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I've been using this type of hop schedule in my IPAs lately (a little bit during the boil, with big doses at whirlpool and dry hop), and I really like the results. It's a mix of traditional west coast and NEIPA, with the parts I like best about both. Your IBU level looks similar to my go-to...

As an update, I've gone the hop tea route for the kolsch. It's a bit better after the first dose. I'm going to let it settle for a day and then probably add another dose to really get it to the right IBUs. For the IPA that was languishing in my fermentation chamber, I dumped in the spare bag...

I agree with the advice to start out with some recipe kits. For your first couple brews, it's best to keep it simple and reduce the variables. Use a well known recipe so you can focus more on learning the process first. Doing a lager without controlling your fermentation temperature is likely to...

That's what my wife suggested this morning! Smart folks...

Always good to ask about refractometers, but no, I've done the conversions to get the true gravity. The US-05 is probably the best advice, but wouldn't I need to uncarbonate it first? Am I right to assume that tossing in some dried yeast right now would cause a foam geyser? It's gonna be very...

So I have a work retreat coming up next week, and about a month ago, I brewed a few gallons of kolsch to bring with me. I made the mistake of telling people this plan, which of course means I've run into issues. Looking for help on how to fix this, if it's even possible. I brewed the same...

I'm a big fan of Bell's yeast. I got a pack from their old homebrew store, and I've kept it going with overbuilt starters. It's a Chico strain, but I prefer the finish to US-05. Super vigorous fermentations, too

You won't regret the move to kegs, that's for sure. I haven't used those type of taps you linked above, mostly because they take up a lot of space. I'm not able to fit them in my keg fridge, which is a similar design to the one you ordered. If you've got the same space considerations, you might...

As a lawyer, I'll be the first to say, please don't let our definitions decide anything for you unless what you're deciding is whether or not you need a liquor license...

Not worth the effort for you. It's worth it for lots of folks in this thread. There are tons of things I do for brewing that have a very minor effect on the finished product. That's fine with me, a big part of why I enjoy homebrewing is tinkering with my process and learning new things. Other...

I can't recommend enough the Fermonster with a modified lid, as described in this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/turning-your-fermonster-into-a-complete-closed-transfer-system-for-cheap.680992/ Using this setup for closed transfers improved my flavors dramatically and with very...

Aeration of hot wort is different from aeration of the cold wort pre-pitch. There's some evidence that dissolved oxygen can have an impact on the mash and oxygenate compounds there. John Palmer says any oxygenation of wort over 80 degrees can impact compounds in the wort that eventually lead to...

By strike water, I mean the water you're using to mash. For oxygen-sensitive styles, I'll pour my water into the kettle the night before and then put in a bit of white sugar and bakers yeast. I can't remember the exact proportions right now, something like a spoonful of sugar and 10g of yeast...

Back when I was bottling, oxygen reduction was the only thing that fixed the fact that all my IPAs sucked after week one. The main thing I did was no headspace in my bottles. You can also try to minimize oxygen at other points in the process. I got a Tilt so I wouldn't need to take samples from...

Agreed with everyone's advice here on how to get the most out of the forum. I'd also say that I think it's worth doing a few batches with your basic equipment before you try and upgrade much. You'll have a better sense of what you need if you use things a couple times and do some reading on...

Yeah, just dump it in the center. It will distribute in the liquid just fine. Try and avoid sending it down the glass sides, if you can, because the yeast cells that stick to the glass won't get to your beer. But honestly, it'll be fine either way.

I do the same overbuild method as day_trippr, though with smaller volumes because I brew 2.5 gallon batches. I've always cold crashed for a day or two, poured off most of the wort, swirled up the remainder, and then divided that between two 8 oz jars. One goes in my brew and one goes in the...

That's probably a better bet than your bucket for the purposes of reducing oxygen exposure. The problem with a carboy is the safety issues with moving a heavy one around and the potential for breakage. But they are definitely better for letting beer sit. I'll second the recommendation for...

I use a refractometer and a Tilt so I don't have to waste precious beer before it's ready to drink. 🙌 Oxygen was the main reason I moved on from hydrometers, but it was also in part because I really don't like drinking uncarbonated/unfinished wort, so I'd always dump the sample.

You may want to let the next batch sit a few days longer at temps in the 60s to see if anything changes. Even after they're done eating sugar, the yeast can continue to condition the beer and work through compounds that create off flavors.