When my recipe calls for a hop addition at flame out, how long do I leave the hop bag in for before I cool my wort down? Or, is does this addition require that I just leave my hops in for the fermentation period? Not sure I understand how this part o the hops schedule works. How do I do this right?
0 min hop addition
- Thread starter Jacktar
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See... I don't use a hop bag, so this isn't a concern for me. I suspect that additions at 0 minutes are a) for aroma, and b) need prolonged contact with the wort. I would chuck my 0 min additions in the actual wort outside of the bag. This way you can practice that whirlpooling technique for when you do try grain. Also, I've never seen evidence that hop particles remaining in the wort are a concern. Mine always filter out to the bottom of my fermenter.
cluckk
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Using a hop bag isn't necessary. Throw the hops in the wort at flameout and leave them in. If you are going to use the bag it is better if you aren't reaching into your wort to remove it once the temperature drops because you don't want to risk the wort. Just leave it in until you rack the wort into the fermenter and out of the kettle, then simply remove it from the empty kettle.
I prefer aroma additions of 3 minutes when I do use on in the boil. I think it works better personally. And hop sacks keep all that gunk out of primary,which equals a softball size wad for each ounce used in the boil.
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Right, and don't forget that loose hops, pellet or whole, are the bane of plate chillers.
0 min direct flameout and warm whirlpool steep additions are usually implemented for hop forward beer styles like IPAs and APAs. On average, homebrewers are letting them steep in the wort anywhere from 15-80 minutes.
To bag or not to bag... well that is up to you. What I do recommend though is not transferring the kettle hops to the primary. Keep them in the kettle and only transfer the wort. Solid hops in the primary can take up space and lend some off flavors that would otherwise not be an issue if you avoided racking them with the wort. A bunch of old hop matter lingering in a fermenting & conditioning wort, that is already hoppy to begin with, doesn't really taste or smell too yummy. If anything, it's taking away from the beer's potential.
You don't necessarily have to bag your hops. Instead, you can bag the auto-siphon. This will keep most of the particulate matter out of your primary without clogging up the siphon.
To bag or not to bag... well that is up to you. What I do recommend though is not transferring the kettle hops to the primary. Keep them in the kettle and only transfer the wort. Solid hops in the primary can take up space and lend some off flavors that would otherwise not be an issue if you avoided racking them with the wort. A bunch of old hop matter lingering in a fermenting & conditioning wort, that is already hoppy to begin with, doesn't really taste or smell too yummy. If anything, it's taking away from the beer's potential.
You don't necessarily have to bag your hops. Instead, you can bag the auto-siphon. This will keep most of the particulate matter out of your primary without clogging up the siphon.
Or if you use plastic fermenters like I do,use a large dual layer fine mesh strainer to get all the heavy gunk out. Less trub that way come time to rack to the bottling bucket. And cleaner yeast/trub layer if you wash the yeast.
stpug
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Everyone is right!
Toss em in at 0 minutes and cool your brew at some point. Then transfer your brew to a fermenter at some point and pitch your yeast. That's about all there is to it.
How EXACTLY you choose to do it is completely and entirely up to YOU, and it's the right way however you choose. You can put them in a bag, or not. You can let them sit for several minutes before cooling, or not. You can partially cool and then let them sit for a while and finish cooling, or not. You can filter them out so they don't get into your fermenter, or not. You can let them go into the fermenter, or not. You will eventually find a process that you like and that works with your system, and the process you end up using will the the correct process for you and your system.
I'm beginning to think that flameout/0min/aromasteep additions might actually be a good thing in the fermenter to get a little extra umphh! from them, but I have yet to try it so we'll see.
Toss em in at 0 minutes and cool your brew at some point. Then transfer your brew to a fermenter at some point and pitch your yeast. That's about all there is to it.
How EXACTLY you choose to do it is completely and entirely up to YOU, and it's the right way however you choose. You can put them in a bag, or not. You can let them sit for several minutes before cooling, or not. You can partially cool and then let them sit for a while and finish cooling, or not. You can filter them out so they don't get into your fermenter, or not. You can let them go into the fermenter, or not. You will eventually find a process that you like and that works with your system, and the process you end up using will the the correct process for you and your system.
I'm beginning to think that flameout/0min/aromasteep additions might actually be a good thing in the fermenter to get a little extra umphh! from them, but I have yet to try it so we'll see.
I think dry hopping gives way more aroma than late boil additions.
I don't think partially cooling is a good idea. In a certain temperature range the wort is susceptible to bacteria and oxidation.
I don't have much experience but in my last batch (which I haven't tested yet heh) I added hops at 5 min before flameout and will dry hops for 5 days. Hopefully this will give me a nice hops aroma in my APA.
stpug
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I'd agree that at certain lower temperatures you are increasing your chances of infection, however I was not thinking that low of temperatures. I've seen a recommended ranges of 160-180F for aroma steep which is above the threshold of infection (for the most part) and below the threshold of hop isomerization. I've even read posts from folks who have gone lower with successful results. I personally have done an aroma steep at 150F and 175F - the beers came out great.
Here, read more about this:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/how-get-best-hop-aroma-flameout-additions-213803/
This makes a lot more sense now
I wasn't aware of this method, I just though you were talking about partially cooling the wort, which I though wasn't a good advice in general for someone that doesn't know about it!I'll have to read about it now, thanks for making me loose (not) my time reading about beer... :cross:
The temperature/time danger zone is usually quoted at 41-138 F if held between these temps for 2 hours or more. But if you take measures to cover your kettle after the boil and not do anything that might introduce bacteria, you can feasibly leave the wort in the danger zone for much longer without risk of infection.
It seems that dry hopping inthe keg with a tea ball might be easiest. No gunk in the fermenter, no grassy hops taste. I just wonder what the difference will be versus adding them to hot wort. If the difference is minimal and dry hopping is easier, I may go with that option. My recipe is an IPA that calls for 2 oz at 0 min. That's a lot of hops at flame out so I'd like to get the most out of them.
Demonantis
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I have noticed this too. I read some where that this is because of the bubbling pushing hop volatiles out of the beer and airlock so its best to dry hop after most of the ferment is complete.
william_shakes_beer
Well-Known Member
It's really a matter of personal taste and consistency. Select one method and stick with it. As you probably know, the latest hop additions are for aroma. If you do it the same way and you want to add aroma, increase the quantity of the addition. Hops character are a function of wort temperature and contact time. Each method described will change those variables and result in a (slightly) different beer. As long as you standardize your procedure you will be able to recreate the great beer you happend upon the first time. As for me, I have never used a hop bag. I use pellets. I toss them directly into the boil, cool and drop to the fermenter through a fine stainless steel seive that captures most of the hops sludge from the bottom of the kettle.
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