Inkbird itc-308? $35 gets you wired, 2 stage temp controller.

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VolDoc said:
Awesome! Thanks a bunch. So when I place the probe in the fermentation chamber, should it be in the fermenting liquid, or will taping it to the side of the vessel suffice? I really just want to ferment around a consistent 65-68 ambient depending on the beer.
Click to expand...

The general consensus is to tape it to the side of the fermenting vessel but making sure to also tape some sort of insulation over it (foam, washcloth, etc.) to get a more accurate reading of the vessel.
 
blacklabel8829 said:
The general consensus is to tape it to the side of the fermenting vessel but making sure to also tape some sort of insulation over it (foam, washcloth, etc.) to get a more accurate reading of the vessel.
Click to expand...


Thanks blacklabel, you've been a big help. As far as output is concerned, the 308 model should be capable enough to handle a 7 cu/ft deep freezer correct?
 
VolDoc said:
Thanks blacklabel, you've been a big help. As far as output is concerned, the 308 model should be capable enough to handle a 7 cu/ft deep freezer correct?
Click to expand...

It is rated for 1000W(120V) output, so as long as your freezer plus heating element are under 1000W(120V) you should be fine.
 
VolDoc said:
Awesome! Thanks a bunch. So when I place the probe in the fermentation chamber, should it be in the fermenting liquid, or will taping it to the side of the vessel suffice? I really just want to ferment around a consistent 65-68 ambient depending on the beer.
Click to expand...

I control temps by keeping my carboy in a temp controlled water bath. The Inkbird probe is in the water. I initially tried putting the probe in the wort, but that did not work out. By the time the water had cooled the wort back down to the set temp, it was so much colder that it kept cooling the wort far below my target temp. By controlling the temp of the water bath, I find that the wort is typically only a few tenths of a degree warmer even during active fermentation, and after that subsides, is usually within one tenth of a degree of the water bath. So there is way less flucuation of the wort temp. I have a second temp probe that I keep in the wort, just for monitoring purposes.

Others have stated that they had similar overshooting issues with air cooling, but I think that most people using the inkbird do tape it to the side of their carboy and insulate the probe from the ambient air.
 
TxBigHops said:
I control temps by keeping my carboy in a temp controlled water bath. The Inkbird probe is in the water. I initially tried putting the probe in the wort, but that did not work out. By the time the water had cooled the wort back down to the set temp, it was so much colder that it kept cooling the wort far below my target temp. By controlling the temp of the water bath, I find that the wort is typically only a few tenths of a degree warmer even during active fermentation, and after that subsides, is usually within one tenth of a degree of the water bath. So there is way less flucuation of the wort temp. I have a second temp probe that I keep in the wort, just for monitoring purposes.

Others have stated that they had similar overshooting issues with air cooling, but I think that most people using the inkbird do tape it to the side of their carboy and insulate the probe from the ambient air.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips! Cheers!
 
inkbird now sells long temp probes that you can install into an additional hole in the rubber stopper next to the airlock for better temp control... I use the same setup with my stc1000 units... Works very well.
 
augiedoggy said:
inkbird now sells long temp probes that you can install into an additional hole in the rubber stopper next to the airlock for better temp control... I use the same setup with my stc1000 units... Works very well.
Click to expand...

This is what I use: http://www.brewershardware.com/16-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html Fits perfectly in a 3/8" drilled stopper - very snug. Either my Inkbird probe, or the probe from the thermometer I use fits perfectly in this thermowell. But as I stated, for me, the temperature flucuations were too great when I was operating my cooling system based on the temp of the wort. When using farenheit, the smallest differential you can use is 1 degree, and after my wort reached the set temp, it would continue cooling for about another 1.5 degrees, so 2.5 degrees flucuation each cycle. I wasn't satisfied with that. I switched my Inkbird to centigrade, but was still getting nearly a 2 degree F fluctuation. With my current system of controlling the water outside the carboy, my wort fluctuation is only about 0.5 - 0.8 degrees F.
 
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Pic of what? Still waiting on the $5 thermo to get here on the boat from china.
 
jmpreiks said:
Agreed, no application that I can think of.

However, I'm sure some people would be interested if @inkbird wants to make an affordable controller that lets you add a few different temperatures steps with a timer for each. Then, for example, you could set it to 65°F for a few days, ramp up to 75°F for a week, and then cold crash at 35°F for a few days to complete the process.
Click to expand...

This one can fit your need. Six periods of time programs.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Q3K4EI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

More details is here.
http://ink-bird.com/asset/file/ITC-310T_ Manual_ V1.5b.pdf

Thanks.
 
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This looks pretty good, @inkbird. I was ready to order the original one from this post tomorrow, as I just got my chest freezer last night. I'll have to look into this new one you mention a little more. The price certainly seems fair.

Thanks for the information.
 
Just curious:

For those using the ITC-308 as a chest freezer fermentation controller, what settings are you using for HD and CD settings? I don't want to short cycle my freezer.
 
I have the ITC-310T, which works the same way, I believe. I have mine set to 1 on both HD and CD. I have the compressor delay set to 3 minutes. The default on the delay setting out of the box on mine was set to 0, so that needed to be changed, as I also didn't want to short cycle my freezer.

Hope that helps. The unit works great though. I think you'll like it!
 
@inkbird

So I bought a small 5 cu ft chest freezer. The specs say 115V, 1.69 A. I am looking to use the Inkbird ITC 308, but the specs for that say 110V. I would also like to wire in a small heating pad similar to the type used for growing plants. I'm worried about the voltage output and the 308 not being able to handle the load for both the freezer and the heating pad. Any advice on setup or other products I could use to effectively handle the voltage output of all?

Anyone else have any recommendations?
 
VolDoc:

Measure your actual voltage and you may come up with something closer to 120.

I have no problem using this in exactly the same application (bigger freezer though) and love how easy it is to change set points and see at a glance how everyone is doing.

Tom
 
Tegra said:
VolDoc:

Measure your actual voltage and you may come up with something closer to 120.

I have no problem using this in exactly the same application (bigger freezer though) and love how easy it is to change set points and see at a glance how everyone is doing.

Tom
Click to expand...

So your not worried about overloading the voltage on the 308 with your freezer and the heating element? I thought the 308 was only rated to 110 volts? Wouldn't a 115 V freezer plus a heating element cause some overload? Thanks for your help
 
VolDoc said:
So your not worried about overloading the voltage on the 308 with your freezer and the heating element? I thought the 308 was only rated to 110 volts? Wouldn't a 115 V freezer plus a heating element cause some overload? Thanks for your help
Click to expand...

For the purposes of ratings on electrical equipment 110V, 115V & 120V are all the same.

But the ITC-308 outputs are actually rated for use up to 240V & 10A (http://www.ink-bird.com/product/detail/p/ITC-308_Outlet_Thermostat_Temperature_Controller/id/12, click on the "Specifications" tab about half way down the page.)

Brew on :mug:
 
VolDoc said:
So your not worried about overloading the voltage on the 308 with your freezer and the heating element? I thought the 308 was only rated to 110 volts? Wouldn't a 115 V freezer plus a heating element cause some overload? Thanks for your help
Click to expand...


The voltage rating only refers to the insulation rating and the power supply for the control electronics.

I would be surprised if the design (cables and circuit spacing) was not safe for 240v. Many power supplies are also able to handle 240 as well.

So anything from 100-130 should be no problem.

Tom
 
So I am using my Inkbird on an extra Kegerator I have in order to use as a fermentation chamber. I am fermenting an IPA so I need to keep the temp in the mid-60s. Should I plug the fridge into the 'Cool' plug or the 'Heat' plug? How should I set the fridge? Set it at the coldest setting and let the temp controller work it?
 
sleepy_brewer said:
So I am using my Inkbird on an extra Kegerator I have in order to use as a fermentation chamber. I am fermenting an IPA so I need to keep the temp in the mid-60s. Should I plug the fridge into the 'Cool' plug or the 'Heat' plug? How should I set the fridge? Set it at the coldest setting and let the temp controller work it?
Click to expand...

Plug the fridge into the cool side. I'm fermenting right now as well. I have it set at 64 with a 1 degree variant. If it gets above 64.9 I believe it kicks on to keep it at 64
 
I would plug it in the cold plug and set for the coldest setting cause you don't want the fridge stat turning the fridge off before it cools to the temp you have your state set ( not that it would cause mid 60s is pretty warm)
 
New to this, and I know little to nothing about electrical work. Hoping someone can help prevent me from ruining my equipment or setting the house on fire.

I've got a 7.0 c.f. GE chest freezer: FCM7SHWW. Will the ITC-308 be okay with this plugged into cool and the Lasko MyHeat plugged into heat? Thank you!
 
zizouandyuki said:
New to this, and I know little to nothing about electrical work. Hoping someone can help prevent me from ruining my equipment or setting the house on fire.

I've got a 7.0 c.f. GE chest freezer: FCM7SHWW. Will the ITC-308 be okay with this plugged into cool and the Lasko MyHeat plugged into heat? Thank you!
Click to expand...
That's basically the same configuration that I (and I'm sure many others) use. No problems.

Brew on :mug:
 
Tegra said:
The voltage rating only refers to the insulation rating and the power supply for the control electronics.

I would be surprised if the design (cables and circuit spacing) was not safe for 240v. Many power supplies are also able to handle 240 as well.

So anything from 100-130 should be no problem.

Tom
Click to expand...

The voltage is wide from 100V TO 240V. It is safe within this voltage. Pls don't worry.
 
Just got one of these bad boys in the mail. Anyone else get theirs a little... beat up? The packaging and everything looked fine, but the unit's enclosure is a little scratched up. Not too bad, just a little aggravating since it's new and all.

Also, was the backwards wiring issue from early on completely resolved? I guess I can open this thing up and check later.
 
thekraken said:
Just got one of these bad boys in the mail. Anyone else get theirs a little... beat up? The packaging and everything looked fine, but the unit's enclosure is a little scratched up. Not too bad, just a little aggravating since it's new and all.

Also, was the backwards wiring issue from early on completely resolved? I guess I can open this thing up and check later.
Click to expand...

I brought the "backwards wiring" to light originally, and as far as I know it was resolved within a couple of weeks of initial release. I haven't seen any reports of incorrect wiring since then.

Brew on :mug:
 
All- Wondering if I can get some help here.

Back in April I purchased the ITC-308 from Amazon, as most project do, mine got delayed a little. Last night i finally got around to installing the controller on my keezer. I plugged in the unit and set it up with no issues, i then proceeded to plug in the fridge and my GFI popped immediately. I started to trouble shoot. The keezer turns on with no issues when plugged directly into the GFI so i know that is good. I tried plugging in each item separately (but same time) and the GFI pops. Now when i plug in just the 308 without the fridge plugged into it, it pops the GFI. I should mention the GFI is on a 20 amp main breaker. I contacted Inkbird last night, i think the translation software they are using is not translating correctly. They keep telling me i need a 10 amp breaker. I think the 308 might be messed up. Has anyone run into this? any ideas? Did i screw something up?

@inkbird can you help?
 
bigd7270 said:
All- Wondering if I can get some help here.

Back in April I purchased the ITC-308 from Amazon, as most project do, mine got delayed a little. Last night i finally got around to installing the controller on my keezer. I plugged in the unit and set it up with no issues, i then proceeded to plug in the fridge and my GFI popped immediately. I started to trouble shoot. The keezer turns on with no issues when plugged directly into the GFI so i know that is good. I tried plugging in each item separately (but same time) and the GFI pops. Now when i plug in just the 308 without the fridge plugged into it, it pops the GFI. I should mention the GFI is on a 20 amp main breaker. I contacted Inkbird last night, i think the translation software they are using is not translating correctly. They keep telling me i need a 10 amp breaker. I think the 308 might be messed up. Has anyone run into this? any ideas? Did i screw something up?

@inkbird can you help?
Click to expand...

Maybe you got one of the first units with mixed up wiring (switching)?
Check these posts:
#8: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=536763
#53: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=536763&page=6
 
bigd7270 said:
All- Wondering if I can get some help here.

Back in April I purchased the ITC-308 from Amazon, as most project do, mine got delayed a little. Last night i finally got around to installing the controller on my keezer. I plugged in the unit and set it up with no issues, i then proceeded to plug in the fridge and my GFI popped immediately. I started to trouble shoot. The keezer turns on with no issues when plugged directly into the GFI so i know that is good. I tried plugging in each item separately (but same time) and the GFI pops. Now when i plug in just the 308 without the fridge plugged into it, it pops the GFI. I should mention the GFI is on a 20 amp main breaker. I contacted Inkbird last night, i think the translation software they are using is not translating correctly. They keep telling me i need a 10 amp breaker. I think the 308 might be messed up. Has anyone run into this? any ideas? Did i screw something up?

@inkbird can you help?
Click to expand...

thekraken said:
Maybe you got one of the first units with mixed up wiring (switching)?
Check these posts:
#8: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=536763
#53: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=536763&page=6
Click to expand...

The ITC-308 will work fine on a 20A breaker, as that is what I have been using for almost a year.

The mis-wired units should not trip a GFCI as all of the current still goes thru hot and neutral. It's just that the on/off switching is done on the neutral wire, not on the hot wire as code requires. To trip a GFCI, some of the current has to be flowing somewhere other than in the hot and neutral wire (less than 6 mA stray current is all that is required to trip.)

So, it sounds like the unit is defective. Get back in touch with Ink-Bird and tell them the guy who pointed out their original wiring issue (and got them to correct it) thinks it's defective, and should be replaced. (PM me if they ask for my real name for verification.)

Brew on :mug:
 

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