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I would recommend the same thing. I have a dual regulator and send one out to all my serving kegs (this would be your 5-8 psi) and leave the other one off unless I am carbing. I force carb, but you could have that be your variable carbing pressure. Not sure the volume you go through, but if...

So I get that conversion should be complete, but isn't part of the benefit of raising temps for a mash out to "thin" the wort so you get better sugar extraction? If that is fiction, I sure as heck will stop spending time 10 minutes a batch stirring in a steam cloud.

Personally, I use a bag from bagbrewer.com and really like it. The wilser bags look nice, but I like the straps on mine quite a bit and it has been a very durable bag for me. Guessing I have 35+ brews in with this bag. Probably due for a new one as I am noticing some wear and a couple of...

Assuming you are letting your sample cool before taking a reading, this is very important. Your numbers are way off (on the low side) until the sample comes down under 70 degrees. As was mentioned, preboil will never be close to target OG, sugars are diluted at this point. You also said...

I BIAB and have added a 2-3 minute stir at about 30 minutes in on every mash in addition to a 5 minute stir at dough in. I have found that my efficiency is much more predictable now since adding this step, especially on higher gravity beers.

I second this. Your yeast is going to take a little longer due to the low temp you started it at, but if you let it rise to the yeast's preferred range it should "wake up" and start eating. If you followed sound sanitation practices the delay should not hurt you. If you don't see krausen...

If you turned malt derived sugars into alcohol using yeast in your home you are a home brewer. Hopped extract, extract + specialty grains, BIAB, 10 gallon HERMS, whatever.

I use a small reptile heater (sorry, don't recall the wattage) and place my carboy on top of it. Although it warms slowly, it still seems to do the trick. You may find that placing the pad underneath as opposed to along the side will be more effective for you.

I say pitch away as well. Pretty sure adding hops would not stop anything that has started and your best bet would be to get a healthy fermentation going with your yeast.

I started with PBW and have since changed over to Oxyclean and to date have had no issues with either. I think you need to watch your soak temp though. I soak mine in reasonably warm water but not scorching hot. ends up taking a little longer this way, but I usually just keg in the evening...

I would second this approach. Ensures you end up with the yeast counts you want and clean, healthy yeast.

Awesome work and great job documenting it all. Definitely following this.....

I often neglect to take a second FG reading. If it is in range, has been in the fermenter for an acceptable amount of time and the sample tastes good, I start to cold crash. Less risky when you keg though, but I am sure I would end up with a more repeatable product if I made sure the darn...

I would second "Designing Great Beers" I reference the information for the style I am interested in creating and then use Beersmith to actually build out the recipe on my system.

From what I have read (mostly on this site) is those who add and are concerned with infection either boil to create a tea and add or create a tincture with vodka and add. In both cases I have seen those who add just the tea or both the tea and vanilla. Even a quick search on this site...

Go for it! Personally, I would pitch the yeast and then transport to keep it all sealed up but 30 minutes is probably not a big deal. Safety first though, make sure that wort if belted in! A quick stop could make for a very sad and sticky situation....

I BIAB as well and will check on the temp 1-2 times during my 75 minute mash depending on the external temps. I could probably hold the temp better if I used better insulation. For the moment, just a couple of towels/blankets. I usually end up dropping 1-2 degrees every 30-40 minutes so I...

Yes, your dip tube will be above the liquid line when you are about half empty and you just be pouring CO2. You also do not want to give the beer a chance to flow up the gas out tube. A big no-no.

I picked up an RV filter and it seems to work fine for me. If there is any chlorine/chloramine left it is not enough to affect taste or fermentation.

Personally, I would take another gravity reading to make sure it is done unless you do not want it to dry out any more. Since you are kegging, I guess you can package even it is not totally fermented out with no concern if you are happy with the flavor. It is also possible you have diacetyl...