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From what I've read, IPA should be dry, mashing low helps it ferment out, for a more malty style like Scotch ale, or stout, mash high. Some people even add corn sugar to dry out an IPA.

rapgenius knows

You may find that it won't be fully carbed if you bottle 4/28, and drink it 5/18. Depends on your gravity, but higher abv beers tend to take longer to carbonate. I would try to give it at least 4 weeks for bottle conditioning, if you can. That would mean bottling 4/20. You can try brewing the...

I like the amount of hops, I don't think you can add too much from 5 min to flameout. We are talking about IIPA here. This guy on basic brewing http://traffic.libsyn.com/basicbrewing/bbr04-12-12hopbomb.mp3 added a kg of hops at flameout, and it actually tasted pretty good according to James.

I shop at Golddiggie's. Custom made mash tun, immersion chiller, brew kettle, and the prices are good. :mug: I went through a progression where I bought kits from the LHBS in the beginning, then used the brew builder from Brewmaster's Warehouse. Now I get bulk hops and grain, and just use the...

It works well enough that I have used it for 3 batches now. I always knew I would lose one of the parts to my bottling wand, but I'm surprised it didn't happen before my 53rd batch.

39,613 + 22*5 = 39,723

So it turns out that the gose style has experienced a small resurgence in popularity. Sam Adams makes Verloren, which is limited release, but you may be able to find some. Also, a gose took gold in the Category 23 in the Boston Homebrew Comp in 2012.

Maybe the link is wrong, but I didn't see any acidulated malt in that recipe. The grain bill is "70/30 mix of Pils and Munich malt", no room in there for 2 lbs of acidulated malt.

Yeah a good way to find good recipes is to look at a recipe category and then sort by Views, the good ones rise to the top, probably anything on the first page is worth making.

Admittedly I'm not up at 1.124 (or 1.132!) but these recipes all use more than 2 lbs of black or roasted malt (per 5 gallon batch): https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f68/double-w-imperial-stout-74932/...

I knew it would go missing eventually, but I never got a backup bottling wand, so I finally lost the tiny black valve. MacGyvered it with a drywall screw.

Yeah I probably would have done 1.5 packets if I remembered. I occasionally have a 0.5 packet lying around after using 0.5 to bottle up a high gravity beer that has been in primary for >4 months.

I kinda did the exact same thing to a recipe I've brewed several times, the old reliable Founder's Breakfast Stout clone. 16 lb 2-row 22 oz. oats 1 lb roasted barley 1 lb debittered, black malt 2 oz. coffee 2 oz. cocoa 1 oz Millenium pellet hops (64 min.) 1⁄2 tsp. Irish moss (last...

#55 Oatmeal Stout #54 Barleywine #53 American Black Ale #52 IPA #51 American Brown Ale #50 Imperial Red #49 Brett IPA #48 RIS #47 IPA #46 IPA #45 Amber Ale #44 American Black Ale #43 IPA #42 American Black Ale #41 IPA #40 Imperial Red #39 Amber Ale #38 American Black Ale #37...

I wish I was a little bit taller

Looks good. If you're in the Boston area, you may want to come to a Worts meeting (if you haven't already). Also a few things i noticed, you don't need a fermometer on the outside of your cooler mash tun, won't read the temperature of the wort through the cooler wall. Also, you probably don't...

Another point of reference, after comparing the beer with no flameout hops and the beer with no dry hop, James Spencer (of Basic Brewing) mixed them both together. The point being, there is a reason why we do both flameout and dry hop, it tastes better.

I agree with what has been said, also I think they agreed that the late hopped one retained more flavor over time but the dry hopped version had better aroma that faded more rapidly. Two blind tasters correctly identified the dry hopped beer when told the nature of the experiment.

Basic Brewing just answered this question in the Nov. 29, 2012 episode. http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio