1/2BBL Brewery Build

[dmarc85]

Hers the lastest update on my pump control box. All the wires have been run; 2x 120v loads (one controlled by the mash temp PID). I also have 3x 120v out lines (one for each pump) On my HERMS pump, I have installed a selector switch to allow me to switch that pump on by hand.

The big black box in there is a 24vac transformer which steps down my 120v load to run my 24v water solenoids. Each solenoid has an autofill switch on my control box, each line will have a float switch interrupter to close the solenoid when the pot has filled to whatever volume I desire.





The only potential issue I foresee is overheating...however; I don't see that transformer really getting so hot that anything would melt. Let me know if you think otherwise

 

[dmarc85]

After a good night of wire stripping, crimping, plumbing and accidentally sprayed with water, I'm nearing brewday!

Here's a shot of my solenoids, which are giving me the most trouble; one works great, but the other seems to be reversed and slightly stuck in the on position (this caused me to get accidentally drenched) Next door to the solenoids is my to-be junction box where the float switch interrupters will be put into the equation.

Here's a shot of where my water flow will begin.

I used a T to separate the main line into two. (Each line flows to its own solenoid.

This is my unlabeled pump control box which seemed to work right on the first try

(TOP TO BOTTOM, LEFT TO RIGHT)

1) HLT Autofill - single throw
2) BK Autofill - single throw (for strike water)
3) Pump 2 selector switch - (HERMS PID - OFF - ON)
4) Pump 3 - single throw - ON-OFF
5) Pump 2 - single throw - ON-OFF
6) Pump 1 - single throw - ON-OFF





Under the hood. On brew day I'll get a video going so y'all can see the kettles fill with the flick of a switch

 

[dmarc85]

Upon sober inspection, solenoid 2 was backwards; glad I caught that before someone else did Works like a charm now. I should have the junction box wired by tonight.

 

[dmarc85]

So, tonight my goal was finish wiring my plumbing junction box and test run this beast with water.



I soldered these connections for two reasons; these wires are not anchored and I ran out of small wire nuts...it ended up looking slick and I'm very confident with the integrity of these connections. It may be difficult to see what is what; but essentially, the hot wire for each solenoid is hooked to a switch on my pump box, AND inside the junction box, a float switch is spliced into each of the hot lines (I used a thermostat wire, it's the brown wire) the neutrals are connected without interruption.



For small piece of mind, I gorilla glued the wires in place where they leave the box.



It ran like a dream! I filled my HLT with the flip of a switch, then turned on the ebc and got my HTL up to 160F. If you are unsure about the effectiveness of a HERMS, let me put your fears to rest; it works! I had 70F water jumping up more than 30 degrees in seconds!



Rechecked the boil element. That worked too



Brew day is approaching.

 

[GRBC]

Looks great!

 

[BeerGrylls]

I'm becoming inspired. Thanks for the careful cataloging, it's very interesting.

 

[kal]

For small piece of mind, I gorilla glued the wires in place where they leave the box.

I would not do that. That's not what that glue is meant for. I would use proper strain reliefs going into and out of the boxes instead.

Kal

 

[dmarc85]

Karl, any recommendations on the proper strain reliefs? I can't find anything the right size...


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[dmarc85]

Sorry, Kal. Autocorrect


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[drumuglyknuckles]

Inspiring

 

[muhteeus]

Karl, any recommendations on the proper strain reliefs? I can't find anything the right size...


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See HERE

You need something like 2DPE5 and 2DZG6 for each connector . See bottom left of the pdf in the top link. Hubbell-Kellems brand .

 

[dmarc85]

Brewed a test batch last night with my brother, and had a freaking blast!

The sparge arm actually worked really well. My biggest challenge was successfully manipulating all the ball valves and hoses without losing wort or getting sprayed with water I've got a 15 gallon batch working away in my chamber and I'm feeling proud






I'm definitely going to need a bit if practice to hone my methods, but I'm extremely happy with my setup and will certainly be sharing more experiences as I move forward with electric brewing!




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[Rivenin]

lookin good!

 

[BeerGrylls]

The only thing I would recommend is to investigate pump orientation. Most will say that your outlets need to face up in order to properly expel gas bubbles. Losing prime or churning if there's cavitation ain't no fun.

 

[UCChemE05]

deleted

 

[BeerGrylls]

Most people who know what they're talking about would not say this. Many end suction pumps have horizontal discharges...

I have no idea the specific pump you're using but you could have shorter lifespan due to premature bearing wear if the pumps are not designed to be mounted in that position but considering the duty you'll put them through, you should Still get many years either way.

With the details you put into your build, you probably already thought of this... I haven't read any of this thread but I'd make sure those pump casings don't hold up any water and they're fully drained each time as you'll start growing nasties in no time.

I'm going to guess that you don't own a March or Chugger style pump. The problem with your logic is that this is a non-self-priming centrifugal impeller pump. They rely on a fully flooded housing to begin to push liquid out the outlet. In that circumstance, you want to ensure the outlet is at least the same height as the inlet since the only way to ensure that liquid will begin to pump is to expel all air from the head to avoid churn and cavitation.

Since I don't want to keep on with guesswork I checked with the manufacturers. March suggests a horizontal orientation only. (PDF) http://www.marchpump.com/site/files/966/110094/376709/629697/0750-0404-1000_R6.pdf
Chugger suggests that the pump can be mounted vertically so long as the motor is facing down. http://www.chuggerpumps.com/frequently-asked-questions-home-brewing-pump/product-faq/ So Chugger suggests that this orientation is not problematic for the motor. However I also own these center inlet centrifugal impeller pumps, and have had mixed success with the pumps in this orientation.

Uccheme05, you won't make many friends running around here telling people that they don't know what they're talking about, at best it's rude. If you look at my original post you'll see that I'm only suggesting that it warrants investigation.

 

[dmarc85]

I'm going to guess that you don't own a March or Chugger style pump. The problem with your logic is that this isn't a suction pump, it's a non-self-priming centrifugal impeller pump. They rely on a fully flooded housing to begin to push liquid out the outlet. In that circumstance, you want to ensure the outlet is at least the same height as the inlet since the only way to ensure that liquid will begin to pump is to expel all air from the head to avoid churn and

Thanks for the suggestion. I looked into it and I am certainly considering reorienting them; cavitation was definitely a problem. I am concerned about getting liquid into the motor housing though with the pump mounted horizontally; have you had an issue with this?


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[BeerGrylls]

Thanks for the suggestion. I looked into it and I am certainly considering reorienting them; cavitation was definitely a problem. I am concerned about getting liquid into the motor housing though with the pump mounted horizontally; have you had an issue with this?


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It's certainly a concern, since having the pumps below the liquid is necessary for proper operation, but the disadvantage is that you can splash the motor assembly. An interesting solution was the jig that Kal built on his pump stand that included stainless shields to guard against the accidental splash of wort. Check that out here: http://theelectricbrewery.com/pumps?page=5

 

[dmarc85]

Most people who know what they're talking about would not say this. Many end suction pumps have horizontal discharges...

Judging by your Username, I would guess that you are or were a chemistry student at a university in Cali, Colorado, Connecticut etc.

With such an excitable and condescending tone, I can only hope that you're still an undergrad; an incoming frosh or sophomore at that. Unfortunately, I fear that this not the case because you probably graduated somewhere in '05. Either way I'll chalk up your unsavory post to the disgusting liberal arts higher ed system that plagues the minds of so many bright young people. I only ask that you please take time to actually read my entire thread before making critical comments toward the readers on here who are as passionate about the craft as I am.

And I would seriously suggest keeping your opinions about other peoples' logic to yourself; just like what happened in the last few post, you will almost always make yourself look like an a$$.


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[dmarc85]

It's certainly a concern, since having the pumps below the liquid is necessary for proper operation, but the disadvantage is that you can splash the motor assembly. An interesting solution was the jig that Kal built on his pump stand that included stainless shields to guard against the accidental splash of wort. Check that out here: http://theelectricbrewery.com/pumps?page=5

That's not a bad design; I like how it allows the housing to still vent so well. I may do something similar with a horizontal orientation.

 

[BeerGrylls]

That's not a bad design; I like how it allows the housing to still vent so well. I may do something similar with a horizontal orientation.

I've been putting off building something very similar. I'd like to have some type of quick-disconnect mounting system so that I can attach and detach the pumps without unscrewing them from the base. I was considering mounting them with something like this so that I could just pull the cotter pin and take the motor away without much fuss, in case I want to do something with them.

 

[kal]

That's not a bad design; I like how it allows the housing to still vent so well.

Thanks! That was the intent: Protect from splashes (which actually don't seem to happen much at all given that my pumps are on the lower shelf of the table), but not impede airflow in any way so that they continue to run cool. The back of the fan has a spinning blade inside that keeps the motor cool so you want air to flow through freely.

Kal

 

[dmarc85]

Despite Monday being very much a "learning experience" my first batch managed to survive and is now chugging along inside my conical I pulled a quick sample off the side of my fermenter just to check how far along everything is.



Nice and light, great hop character. I use 1# cascade (75mins) for this 15gal batch. The smell can only be described as hypnotic

So far, everything appears to be in order; however, I noticed that the temperature inside my fermentation chamber will quickly reach an equilibrium with the ambient air temperature...just fine for a warm day, but not so good for the upcoming winter months. Luckily I had a few extra parts hanging around, so I decided to start piecing together a heater for my chamber!



This is all improvised on the spot with materials I happened to have laying around. What you're looking at is an 8" duct fan attached to two reducers. I used a sheet metal knockout punch for the inlets on the bottom.



From above you can see the fan which will sit above, probably 3 very hot halogen bulbs (not pictured). The lights as well as the fan will cycle on and off whenever the temp dropped below whatever minimum temperature threshold that might cause my yeast to start getting lazy. Next are a few extra shots.





It will be a tight fit, but this apparatus will indeed in the back left corner. I may even provide electrical access for my stir plate, that way I can also be whipping up a starter while I'm finishing up whatever batch is in the conical

And, BTW, I reoriented my pumps and I'm anticipating better results for my next batch: porter.



Thanks for following! More to come

 

[UCChemE05]

I apologize for the apparent tone of my post; it was not my intention to come off that way.

My point still stands RE cavitation. The orientation of the pump as it stands will not cause cavitation; it will simply be driven by NPSHa & r. If possible, I would look at following Chugger's recommendation of vertical with top mount motor so the pump casing is self-draining.

 

[BeerGrylls]

I apologize for the apparent tone of my post; it was not my intention to come off that way.

My point still stands RE cavitation. The orientation of the pump as it stands will not cause cavitation; it will simply be driven by NPSHa & r. If possible, I would look at following Chugger's recommendation of vertical with top mount motor so the pump casing is self-draining.

Thanks and understood. There is sometimes something lost in translation with typing to relative strangers vs speaking with us in person. Also don't take me wrong. I have no quest to be right in all things, rather I'm just trying to share my experience, and enjoy doing it.

I think maybe you misunderstood Chugger's recommendation, it reads, "You can mount the pump horizontally, vertically and upside down.* However, if you mount the pump vertically do not have the motor facing up." That said, reality and theory are often two different things. These pumps just plain don't work as well when facing up for whatever reason, in my experience. Dmarc85, I see that you reoriented them. Let us know if you have more or less success with them next time?

 

[UCChemE05]

I think maybe you misunderstood Chugger's recommendation, it reads, "You can mount the pump horizontally, vertically and upside down.* However, if you mount the pump vertically do not have the motor facing up." That said, reality and theory are often two different things. These pumps just plain don't work as well when facing up for whatever reason, in my experience. Dmarc85, I see that you reoriented them. Let us know if you have more or less success with them next time?

Ah, looks like I did misread. Thanks for the heads up. That's unfortunate; it would make for a much simpler design to drain, keep sanitary, and keep clean.

 

[dmarc85]

I most certainly will give an update. With the horizontal orientation, I feel that any air inside the system would get sucked back upward through the pump, eliminating the opportunity to hang out at any junction.

A couple other projects I'll be working on in the very near future will be mounting my chiller and inline oxygenation device. I'll also be converting my large 3-door cooler into a cold conditioning, storage and service station (including taps and growler filler). With luck I'll be upgrading my keg inventory to sankey commercial style as well so that in the future my beer can be served virtually anywhere

My first project will be to finish my heater for the ferm chamber. Plenty to come!

 

[dmarc85]

Ok, so the heater is coming along, but its going to be bit more sorted since I'm going to need a separate piece of equipment to control the heater. In the meanwhile, I've mounted my plate chiller with U brackets and I successfully split my water line one more time to a flow (through a ball-valve) to my chiller.



yes, i have a minivan/grain-getter



I took Kal's advice ad rewired my junction box with proper strain relief hardware. Once it dawned on me that I could simply use a common neutral for both solenoids, I simplified the wiring a bit (it actually looks a lot cleaner



Where did that hop leaf come from?? Must be a sign of good luck!


Thankfully everything was leak free and tested 100% on the first try. My blonde is nearing dry-hoppinng point. My next batch will be a porter, similar to Dechutes. Prost!

 

[dmarc85]

Got my heater constructed tonight. It actually works nicely. I'd say the air blowing out the top is over 100F. extremely quiet and pulls only 175W. The bulb is a red 150W heat lamp I picked up from Home Depot; it's mounted inside the duct with a bulb housing that attaches perfectly in a 3/8" electrical knockout. Im considering a terrarium heat controller for this ($30). Its gonna look so sweet when it switches on automatically to keep my beer above freezing and/or fermenting at a warm enough temp during those miserably cold winter days and nights

Man, that red looks cool.

 

[dmarc85]

Dry hops have been delivered to the fermenter. Liquid chalk markers work great for tracking your beer's timeline. It works on glass or stainless and rinses right off with warm water



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