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Brewed the dirty water brown from BCS last week and it came out too sweet (sweeter than I remember). I mashed a bit high, but I think it may be the recipe too. Thinking of dropping the Crystal 60 and upping the Victory to a half-pound, maybe more. I start with 10 gallons of RO and end up with...

Naturally carbonated beers are where pro-breweries and the home brewer are on the same level playing field. By bottling and carbonating via live active yeast, you are protecting your beerfrom oxidizing carbonyls, and capturing delicious hop volatiles that would otherwise be lost to the ever...

Double check with a yeast pitch rate calc. 1 pack for 1.070 seems like an underpitch to me. Especially, since danstar packs hold 1 billion less cells than fermented products (5 vs. 6).

Acidity is acidity when it comes to dark grains. I assume you have bru n' water or are using brewer's friend for a mash water calculator. You'll want to target a PH range between 5.2 and 5.4 Personally, I shoot for closer to 5.4 on dark, malty beers. So as long as you're in the ph range...

You'll get varying opinions on this. Gordon Strong has widely supported the technique where you add dark grains at vorlauf. Brulosopher tested it, and the panel preferred dark grains added for the full length of the mash. I hear good things about cold steeping, but you might as t to boost...

Lots of bottling solutions out there but let's address a few issues. First, there is a difference between cleaning and sanitizing (and sterilizing, for that matter). Homebrewers define cleaning as removing all visible materials from beer contact surfaces (usually via vigorous scrubbing, no dish...

Apparently one of the NHC gold medal winning cream ale recipes a few years back was a 2-row and Willamette SMASH. So brew a light coloured ale and call it a cream ale if you want.

Did it, drank it, and it was good!

Past me: "Hmm, if Crystal malts add nice flavor, I should add 5 lbs of it instead of the 10 oz the recipe calls for." Undrinkable.

Well an easy way around it is to multiply all your malts by three, assuming your efficiency stays the same (which I hear it won't for some reason). New 15 Gallons batch malt bill is as follows: 12 x 3 = 36 lb 2 Row 1 x 3 = 3lb of Crystal 20 .5 x 3 = 1.5 of Carapils

I fermented a bee once. All good. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=7094106

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=94812 Here is a great thread with some info on carbing time, etc. Read all the way to the bottom. You'll be glad you did!

Yup. Aging is mostly OG dependent. Some darker malts will smooth and meld better with time as well, but we're talking weeks, not months. If your stout is 1.055 and lower, I'd primary for 14-18 days, then rack to bottling bucket. Wait a 3-4 weeks for carbing, and voila!

Spice it!I Cinnamon, cardamom, etc.

Post #1001 Many of you have more posts, but I am pretty proud that I have hit 1000. So in honor of a big round number, I thought I’d share a little photo journal of some of my more memorable batches to date. I’m going to post it here in the Beginners Forum because I want this thread to...

Are you pregnant?

Bottom-most link wayyyy down there.. Might have to hit it twice.

Haha, that was the most cordial disagreement I've read on this forum! But yeah, I know where you're coming from regarding the hop flavor and aging, but I think a lot of the hop disipation has to do with the introduction of oxygen during the dry hop process. Oxygenation, as you may know, will...

I don't think you'll lose hop flavor/aroma if you add the hop tea at keg time. If you seal up the keg properly, where are the hops able to go? But to answer your question, I'd go with option #2. After all, if you have a geyser, then you really will be losing your hops - all over the floor.

****Updated**** See post #13 :mug: