working on an electric brewery, simple wiring question

[berlinguyinca]

dear all,

long time lurker, but now finally got around and make an account.

I'm currently working my own version of the electric brewery, but being a fan of software development and statistics I'm planning to only use Kai's existing system as a very very rough guide.

Now I have one, possible stupid question. But how should I wire in status lights.

My first idea would be to do this in parallel.

On the other hand, if the pilot lights would be wired in series, I would have an automatic circuit fail safe. If bulb burns out, everything is off by default.

Which approach would you suggest?

 

[mredge73]

Wire in parallel, the commons tie together and the hot to each switch or output driver.
There is no way to wire them in series and still communicate useful information, the lights will either all be on or all be off.

 

[berlinguyinca]

Wire in parallel, the commons tie together and the hot to each switch or output driver.
There is no way to wire them in series and still communicate useful information, the lights will either all be on or all be off.

thanks.

 

[mattd2]

Wire in parallel, the commons tie together and the hot to each switch or output driver.
There is no way to wire them in series and still communicate useful information, the lights will either all be on or all be off.

Correct me if I am wrong but I read the OP as meaning in series with the load. Either way mredge is correct on the wiring. If the lights were in series with the load they would blow as the current drawn by the load would be much more than the light could handle.

 

[mredge73]

Ah, I didn't read it that way.
You cannot use the light as a fuse, it will current limit you like a resistor.

 

[BrunDog]

Correct me if I am wrong but I read the OP as meaning in series with the load. Either way mredge is correct on the wiring. If the lights were in series with the load they would blow as the current drawn by the load would be much more than the light could handle.

Not to be a troll a-hole, but they would not blow. They wouldn't let enough current flow through them to heat the elements at all, though. That's why parallel is the right wiring.

 

[mattd2]

Not to be a troll a-hole, but they would not blow. They wouldn't let enough current flow through them to heat the elements at all, though. That's why parallel is the right wiring.

Not a troll at all - you (and mredge) were right (I'm going to say my head was not in the right space when figuring out if they would blow up or just restrict the flow of electrons).

 

[berlinguyinca]

Ok I have another related question. I'm using a relay, which can handle 30A, but the integrated terminal connector only fits #4/#6 spade connectors, which I can't really find for 10 AWG connectors.

This is the relay:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R7TTSMI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

and I would run 120V from HOT-1 over it, while running the second 120V line from HOT-2 over a SSR.

Can I use 14 AWG instead? According to the tables I found, it can handle up to 35A and my cable length would be less than a foot to the power outlet.

 

[BrunDog]

Use 10 gauge. Terminals should fit. Yes on your Hot legs.

 

[berlinguyinca]

Use 10 gauge. Terminals should fit. Yes on your Hot legs.

Do you have an example for the connectors? The smallest 10AWG connectors I found so far are these:

10 AWG #6 stud connector

and they are sadly still to large. It's not much, so I might just file them down the fraction of the inch they are to big on the sides. But it's ugly and not perfect.

 

[audiophool]

Do you have an example for the connectors? The smallest 10AWG connectors I found so far are these:

10 AWG #6 stud connector

and they are sadly still to large. It's not much, so I might just file them down the fraction of the inch they are to big on the sides. But it's ugly and not perfect.

This is what I used in mine, at about half the price of the one you linked to. I got mine at Home Depot. It is #8 size, slightly smaller than yours.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-12-10-AWG-8-10-Stud-Size-Spade-Terminals-Yellow-15-Pack-15-116/202522898

 

[BrunDog]

Use square terminals or trim the sides if it's not much material removed. Second option not ideal but sometimes you need to improvise as long as you don't compromise safety.

 

[berlinguyinca]

thanks appreciate and had to trim about a 128th of an inch of each side, so it should be safe. Just not convenient and kinda breaks my build.

It is rather exciting seeing it all come together and starting to program soon! (and make 10 gallon batches of brew to support the coding)