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Good to know, I wasn't able to find names associated with Tilt (I admittedly didn't try that hard). I've also learned some things about patents here and will respect their rights and wont discuss it further.

As I understand patents (I'm an engineer, not a lawyer) nothing in this thread would be an issue. Patents protect them against someone selling something that violated it not discussing it. Also, unless this is the same guys they're probably out of luck as prior artwork exists...

I've been giving some thought to this (more than I care to admit actually). My plan has been to respin this into a custom board using an ESP32 (In part because it has bluetooth, and in part because I've been looking for an excuse to play with one.). By building a custom board I'm pretty sure I...

This is a purely manual function, when you turn on automatic mode it will output a pwm wave at the specified duty cycle and period. You can use the temperature setpoint to set the duty cycle, but that's really a hack, it doesn't control to temperature, if you set the setpoint to 50, you get 50%...

You would hook the heater up to a GIO through an SSR, the same as if you were going to use PID control. Then under Kettle Configuration you can select PWM for Control Logic.

PWM was a feature I was also wishing for, and lacking the excuse of not being a programmer, I took a stab at adding it. I ended up creating a new "automatic" called PWM that lets you specify a period and duty cycle. It has the option to allow the target temperature to be interpreted as duty...

It'll probably be marginally easier to reattach the terminals. It would take more heat to heat the wire than just the terminal. If you don't heat it right you'll be right back where you started with a weak joint.

Did the board break, or did the screw terminals pull out of the solder? The solder/process they use isn't very good. When I built mine I had the terminals pull out of the board. I was able to re-solder them without a problem. There is no reason I can think of that soldering directly to the board...

I'm using the PP15/30/45 housing and the PP45 contacts. They slide together so you can build up whatever configuration you need. Here is what mine looks like (pardon the crappy construction, the box was salvaged from the trash...)

I haven't seen them mentioned on this site before, but I used Anderson Power Pole connectors. They aren't water proof if that's a concern for you. My control box isn't either so I wasn't worried about it as I only used them on the control side. They have contacts rated for up to 45 amps...

I'll take a coupon. Thanks!

I'd also be interested if this happens again.

To beat the dead horse, I've attached a plot of the temperatures in my fridge. There is a 5 gallon batch in there now that is going on 5 days. You can see that slight change in ambient temperature has a big effect on how often the fridge needs to run. You'll be better off with a controller of...

My wife feeds it to her horse in small doses, beats buying treats.

I'm in.

Thanks for the sugestions The colapable containers would offer good fexability (pun intended) but as revvy points out, getting them clean would be a concern. I like the idea of the vittals vaults, do you happen to know what size is needed for 5 gallons?

So I've put together a fridge with a temperature controller for fermenting, however the empty freezer compartment seams like a waste of space. I was thinking it would be good for lagering in. I'm pretty sure I can work out the temperature control issues, but my problem is an appropriately shaped...