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Ok, quick edit. Since blogger no longer does FTP updates, I switched to wordpress... The new address is: http://www.lancedrolet.com/?p=7

Yeah... the metal can be expensive (especially @ hardware / home stores) it's cheaper online or from a metal yard. If you can get it under $1 per foot, that's pretty good. Mine probably cost somewhere around $200 for the frame (bought a couple of pieces at a time over several weeks). I'd imagine...

1. 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" galvanized slotted angle 2. I used 1/2" bolts, but 3/4" would work. They just have to be long enough to go through 2 pieces of angle iron, a nut and a washer... Words of wisdom?? Just that the more obsessively you plan it out on paper, the better the finished product will...

I've gotten a few requests for info about my all-grain system (dimensions, materials, etc...) so I decided to put it all in a blog post once and for all... If you're interested in building a simple 3-tier, single-infusion, semi-portable, all-grain brewing sculpture without welding and maybe need...

You'd also have to have a way to keep it cool/warm. I'm thinking that thing won't fit in a fridge.... :cross:

Here's one guy that did it: http://www.kettlemoraine.com/mikesbeerpage/gadgets.php

One of my best brewing investments has been my Blichmann 14 gal fermenter. When I got it, I posted on a local brew crew list serve that I needed a fridge. Sure enough, somebody was giving one away... So, I outfitted the fridge with a dual channel temp controller and a fermwrap as a heater... The...

I got it at Bob's Red Mill In Milwaukie Oregon.

BTW, Where in Oregon are you, Nate?

20 cups is much different than 20lbs. Also, could you set that mill to crack the grain instead of making flour? I use a corona mill http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-CORONA-GRAIN-MILL-corn-grain-malt-to-flour-beer_W0QQitemZ4403652897QQcategoryZ38172QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I got...

Here ya go: http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/index.html

I tried one once. It worked fine until it was time to rack. The valve got clogged when I tried to dump the trub. It ended in quite a headache. I think the valve they use is a bit too small for the application. Or maybe I just did something wrong.....

I'm no welder, but from what I've read, there is a difference between a normal weld, and a sanitary weld. A sanitary weld is done in an oxygen-free environment. They use nigrogen to purge the oxygen. I think this eliminates the pitting that can occur in a weld making it easier to sanitize.

What's the volume of that pot?? it's definitely more of a curve than a sanke keg. If you're using a fitting with high temp o-rings, you might have a problem. Even with a keg, you have to tighten the fitting REALLY well to get the o-ring to seal. With a pot like that, I'd think the best way...

I'd really think about adding SOME kind of filter medium. My first attempt was without a filter, and it clogged several times in the first batch... Had to tilt the kettle into a strainer to empty it (and what's the point of having a valve at that point?) After that, I got a bazooka screen which...

Mine's about the same way (converted kettle, fitting above the seam). I use a couple of pieces of copper pipe with an elbow to reach the bottom (no tilting). It's held on to the bulkhead with a compression nut and I haven't had a problem yet.

By the way, mine is: [email protected]

I'd definitely be interested. What kind of info is kept in this program??

Before you go that route, check out the 'beginner kits' that your local homebrew store has. They are more upgradable (I brew all grain, and still use most of the tools from my first 'beginner kit'), offer better control (beer mix, and 'booster pacs' are easy, but you don't get to decide much...

When sanitize the secondary fermenter (carboy or bucket), I fill it with solution. Then I throw in the air-lock, hose cane, and whatever else is going to touch the beer. Let it soak for 20 min. Then I use the cane and hose to drain the solution into the sink (this takes care of sanitizing the...