Search results

Not everywhere has a deposit system like CA or MI.

Indeed. This is the only hobby that I'm aware of that produces beer.

More power to you if you have time to brew on Wednesdays and make a video of it.

Add sugar to the bottling bucket. I have almost forgotten this way too many times. A good brewing assistant helps avoid gotchas.

Maybe a bit, but not really. If you're really concerned about clear beer, you could always cold crash it. Me, I'd just leave it for another week and follow all of Hammy's other excellent advice.

I can agree with this much faster than I can pick my ideal IBU.

The only advantage to dark bottles is that they keep light out. If the beer is stored in the dark, there is no advantage. Kegging won't improve your beer. It will only ease packaging and access.

Harvesting yeast with less non-yeast material is the only benefit I can see. I've even harvested yeast from a primary that I've dry hopped in. This was lazy, and it worked fine. However, I try not to do it, since it's much harder to gauge how much yeast you're actually pitching. I almost...

I thought it was more productive to answer the question than to react with the hostility sometimes (rarely) thrown around on these boards. I, too, often miss crucial information in my first read of a post. Cheers :mug:

I would say 1.016 is a fine finishing gravity for most beers. Sometimes it's desirable to go lower, but I wouldn't worry about it. If it tastes great, you've done well. After 2.5 weeks, I'm pretty sure it's done. No harm in taking another hydrometer sample, though. Enjoy!

If you have the money to keg, and you don't mind only having as many varieties as you have kegs, I think kegging sounds wonderful. For me, I'd rather spend my beer money on more ingredients, and I love having a ton of variety on hand at any given time. I'll be bottling for the foreseeable future.

Welcome! I'm sure you'll find HBT is the best homebrewing resource on the interwebs, period.

If you can keep them dry in the refrigerator, I imagine that would be good. I usually just keep mine in a cupboard.

They should still be fine. Your LHBS is correct that milled grains should be used sooner rather than later, but I think if they're kept dry, no harm will come to them within a few weeks.

You are not insane. They are the same thing. In the recipe, "Bittering" and "Aroma" just indicates how the hops are being used, not what type of hops are being used. All hops can be used for either bittering or aroma, although some are better used for one purpose or another.

I second all of this.

I don't use a secondary. I have often left beer on the yeast cake for over a month with no ill effects. I'm not unique in this regard. If I did use a secondary, I would wait for fermentation to finish before racking. I would not pick an arbitrary number of days (5-7), but instead make sure...

The only places I've bought extract kits from, Austin Homebrew and Northern Brewer, were both great.

There is nothing wrong with this. I bottle and don't have any plans for kegging. I always have more variety available than if I was rotating a few kegs at a time. You might try a partial mash or two. It's an easy way to learn the ins and outs of all grain brewing without any real risk. I...

Dry yeast is cheaper, has a longer shelf life, and you get more of it in a package. I actually did a comparison in a blog post. Liquid yeast has more variety, but I've found no other benefit.