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This makes the most sense, except for the voltage measurements and that this is the second SSR to behave like this. @Adrian Gresores From what you describe it sounds like you have a short to ground between your element and SSR terminal 2. Can you take some photos of the actual wiring for us...

Is the element getting hot when it is connected. You should expect to see a voltage difference over the SSR 1 & 2 terminals when itnis "off" as the SSR is essentially an open switch, when it is on you should expect to see 0v. So regarding measuing voltages, what you are seeing is what you...

Might be a loose connector in the temperature probes panel mount socket. Don't know if they are screwed terminals or soldered. The slight resistance change of this joint when it moves about could cause the temperature to jump about. Reason for thinking this socket/connection could be the source...

Yeah looking at the Auber manual too (which from my past experiences the Sestos's were near identical copies) there is no "Factory Reset". A post on a electronics forum (using it for reflow soldering) also confirmed that its a manual process for the Aubers too.

Grounding doesn't protect against what GFCI protect against. Your statement shows that you don't know everything about electrical safety. I still stand by my stance on the "trip the gfci" e-stop isn't best practice but that doesn't mean gfci are not a valid safety device. And all gfci should be...

If you have a 4 pin outlet could you not also wire up an adapter with the 3 pin outlet in a junction box with a short cord - just for those that still need a 4 pin outlet

Personally I don't just do it the first time... but periodically check grounds, ect. in case something has worked loose - I can't trust the guy that built my panel :rolleyes:

Just had a look at the ebay listing you linked to and couldn't find reference to supply vaoltage being 12-24Vdc, only 12Vdc. In other auctions which state 12-24Vdc they normal require you to select which model you want - either 12Vdc or 24Vdc. I know you say you know what you are doing but just...

Not a troll at all - you (and mredge) were right (I'm going to say my head was not in the right space when figuring out if they would blow up or just restrict the flow of electrons).

Correct me if I am wrong but I read the OP as meaning in series with the load. Either way mredge is correct on the wiring. If the lights were in series with the load they would blow as the current drawn by the load would be much more than the light could handle.

Also knowing the limitations of the products helps to prevent some hurt. A lot if the issue with the knock off FOTEKs I have seen documented is the design used multiple lower rated components in parallel, e.g. 2× 20A TRIACs for a 40A SSR with no control to ensure the current is split equally...

If you bought that exact SSR in the link as the other one you have tried the reason that it does not work (Control light not lighting up) is it has a 150-350 VAC input not a extra low voltage DC input that your PID is outputting.

That sounds a bit suspect - after all most factories only have a single feed coming into their buildings so it is going to be on the same feeder circuit from some point. And motor / element is not the same a 240 / 120. I can understand separating the circuit protection for inductive/resistive...

or it is probably just a standard 1" NPT thread. Outside diameter of a 1" NPT is 1.315" (i.e. pretty close to 1 3/8" especially if you are measuring with a ruler/tape measure :)

It sounds like they sell a unit with a single power feed with a hot, hot, neutral, earth plug that is non-UL, as well as the UL separate 240 / 120 plug version. What is weird is their claim that they can not get UL if they use a single plug for both 240 and 120. I don't know if that is true but...

Why? It will just end up with a bigger heat sink to cool both the SSR heat and the additional heat the peltier will add to the system. Besides there is no need for the SSR to be cold, just not overly hot.

Awesome - as with others I have a few different Arduinos collecting dust at the moment. Keen to see more info - user interface, inputs/outputs, etc.

Haha, fair enough. I guess what I meant was one of my main hurdles from committing to my planned upgrade is the daunting thought of the code. While I have some scratching of Arduino code for various prototypes of different ideas writing one all inclusive control system does seem a bit...

Interested... how much effort required on our part? I have been toying with upgrading my system to Arduino based but I can see the big hurdles. Currently I have a 2 vessel (HLT/BK & MLT) electric brewery, single 240VAC pump, PID control. One point I would like to implement is to incorporate flow...

Can the SSR control output from the PID drive 3 separate SSRs? A single 80-100 amp ssr may be a better solution.