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nchomebrew

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anyone use the small plastic in-line filter from northern brewer that filters down to .023 micron? it's in the aeration section of their catalog, but was wondering if it wouldn't work as a simple filter when bottling. would it also filter out the priming sugar? just part of my ongoing quest to bottle clearer beer. i know, i know cloudy beer tastes just fine, but to each his own. i primary, secondary, and all that. any suggestions?
 
No way would it work. That's just a filter for sanitizing air either for aerating with an aquarium filter or pressure transfers. You wouldn't get any flow trying to filter beer through it not to mention, 1 micron is too fine for beer. Nevermind .023.
 
Look on page 50 of the newest Northern Brewer catalog. There's a cartridge filter system where you can buy a cartridge housing plus a coarse filter for rough polishing and or a 1 micron filter for brilliant polishing.

You can get the same thing at most home depot, lowes or hardward stores with the exception of the jumper hose which you could make up yourself.

There's also a plate filter same page with filters from 1-4 micron for medium, 2-7 microns for course and 0.4- 0.6 microns for sterile.
 
I'm just amazed at how many people are asking about filtering recently. There are a few reasons to filter but a whole lot more reasons NOT to. I'd venture a guess that MOST people interested in filtering do not understand bottle conditioning and/or lack the patience to let a beer clear naturally.
 
Hi Bobby
I pulled up this thread on a search because I am having trouble clearing a beer I am brewing. It just does not seem to want to clear. There is a bit of wheat in the recipe, which I might have double inadvertently. That is why I am considering filtreing this one batch. What's the major downside? Any other ideas?

Thanks
KD
 
I think the downside is really cost, effort, potential contamination, and potential flavor impact. I have had one or two batches refuse to clear and only one of them had any wheat in it. I've had a Belgian Wit become clearer than Coors light by leaving it in the cold for two months. The ironic thing is, I hardly ever use any finings in the boil. My regular process is 10 days primary, sometimes a few days less if active ferment blasted through in 3 days. Primary for one week at ferment temps, then crash cool to 35F for another week. Rack to keg and put it on the gas. I try not to drink for 2 weeks. Prior to cutting a bit off my keg dip tubes, it would take at least those 2 weeks for pints to pull clear. Now that I trimmed them, it's clear by the end of the first week on gas.

If you're at the point where it's in the keg and it just won't clear after 2 weeks, I'd try racking it over into another keg through the lid. You might have a layer of sediment that the beer keeps disturbing on the way out. One way to test is to fill up your hydro test tube and stash it in the fridge overnight. If it clears, you know it's picking up sediment during the pour.

I'm more in favor of experienced brewers coming to the conclusion that they want to filter between kegs but I think most of the filtering questions are coming from noobs who bottled after 6 days in primary and one day in the fridge and wonder why their beer is hazy.
 
in all fairness, this is one subject we have little information on compared to other topics.
I don't filter and my beer is as clear as BMC to.
 
To be really fair, It's far easier for a noob to incorrectly jump to the conclusion that filtering is necessary than it is for an experienced brewer to. Therefore, I safely assume that the majority of filtering questions are the prior situation. ;-)
 
Bobby_M said:
I think the downside is really cost, effort, potential contamination, and potential flavor impact. I have had one or two batches refuse to clear and only one of them had any wheat in it. I've had a Belgian Wit become clearer than Coors light by leaving it in the cold for two months. The ironic thing is, I hardly ever use any finings in the boil. My regular process is 10 days primary, sometimes a few days less if active ferment blasted through in 3 days. Primary for one week at ferment temps, then crash cool to 35F for another week. Rack to keg and put it on the gas. I try not to drink for 2 weeks. Prior to cutting a bit off my keg dip tubes, it would take at least those 2 weeks for pints to pull clear. Now that I trimmed them, it's clear by the end of the first week on gas.

If you're at the point where it's in the keg and it just won't clear after 2 weeks, I'd try racking it over into another keg through the lid. You might have a layer of sediment that the beer keeps disturbing on the way out. One way to test is to fill up your hydro test tube and stash it in the fridge overnight. If it clears, you know it's picking up sediment during the pour.

I'm more in favor of experienced brewers coming to the conclusion that they want to filter between kegs but I think most of the filtering questions are coming from noobs who bottled after 6 days in primary and one day in the fridge and wonder why their beer is hazy.

Very useful information, as usual. How much did you cut off from your keg tubes?
 
So that they sit off the bottom of the keg by 3/8". On some that was taking the entire 3/8" off, on some it was more like 1/4". Some people have also just bent the tube a little but I like how easy mine slide out (no curves at all).

Hack Saw, Tubing cutter, grinding cutoff wheel (my fav).
 
i think my methods would be just fine (primary/secondary/patience/etc.) for clarity IF i kegged, but i don't. i bottle by choice. the thin layer of yeast at the bottom of the bottle is what clouds my beer. just asking a simple question about a filter. i have my answer about that particular filter. but i will not stop looking for better ways to clarify. there is always room for improvement in anything you do.....even if you think you are perfect. even "noobs" could tell you that.
 
That thin layer of yeast is also what carbs your beer. So, you can either filter your beer and have no carbonation, try to not disturb the yeast at the bottom when you pour, or have cloudy beer.

I brewed up a batch of cider a while back and after a month or so, and careful pouring, it was as bright as BMC stuff. No filtering involved!
 
No need to get defensive. Your situation is the exact one I was talking about:

Bobby_M said:
...I'd venture a guess that MOST people interested in filtering do not understand bottle conditioning...

Bottle conditioning means a layer of yeast. If you filter out that yeast, you get no fizz. The only way around it is to keg, then use a bottling filling device out of the keg. That gets you carbonation and clarity in a bottle.

Let your bottles sit in the fridge for a good solid week undisturbed. Then carfully pour (decant) the beer into your glass and leave the last 1/4" behind. It will be clear. If you can leave it in the cold for even longer, it will be even clearer.
 
Bobby_M said:
No need to get defensive. Your situation is the exact one I was talking about:



Bottle conditioning means a layer of yeast. If you filter out that yeast, you get no fizz. The only way around it is to keg, then use a bottling filling device out of the keg. That gets you carbonation and clarity in a bottle.

Let your bottles sit in the fridge for a good solid week undisturbed. Then carfully pour (decant) the beer into your glass and leave the last 1/4" behind. It will be clear. If you can leave it in the cold for even longer, it will be even clearer.

i understand the premise, just want to minimize it, but still carbonate. i thought i read somewhere to let the bottles condition at room temperature for a few weeks so the yeast could react with the sugar. maybe i'll put some in the fridge to give it a try. or possibly room temperature for 3 weeks, and then chill for a week? or cut out one of the room temperature weeks? don't want to nit pick, but looking for a good solid system to follow.
 
You're right. I left out the part about leaving the bottles at room temp for 3 weeks or at least until carbed and THEN refrigerate for a week. Some people store all of their conditioned brew in the basement or closet, then chill it quickly to drink. I used to do that at first. The trick about clearing up a brew in the bottle (and getting the yeast to form a tight little cake at the bottom, is a while in the cold. It also helps get all that CO2 nicely absorbed.
 
I guess I could be considered a noob but I much prefer my kegged (clear) Pale Ale to anything I've bottled. I guess I always try to get too much out of the bottle when I pour regradless of how long its been cold stored. It seems that commercial beers that are bottle conditioned have more stable sediment at the bottom. Maybe they've been bottled a loooong time? Also, non homebrewing friends like to drink from the bottle. I've used Bier Muncher's jury rigged keg bottling sytem before and it worked fine but it reminded me why I hated to bottle in the first place.

BTW Have any of you guys kegged a hefe? My hefe's have cleared in the bottle nearly completely (Weihenstephan) and I was wondering if the same thing happened in the keg? Krystal Wiezen maybe?

Regards,
Al
 
Bobby.

I have a problem when bottling. the auto-filler keeps getting clogged with sediment. I have to agitate the brew when bottling to keep the sugar evenly dispensed. This is why i want to filter, what are my alternatives? thank you
 
BTW Have any of you guys kegged a hefe? My hefe's have cleared in the bottle nearly completely (Weihenstephan) and I was wondering if the same thing happened in the keg? Krystal Wiezen maybe?

Regards,
Al

Keep the keg at or around 40° and it won't clear as much. I also don't cold crash hefe's before transferring. I usually give my hefe's in a keg a swirl once a week, usually before I go to bed.



Edit: Dammit! I just saw the date of this thread! (Grumblegrumblegrumble)
 
SFB, first of all, this is a pretty old thread, next time you should probably just start a new one.
Secondly, I'm willing to bet that you are not racking correctly and collecting all of the trub in your bottling bucket before bottling. Or agitating the beer before racking, therefore putting all that trub into suspension. Be careful not to stick your racking cane all the way down into the fermentor when racking and grab all that trub by starting only a few inches below surface of liquid and slowly lower the auto siphon as the beer level drops. It's ok to leave some of that precious beer in the fermentor if it means that or a whole lot of trub in your bottling bucket.
Keep in mind, with what little information you gave, this is how I have to assume you are doing this. If it's not the case, please give us more information on your bottling day.
 

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