

 

[Exception13]

I've been toying with getting an AIO for doing tiny experimental batches of about 1.25 gallons. It seems like it could be easier than dealing with trying to maintain temperatures on the stovetop.

However, I'm not sure if an AIO would be able to go that small. I've seen some that claim they'll do 2.5 gallon batches, but when I'm playing around with a new recipe or iterating on something that I'm trying to get where I want it, I don't want more than a gallon or so.

Is anyone here using an AIO for batches as small as 1.25 gallons? If so, what model are you using and how do you like it?

@Bobby_M did something like you are contemplating as part of a larger project. Maybe this will fill your need?

 

[NewBrewer2025]

I am pretty new to this, but my plan for 1 gallon batches is to do them in either my 1 gallon carboy, or start doing them in my Pinter once I run of the packs I purchased from them. Of course, the Pinter limits dry hopping / adding some things, so those batches will be limited to the recipes that don't include those things.

What I need to get is a carboy with a spigot for these smaller batches, so then I can just use that as my fermenter and bottle straight from there. I hate dealing with a siphoning on these smaller batches.

 

[mac_1103]

https://www.morebeer.com/products/fermonster-1-gallon-ported-carboy-spigot.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/farro-glass-carboy-wide-mouth-airlock-lid-carrying-harness-1.html

 

[bwible]

I am pretty new to this, but my plan for 1 gallon batches is to do them in either my 1 gallon carboy, or start doing them in my Pinter once I run of the packs I purchased from them. Of course, the Pinter limits dry hopping / adding some things, so those batches will be limited to the recipes that don't include those things.

What I need to get is a carboy with a spigot for these smaller batches, so then I can just use that as my fermenter and bottle straight from there. I hate dealing with a siphoning on these smaller batches.

You can’t ferment a gallon of beer in a gallon carboy. You need space for the krausen / foam. Or you will lose a bit of beer. Same as you can’t boil 5 gallons in a 5 gallon pot. Use your 1 gallon jugs for clearing after fermentation.

Go to your Ace Hardware or big box home store and get a 2 gallon plastic bucket and lid. They have them in the paint dept. Should be $5 or $6 for both. Make sure it has a 2 in the little triangle on the bottom. So its food safe. Then you drill a hole in the lid for the small size stopper that fits a beer bottle and use that for your airlock. If you want to get fancy some places sell airlock grommets for the lid.

I’m not affiliated with any store but Northern Brewer sells the big mouth bubblers in plastic and glass, with or without faucets. I have a few of these. I originally bought them for making small batches of mead. But I’ve also started using them for beer. They are 1.4 gallons which gives extra space for fermentation. The giant opening at the top lets you get in there and clean everything without needing a carboy brush so much.

I’d also highly recommend the mini autosyphon and 5 ft of good tubing if you’re going to be doing 1 gallon batches of anything.

 

[mac_1103]

The "one gallon" Fermonster is actually 1.3 gallons. So is the glass equivalent.

 

[bwible]

The "one gallon" Fermonster is actually 1.3 gallons. So is the glass equivalent.

Fermonsters are great. I have a 3 and a 6.5. I wish they made a 5.

 

[AlexKay]

https://www.morebeer.com/products/fermonster-1-gallon-ported-carboy-spigot.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/farro-glass-carboy-wide-mouth-airlock-lid-carrying-harness-1.html

I am very scared of glass fermenters with drilled ports. Perhaps this is because I had one entirely come to pieces in my hands. I would not recommend glass to someone buying new equipment.

I like the little Fermonsters. Buy the lid opener at the same time (there's a checkbox on the page), or
https://www.morebeer.com/products/fermonster-lid-opener.html
I cannot describe how much it sucks to really, really need one of these and not have spent the $4 to get it.

The plastic LBMBs have been out of stock for what seems like forever, but they seem to be back in:
https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/1-4-gallon-siphonless-little-big-mouth-bubbler-plastic
I like these even better than the Fermonsters. They're a little bigger and the walls are a little stiffer.

 

[NewBrewer2025]

You can’t ferment a gallon of beer in a gallon carboy. You need space for the krausen / foam. Or you will lose a bit of beer. Same as you can’t boil 5 gallons in a 5 gallon pot. Use your 1 gallon jugs for clearing after fermentation.

Go to your Ace Hardware or big box home store and get a 2 gallon plastic bucket and lid. They have them in the paint dept. Should be $5 or $6 for both. Make sure it has a 2 in the little triangle on the bottom. So its food safe. Then you drill a hole in the lid for the small size stopper that fits a beer bottle and use that for your airlock. If you want to get fancy some places sell airlock grommets for the lid.

I’m not affiliated with any store but Northern Brewer sells the big mouth bubblers in plastic and glass, with or without faucets. I have a few of these. I originally bought them for making small batches of mead. But I’ve also started using them for beer. They are 1.4 gallons which gives extra space for fermentation. The giant opening at the top lets you get in there and clean everything without needing a carboy brush so much.

I’d also highly recommend the mini autosyphon and 5 ft of good tubing if you’re going to be doing 1 gallon batches of anything.

It’s more than 1 gallon.. it’s whatever Craft a Brew has. Got it from them. The mini auto-siphon would definitely be a good idea for those. The bigger one I have was a pain in the ass.

 

[Skeeter686]

My understanding is on the 35L Brewzilla you can do batches as small as 0.8 gallons -- that's the smallest on true AIOs that I'm aware of.
...
Basically where I'm headed is I'll have the Gigawort with a pump along with an Exchilerator Hangover, sparge arm, and whirlpool arm, and a couple of mini ball valves for flow control.

I was looking at the Brewzilla. That one seemed to have potential, but I don't think I found any confirmation of how small you can go.

I was also checking out the Gigawort, but it seems to be not much more than a commercial coffee maker.