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As per @lumpher are you sure it's carbonic bite and not just normal maturation? Almost all IPAs better @3-4 weeks, allows any acetaldehyde to process, vegetals to subside, and some oxidation character is probably good.

Bottom line, CO2 is always your friend after fermentation.

I have a 15G Spike Solo and a 20G InfuSSion mash tun. Configure as a K-RIMS only when I want a high-gravity (1075+) 7.5G batch. Have found that I just can't fit a big 25 pound grain bill (even as a thick mash) in the Solo with the efficiencies that I need to hit OG for 9-10 gallon preboil...

Steve - if you're looking for a little more explanation behind the calculations, BYO published a nice article in 2021 with some details (it is unfortunately behind their paywall): https://byo.com/article/counting-calories-carbs/

I love my wooden paddle. But Homebrew Finds posted this 2 ft wisk for $10 today: Amazon.com

Nothing but good experience with this company. I'm sure there is a good reason.

Consider adding finings while cold and settling. Gelatin/Biofine/Silafine along with more time to let things settle. It will definitely clarify with more time (although clear beer probably overrated).

Wow!

👆🏻is what I do as well, albeit prior to force carbonating. Works quite well. Curious how fining will work with carbonated beer.

Some sizeable bubbles in the line too. Is there a leak at the keg out connection? Or perhaps the limited flow restriction or larger line size is allowing CO2 to come out of solution while in transit. Agree with @IslandLizard, would make the switch to 3/16" line and also check the gasket at...

Why not Sorachi Ace?

I do not unscrew either of the posts or PRV in my process. I connect to liquid out when pushing out Starsan, then disconnect when nothing else comes out. I stay connected to gas post under CO2 pressure for all of the steps, incuding when the keg is inverted and when I'm pulling the PRV (upside...

Nope. Blowing out Starsan through the PRV under continued CO2 pressure applied through gas.

To clean I use PBW, water rinse, and then Starsan rinse. I agree leftover gunk in the keg could produce off flavors. Not sure about the lactic/citric acid rinse - have never heard of that. Starsan is acid so I'm not sure it would be necessary.

I'm really sensitive to the taste of Starsan for some reason, so have my own process to leave as little as possible in before filling: 1. Fill keg completely with water + Starsan 2. With keg upright use CO2 on gas post to push out the solution through the liquid post 3. Gently rock the keg...

Are you sure it's oxidation? What off flavors are you getting beyond cardboard and sherry? Nothing about your process suggests a major O2 ingress. Leftover Starsan in the keg?

I'd say pitch it. I've tried it - wine yeast is highly attenuating and a clean fermenter. The beer will finish low and probably a bit thin. So probably depends on the style you're looking for. And ask for a refund on that poorly shipped liquid yeast!

I have two of these. Like the ability to change temp via wifi. But yes sometimes over- or under-shoot with this "hysteresis loop." Are the better wifi-controllable options?

It's been a rapid period of technological progress for sure. But I'm still waiting for artificial intelligence to do my brew day cleaning!

Getting the CF into (and out of) a refrigerator is the problem Bobby. I moved to glycol because of the havoc that my chest freezer and then my refrigerator were reeking on my back. Glycol works well for fermentation temp control, but it is a lot tougher to dial in for cold crash. But you can...