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Just FYI, you can change the extension of your recipe to .xml and it will display as a beer.xml compliant file which you could hopefully import elsewhere. My username on hopville is sweatje Regards, Jason

I have been using this Grizley Grain Mill I bought for $24 from Amazon for close to 20 batches with no sign of trouble http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E34C5M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Look for yellow or brown colors for signs of oxidation. Best indicator is the aroma, if you still have a clean hop smell, you still have good hops. Hops in the freezer can be preserved for years without significant degradation.

I thought the same, perhaps keeping low initially and only raising for oxygenation when temp is down sufficiently. The Brew Strong episode on Hot Side Aeration seem to indicate there is very little chance of hot side aeration actually adversely affecting the flavor of your beer, whereas not...

An idea came to me at the tail end of this weekends brew session. I recently purchased a paint stirring bit to help mix my mash and potentially oxygenate my wort. I have an immersion wort chiller, but can't do whirlpool at the moment because I do not have a pump. My thought was to use the...

You MIGHT get full conversion that fast, but not likely. I typically mash for 60 minutes to ensure full conversion without testing.

Buy a cheap refractometer on ebay and you can measure hot. An essential tool for AG

I think the advise to raise the mash to 170 with sparge water is to denature the enzymes and end the mash. Additional water would only rinse sugars instead of potentially continuing the mash and adding additional sugars. If you already have complete conversion, I don't think it really makes...

Hi Mick, I live in the quad-cities. If you head over to Chicago at some point, see if you can get to http://www.countrymaltgroup.com/ They have some fantastic grain prices, but shipping would kill you. You have to phone in your order ahead of time, and they will have it waiting for you when...

Oh, and forgot to mention there is an excellent thread on washing yeast stickied in this forum: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/

In short reply: don't Longer: you will most certainly exceed the recomended pitching rate for whatever style you are brewing, may pick up autolosys(sp?) flavors from the dead yeast, and additional off flavors from the remaining trub. Take a listen to yeast washing...

You might want to look at the second calculation http://onebeer.net/refractometer.shtml which if you know the OG, will let you adjust for the angle of refraction changes based on the alcohol and give you and FG using the refractometer. HTH

One this which made a tremendous difference for me was to buy a roll of 20" x 10' aluminium flashing at a hardware store. I then cut it in half to get a 5' length, and wrapped this around my brewpot and burner, holding it together with a c-clamp. I used most of a tank of propane on a single...

I think his point is he has already mashed out and has low gravity and is trying to correct on the fly. Your approach would work for his next attempt at the same recipe if there were no other process influences though.