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So this is my first attempt at a single tier wooden brew stand. I have both a keggle mlt and a cooler mlt. I have been using the cooler for all mashes that dont have any steps since it holds temp better. I just upgraded from a single burner system with a lot of manual labor moving water and...

So...... I have been out of the homebrewing scene for a few months. Last I was shopping simcoe wasn't too hard to find. Now my regular 3 or 4 vendors seem to be out of stock. Who has it in stock? I apologize if this is a lazy question lol

So I am contemplating brewing today and have a three week old starter sitting in my fridge. It is the wyeast kolsch yeast. I started it awhile back and brew day kept getting postponed. It fermented at room temp for two weeks and then I moved it to the fridge where it sat for another week. It...

So my question relates to the water chemistry primer. Say that you want a baseline water profile with 1 gm cacl per gallon. My question is related to boil off. Would you treat the water based on your pre boil water volume or your post boil volume? Similar to how o.g. incresases as the liquid...

So I have been kegging for awhile........ Basically the reason that I am writing this post is because my kegged beers never APPEAR carbed once they are poured. If I pour a bottle conditioned beer there is a nice head and there are running bubbles up the glass. A "fizzy" appearance. My kegged...

So, I have several extra keggles in my garage that I am considering selling and would also consider trading. I'd prefer to only sell them locally unless the buyer is willing to cover actual shipping costs (which I can find out if there are any serious inquiries - I am guessing probably like $40...

So I searched and searched and couldn't find a vendor with stainless steel 3 1/8" shanks. None of the big keg vendors had this size in stainless. I found 2 vendors who were selling this size in stainless so I ordered from the cheaper of the two (we'll keep the specific vendor unnamed). Well I...

So, I just thought I'd go ahead and start a thread with pictures of my build since I received a lot of inspiration from the builds I have seen on the forum. I'll just post updates as the project progresses. Everything has been ordered so it's just a matter of waiting for the shanks and rest...

So I am going to build a draft tower for my keezer. I don't have a picture handy of the design I have in mind handy but it's simple T style draft box. The face will be 1X4 to mount the faucents. Then it will be 6" or 8" deep. The column between the keezer and the faucet box will be a 6", 7"...

So I just got my water reports from ward labs and was wondering if I could get some help interpreting the results. This is for city of Aurora (IL) water: pH - 8.9 Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est - 306 Electrical Conductivity - .51 Cations/Anions, me/L - 4.9/4.6 Sodium, Na - 58...

So I had been reading about water and how to adjust your water for a couple weeks awhile back. I watched Bobby_M's water primer video. I messed around with the old spreadsheet and had come up with what I thought I needed to adjust my water. Then the game changed with EZ water calculator...

So I am not creative at all and have no photoshopping or other editing skills whatsoever. Samuari Squirrel Brewery! Any help or creative insight from the imaging geniuses out there would be appreciated!

For sale are 2 15.5 gallon sanke kegs. The tops have been cut out with an angle grinder. The edges have been sanded with a flap disk and are deburred and smooth to the touch. These are in excellent shape. No dents and they are nice and shiny For those concerned, I am not mass producing these...

So I picked up 50 ft of 1/2" copper to build an immersion chiller. As before any DIY build I am wondering what the best design is to give me the best chilling time. I have seen plenty of single coil 50' chillers and a few 50' with a large circle and a smaller one in the center. I would...

I built 2 counterflow chillers (the bobby_M design exactly as shown here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/counterflow-chiller-tutorial-51793/) They turned out great but I decided to go a different chilling route after 1 use. One chiller was used for one brew. The other has never been used...

So I have have bulk marris otter on hand and about 8 or 9 pounds of hops. Not much else. As an interesting experiment I want to brew a batch using only my maris otter and a few pounds of which I will home roast into some toasted malt (amberish?) and some crystal 40. I plan to use this write...

So I am in Florida for a week for work (Orange Park, near Jacksonville). While visiting other states I make it a mission of mine to try and find some local craft brew that I can't get up by me (in illinois). I have been to about 3 hole in the wall liquor stores and a few grocery stores but...

So I have been brewing all-grain for awhile (10+ batches). I think I just about have everything down. Efficiency is consistent, O.G.'s are getting hit, mash temps get hit spot on and held the duration of the mash, beer is tasting good. The one "problem" that I have and can't seem to figure...

Just for a little background on my situation............ (Batch sparge is the method I'm referring to in all cases below) I had a twelve gallon regtangular cooler that I converted into my first mash tun. I built a copper manifold and drilled holes every quarter inch or so. Used a 1/2"...

So a little background......... I've done about ten all-grain batches prior to my most recent batch that got stuck. My previous setup was a 12 gallon rectangular cooler with a copper manifold. This mash tun was awesome except it had one flaw. It lost about 5-6 degrees over a 60 minute...