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i recently put a water spigot directly over my HLT so i fill directly without dumping or lifting buckets. i hook up my wort chiller via hose then switch to spray nozzle for cleaning. takes about 30 min off my brew time.

first take a specific gravity reading. if you are at your target pre boil s.g., then proceed and throw out excess wort. if the s.g. is too low, then boil down as much as you can and add the excess wort until you reach your target pre boil s.g.

thanks. im sure it will be fine

get rid of all your plastic and vinyl. had the same thing happen to me. use star san and boil everything. replace anything plastic. if you use a cooler get a new one.

feed it with mor DME or add the new vial to what is left of the starter?

i was going to add the new vial to the starter, wait 2-3 hours, then pitch. sound right?

pulled out 2 vial yeast starter this morning for a 10gal. brew. i closed the cap on the grolsch bottle momentarily to give the starter a quick swirl. i forgot to re-open the cap and continued to brew 4 hours later i opened the cap and of course it exploded. i lost about half the...

make a starter and do at least one decoction. dont forget the diacetyl rest.

20 is what i always force carb at. 4-7 days for carbing and settling. will be bubbly after 3 days but give it a few mor for carbonic acid to settle out.

google Chicha de Jora. made from germinating maize to convert the starch to fermentable sugar then making wort and fermenting. could you germinate the corn water? ithink you are on to something here.

tastes fine post boil. my wort chiller is old. i was thinking of replacing the chiller and switching out the vinyl tube for copper. only thing i can think of other than that is my pump. i guess i could take it apart and boil all the parts, but i always run hot star san water through it before...

no, the hose is clear vinyl with the criss-cross braiding going along the tube. it looks perfectly clean.

kettle is chilled with copper coil chiller. the chilled wort goes from kettle to glass carboy via strainer/funnel. chiller and fermenter are sanitized with starsan. beer goes from carboy to corny keg via autosiphon (also soaked in starsan) corny keg is usuall sanitized with boiling water and...

is my vinyl braided line the problem? i am brewing right now and could use the input of someone knows

what is "brett"? is that plastic? my system is stainless with vinyl braided hose coming from the HLT to the Mash tun, then the mash tun drains via a vinyl braided hose to the kettle. please tell me that this is my problem. that would be the easiest fix int the world

i am having nightmare problems. i can't seem to track down this random funk that is attacking my brews. i have dumped 3 of the last 5 brews and i can't seem to narrow down the problem. anyone ever heard of a musty, sour aftertaste??? if i have to trash my whole system, i will. but my wife might...

i have had this same issue. wierdboy seems to have the answers

nice jig. that is a great way to do that. are you a carpenter?

consider a copper tube manifold. no problem with cleaning, floating, crushing the braid or stirring worries. i switched a few months ago. world of difference.

the answer to your question is you want the grain to end up in the 170F range. i add 190F sparge water for each double batch sparge. if you do a single batch, you can go cooler, like low 180's.