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I haven’t had that Eddyline DIPA so I can’t comment if I’d be searching for the same yeast character. Typically a banana character from isoamyl acetate would be considered a fault from that yeast and that beer style. The breweries description of the beer also doesn’t indicate that profile. Is it...

I really don’t have much stake in this years playoffs but if Bobrovsky plays like he did last night the Panthers will go far.

Drinking a few fresh Oberons and attempting to harvest some yeast for an upcoming clone brew.

Congrats! My wife loves everything in the German wheat family. Thinking of brewing a dunkelweizen for the fall. Care to share your recipe?

We’re just brewing the traditional way. I was always told Belgian brewers didn’t clean for risk of altering the symbiosis.

Seeing but ignoring was one thing but not even knowing how bad it could be…might just continue living in ignorance.

You ever go a little too long since your last full brewery scrub down and watch in disgust as the PBW does its job? I scrub down and rinse immediately after using each vessel on brew day and will pay extra attention if I see noticeable scum, but over time it still builds up. Did a full hot PBW...

I haven't been brewing consistently over the last few years and having a 10 month old makes it even more difficult to change that, but hoping to refocus on some aspects I've gotten lazy on (checking ph, checking gravities during brew not just prior to pitch, consistent water additions, better...

You might not need the full volume if you're looking to save money on future batches. Mr. Malty has a repitch calculator. You may only need 100-200ml depending what you're brewing.

I would stick to real vanilla. I make an irish stout with coffee and vanilla beans. I basically dry hop with whole beans and split and scraped vanilla beans. Amazing flavor.

My first question would be what do you want the malt/hop balance to be like? If you go too hop heavy, with such a light-ish malt base you could end up with a lower grav IPA (fine if that's what you want). If you are going for a more traditional pale ale malt balance but with the hop character...

Greetings fellow Dan. As you state 48 hrs or so is fine on the starter. Just swirl it up and dump it into your wort. Use your hydrometer to check fermentation - a couple days of stable readings if you are impatient - or just leave it 3 weeks. If you want to rack it after primary fermentation...

I use a spoon.

Make another beer. Make it higher gravity - OG 1.050+. If it still reads close to 1.000 then "maybe" you have a wild yeast contamination. I'm going with a miscalibrated hydrometer plus very low gravity to begin with so the margin becomes smaller.

concur. totally fine. RWDHAHB.

I'm also a huge fan of 1318. I switched to it for most of my ales from 1056 and have been happy with the change in nearly all my recipes. That being said, I've enjoyed reading some of the yeast genotype articles out there and plan to do a similar split batch experiment on my own IPA. I'm...

What kind of malt bill, whats your yeast, whats your fermentation process? I would think those type of flavors would be yeast contributions not hops.

Always enjoy a nice malty lager or brown ale in the fall. I definitely don't let seasons dictate what kind of beer I'm drinking, but there is just something nice about a crisp evening and a malty beer to go with it.

Thanks for the responses everyone. Looks like I'm going down the yeasty rabbit hole. I'm actually planning to brew my IPA and split into several smaller batches to do side by side yeast comparisons. That yeast genotype data will be helpful in planning.

I'm sure I'm just not using the correct search terms but a forum search and google search turned up no results. What I'm after is a list of 2206 = x brewery; 1318 = y brewery. This may not exist for every strain, but I know I have seen throughout various threads and sites info about which yeast...