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I'm looking to buy a 3500W screw-on heating element (240V) that is ULWD (or LWD) and "all stainless", including a stainless steel base. All that I have found are 4500W or 5500W, but I need one that is suitable for use with a 20A GFCI. Anyone find one for sale to USA or Canada?

I'm planning to directly pitch dry S05 into kettle soured (boiled and cooled) wort pH 3.5-3.8. Should I treat the SO5 yeast any differently than normal? I'm thinking that due to the pH I may need more yeast and slightly warmer than my usual lower temp (18.9C; 66F) fermentation. I still want a...

I'll probably use a nylon bag. I just hope that the bag doesn't plug the dip tube. I'm not sure a screen on the diptube would help prevent the bag from plugging and I suspect the screen would get clogged with fruit puree if I didn't use a bag, especially under CO2 pressurized transfer to keg as...

I gave up the chrome faucets too. There were no bad reviews of them when I bought them. We should get the word out.

I've started fermenting in a sanke modified with a triclover fitting and ball locks (the Unifermenter by Synergy Brew Systems). The dip tube is raised about 1/2 inch from the bottom to avoid trub. Beer is kegged by CO2 push to cornies (closed system). I'd like to add fruit at the tail end of...

Thanks. I can't measure flow rate with my regulator, but I simmered it for about 40s.

As I understand it, you oxygenate with a 0.5 micron stone for about 30s for a 1.055 wort (5 gal). If you have a 2 micron stone, how long?

WTB: 15 gal corny. Located in Vancouver, BC Canada but can pickup from shipping depot in Point Roberts or Blaine, WA.

Haha. Good point. Cheers for responding.

Ohh, I get it. Haha. Thanks for sharing this! I won't take any chances. Happy to have learned from your experience.

I was actually thinking of fermenting about 11 gal in 15 gal, either a corny or a converted sanke. Same principle should apply, though. Unless the krausen is really high, there should be no problem. I have seen huge krausens though for a WLP300 fermentation of 21L in a 30L Speidel...massive blow...

Thanks you two. So, unless I can be confident there's no serious hop chunks or other particles in the trub, then remove the poppet. I guess I can put it back after fermentation slows down and any O2 introduced at that point will be scrubbed by fermentation. Then I can swap blow off tube with CO2...

Anyone ferment in cornies with a blow off tube attached to a disconnect to the gas in post? Seems elegant but ocurred to me the poppet/post/disconnect could clog. I like the idea because I could just swap it out with a CO2 line with disconnect for pressure transfer without opening the fermenter...

Thanks. Any idea if the spigot is still good to use in the fermenter. It doesn't look rusty, and I can't imagine speidel using lead in their brass. I guess I'm asking if the exposed brass will be susceptible to rust or leaching lead or other bad stuff in an acidic beer/starsan or oxidizing pbw...

I clean and sanitize the chrome Speidel faucets for the speidel fermenter in pbw (30min) and starsan (2-20min), but can't remove what I'm seeing in them and now believe it is discolouration or damage from my beer (acidity) or my cleaning regimen. I have two and they both look the same and it...

Thanks. I will try the stability test and maybe also measure a commercial beer as a comparison. I am doubtful that there is an infection though. I was as careful as I have ever been and am not aware of any bacteria that would raise (instead of lower) the pH. Plus, it tasted quite good before...

I transferred a hop-forward medium IBU pale ale (fermented 1 month in primary) to a keg for dry hopping. It tasted fine but its pH was a bit high at 4.5 and it appeared to have attenuated a bit poorly (higher than expected FG). I then left it in the keg with just enough pressure to seal the keg...

Interesting. So are you saying the plastic spigot on the top doesn't seem to leak CO2 during the maturing phase of fermentation? I assumed it would leak.

Curious how you are purging with only a single opening for the CO2 (no air out opening). Do you hold it on, pressurize (low psi), lift the cap, repeat?

I have done this once with my 30L and like it but am thinking of refining it. So that I won't have to switch the airlock with the valve/tubing combo (introducing air) to transfer, I was thinking of using the valve/tubing as a blow off during fermentation and then closing the blow off valve...