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Commercially grown hops are suspended up by a trellis/rope system. They do not touch the ground. A dog would have to be a contortionist too pee on them. The OP said these were lying on the ground.

If they have been urinated on, spritzing them with vodka isn't going to remove the urine residue. I would trash them and just buy hops.

I also started with this kit. The screw-on lid is its Achilles Heel. I never got it to properly seal. I would skip this kit and just buy one that includes a Better Bottle & bottling bucket or even two buckets.

You haven't heard about it since it generally only applies to lager-style brewing. When you make a lager, you keep it in the 50's, which is too cold for the yeast to clean up diacetyl effectively, so at the end of primary fermentation, you bring the temp up into the 60's for 24-48 hours. With...

Whole or pellet is entirely personal preference. The good news is, you can substitute Willamette with Fuggle or Tettnanger. You can sub Magnum for Horizon, but I don't see Magnum on the page you posted. I got my info here: Hop Substitution Chart ::: Brew365

They start to turn brown if you leave them on the bine too long. First they feel papery (ready to pick), then they start to turn brown.

Yes, room temperature or just below that is fine for conditioning your bottles. Thanks for converting C to F for us ignorant Yanks. Do Israelis call us Yanks?

First year hops in Northern Utah. My setup, Cascades on the left and Nugget on the right. The Cascade went crazy, but I'll be lucky to get an ounce from the Nugget. Cascades: Close-up of Cascades: Not a bad first year from the Cascade:

Yes. Tastes good. Your airlock cannot tell you if fermentation is done, only your hydrometer.

It will be fine. I don't know what the people at your store were saying, but all the air in your primary is now co2. It is not only safe, but it is ADVISABLE to leave beer in the primary longer than that. Most here suggest at least two weeks, I generally do three to four weeks in primary.

I have used extra hop pellets with that kit with great results. If you have aroma hops, you can add them the last five minutes of the boil to give the beer a "fresher" hop aroma than you get from the can. Or, you could dry hop in secondary.

Yes, perfectly normal.

Yes, but you have to keep training the bines by hand to go horizontally. Left alone, they will try to grow up. I did the same thing this year with success.

Does not approve of this abuse of clean, efficient propane. Seriously, I would take it back to a filling station and see if they can replace the valve safely. I would be concerned about releasing all of the contents of the tank if you tried anything else.

Don't forget to figure in your extract into your initial volume figure. The first time I did a full boil, I ended up with 5 1/2 gallons because I failed to account for the cans of extract.

Another trick some members swear by is having a spray bottle full of water and misting the foam when a boilover is imminent.

No. That hose is a blow-off tube. You would only use it during primary fermentation. Search the forum for "Blow off tube" for more info. It's much simpler to just use an airlock for secondary.

Oh, sorry. I thought this thread was for guys that have beer guts and need bigger belts. I'll move along...

Personally, I would rouse the existing yeast. There are still plenty of yeast in your fermenter, they are just dormant. Gently swirl the fermenter to get them back into suspension. You didn't tell us what temperature you are keeping it. If it's pretty low, raise it a few degrees. Also, you...

Get a vinator for bottle sanitizing. They are awesome.