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What remaining water? You mean enough to fill the container? Yes, add it if there is not much foaming. You will want to eventually keep the oranges under the liquid.

Remember that the campden tablet isn't pure k-meta. It's got binders, etc, in it. For example, in winemaking, you add one crushed tablet per gallon of wine- yet with the straight powder you use like 1 grams of the powder in 6 gallons! So I'd recommend using the k-meta powder for this, not...

It is for me- I love most hops and most beers, but fuggles tastes like dirt to me. Like you said- not 'earthy' or 'dank', but straight up soil. It smells like dirt and tastes like dirt to me.

I don't make many UK styles of beer lately, and I have no idea why. But I have routinely used EKG (my favorite), Brewers Gold, Challenger, Target, and Northern brewer. I dislike beers made with fuggles, but before I decided it was fuggles and not my lack of brewing skill, I used it a few...

I use a mix of apples- sharp, bittersharp, sweet- and press and then ferment with S04. It gets pretty close to dry, which I like, but can be sweetened with fresh cider to your taste once stabilized. I don't like a 10% cider- it's too wine like and 'hot'- but if you do, you'll need to add some...

Sure you can recirculate with that. However, the photos that links to shows a Brewzilla whirlpool arm most clearly which circulates to the bottom, not near where you're going to want to recirculate. Can you give us a photo of what you actually have to ensure we give the best advice?

Best wishes to you in the future. I've been around a long time, and have seen others make a similar decision. I hate change, but I know that change is growth. You will be missed.

Yep. I only step mashed once. It wasn't great- the bottom got really hot, but even with recirculation and then adding alot of stirring, it took forever to reach 158F in the grainbed (it was a pilsner). It's a 240V, but it's so tall and deep that there are definitely issues with the bottom...

No, it shouldn't. It should be fine.

No, not necessarily. I mean, when people bottle, do they top off with CO2? Don't allow a ton of headspace, and think of the keg as a giant bottle.

Yes, possibly. Once the the fermentation has slowed/ended, if you rack to another vessel, it should be with no headspace, and a narrow opening like a carboy, not a wide bucket with headspace. Did you use any sulfites? If so, it may possibly be ok but it does look suspicious. Next time...

I don't think they are 'harder to make'.

What is your brewing set up going to be?

I use a chaptalization calculator, usually the one on Brewer’s Friend. I usually target 1.090-1.100 for table wines. https://www.brewersfriend.com/chaptalization-calculator/

Me neither- in fact sometimes I use 002 for my American IPAs at a lower temperature too, because I like it. Not too many esters at all, and pretty nice malt flavors and yet the hops and bitterness still shine. Never picked up diacetyl in it.

I avoid hazies whenever possible. Sometimes at a brewpub, it’s one of only a few choices. I just don’t care for them. Not because they are hazy necessarily- but because I love IPAs with firm bitterness and a clean malt backbone and I’ve just never found a hazy that I really liked. I never...

Remember that in order to have vinegar, you have to do the alcoholic fermentation first, and you generally want a lower ABV wine to start with. So I'd use your fruit, and consider a fairly low OG. Somewhere to give you a 7%ish wine. You can get that with ale yeast or wine yeast, and wine yeast...

I do like my IPAs fairly dry, but for a nice firm bitterness and a lot of hops you also need a strong malt backbone. If it's too dry, you lose that balance. I didn't look up the IBU:OG ratio you have there, but it does look like a nice balance of hops to OG.

I'd skip the amylase- you don't want it too dry. And I don't use ALDC but it wouldn't hurt. I do not know much about Stata hops, but the hopping looks good. I like a target mash pH of 5.25-5.3 for my IPAs. I would increase the sulfate in your water, using gypsum, up to 200 ppm or so.

No. Chalk is almost impossible to dissolve without extraneous measures, like bubbling co2 through the water and much of it will precipitate out anyway, so it's pretty useless and not recommended for use. The calculation will be incorrect because of that. And IF it worked, which it doesn't, it...