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You'd think that but my anecdotal evidence tells me that if you use the same amount of sugar as you would bottling, you will end up with very over carbonated beer. I've had good results using about half what a bottle priming calculator says. I can't explain the science behind it, I can only tell...

Oddly enough, I received a reply 10 minutes after posting my complaint here. What a coincidence! They are going to refund the yeast, which resolves the issue as far as I'm concerned. I still don't like the idea of them making the substitution without my consent though.

Wish I had known about the issues they've been having. I have been ordering from them semi-regularly for years. I have a good LHBS and spend most of my homebrewing budget there, but AHBS was always convenient because it was delivered right to my door. I placed an order for a couple Stone clone...

I would add some sugar but the beer is already pushing 9% ABV. I guess I'll just add the dregs and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

The Dupont strain.

Just moved a saison over to secondary to age a bit and the gravity was at 1.002. I was thinking of adding some dregs from a few bottles of Goose Island Sofie to hopefully get some brett character. With the gravity already so low, should I even bother? Will I get anything from the brett at this...

This actually looks really similar to a beer I did not too long ago, although mine had a bit more crystal. Trust me, the partigyle will be plenty roasty (mine actually placed as a Robust Porter in competition.)

Yeah, that's kind of what I was afraid of. Oh well. Has anyone had any luck with the pH strips at AHS?

The one at AHS (my usual store) says you can't test the mash directly. I can see it becoming frustrating having to cool portions of your mash, test, adjust, cool, test, adjust, repeat until you hit your pH. Is there a meter out there that can withstand high temps? My last dark beer tastes...

I brewed a big stout a while ago and it's been aging in secondary for a few months. The issue is that since my water is terrible for big stouts, (something I didn't realize at the time I brewed it) it has a nasty astringency in the finish that pretty much makes it undrinkable. I was thinking...

It's not a sour. It is brewed with brett, which is a wild yeast, but you don't really get any sourness from it.

The more affordable, widely available yet still tasty sours are probably Lindeman's Cuvee Rene and Petrus Aged Pale. Avoid any of Lindeman's fruit lambics because they are sweetened to the point of being disgusting.

I'd do some sucrose additions to dry it out, just make sure to keep the sucrose to less than 10% of the total grain bill.

What yeast did you use, what temp did you ferment at and did you make an appropriate sized starter? I tend to get more green apple with british yeast when fermented a higher temps. I don't think 1 pound of sugar would be enough to cause off flavors in an imperial IPA (I've used that amount quite...

Trade on beeradvocate.com. It'll probably cost you less.

I would and did. That beer just won a second place ribbon in a local competition. Used a pound of Special B, a quarter pound C120 and a quarter pound pale chocolate in the grain bill.

Old Raspy really isn't what I'm going for. In my opinion that is a thinner bodied imperial stout. Don't get me wrong, it's a great beer, just not what I'm trying to accomplish.

I could just use instant quaker oats, right? How much would you suggest adding to the mash?

That is a good point. I usually mash my bigger beers at around 150 just because when you're dealing with an OG over 1.100 you usually want the most fermentable wort possible but maybe I'll try this next one at 152 or 154 and see what happens.

Big stouts seem to be my white whale as far as brewing goes. I've brewed a few and none have come out like I wanted them to. I'm going to attempt to brew another one soon and I think I've got my water problem under control, but another issue I had with my last batch was lack of body. I want...