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I did use 2 elements wired separately to 2 30Amp/240V outlets.

I highly recommend to add resistors between pin and MOSFET gate to protect ESP pin from overcurrent plus pull down restore top keep MOSFET closd when pin is not configured. Something like this (but remove D3) Secondly 3.3V is not enough to fully open IRLZ44N . So you it could be possible...

Looks like that on Amazon you can buy element with enclose for a price similar to Brew Hardware's enclosure only. https://www.amazon.com/Dernord-Tri-clamp-Foldback-Heating-Electric/dp/B07GBQ1MVH

From my experience Autotune gives best results when your "tune" setup is close as possible to your regular brew day setup plus you start Autotune when temperature is close to your target one. Just a few degree below.

If source code is available it's very easy to remove check for accelerometer.

As it was said you don't need to remove existing RESET switch. Just wire your switch between RST and Ground pads either on ESP itself or on board. However I'd recommend to install NO reed switch and use magnet to initiate a reset . Something like this should work fine -...

You can get the same for $50-$70 less even buying locally or even more when ordering from China $35 - Srew Sheild - https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Salon-Terminal-Adapter-Arduino-MEGA-2560/dp/B01CU3OB5Y $38 - Original Mega -...

I can make you arduino based PID board to control a servo. The main question - will you be able to reliable connect powerful enough servo to control a knob?

I don't know if Adcraft IND-C208V has a fan, but if it has you can rewire it to an external power supply to make it always spin when brewing.

What is it? Some flavor of Arduino Mega? If your accessories are 5V you can use one 5V power supply for Arduino and accessories. Arduino itself (without radio module) consume less than a 1W if it has WiFI/BT - 10 Watt should be enough. SSR is good however can be easily frayed if you will...

You can easily control 2 elements using 2 SSRs connected to a one PID but 2 different 30A outlets..

Not exactly. SSR is based on triacs. And maximum allowed triac's junction temperature usually around 120C (250F). Considering thermal resistance junction-triakc enclosure-SSR hotplate-heatsink we can estimate maximum allowed heatsink temperature around 90C (~190F). It's not recommended to run...

Technically you can use this heatsink when SSR runs on 25Amp but it sets SSR on the edge and its lifespan will be shortened significantly. Lest dive in some numbers. Typical 40Amp SSR has a BTA41 triac inside to control a power. It has a 1.2V voltage drop. Considering P= UI we get that on 25...

Don't drink it. You will not die but copper salts are very unhealthy.

What about using float switch? like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZBXXR4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 or that https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQYXP0C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

My ex-neighbor (I’ve moved out) is a freelancer hardware engineer. He has all necessary equipment to design a PCB and solder all required SMD components. But he will not do it for free. So the question is – how much you are willing to pay for such a board and how many boards can be sold?

I'm not familiar with that sensors but according to available data they can be with voltage or current output. If it's 2-20ma current output - that schematic (https://circuits4you.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/transmiter4-20ma1.png) is correct.

If you going to switch to 240V you can use 5500 240V element(s). Connected to 120V it gives you 1375 Watt.

Yes, it's a 1-wire probe. You just need an extra resistor to connect it to Mega. No that probes already in a 'husk'. So you don't need an extra one. You can buy a sensor itself (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Maxim-Integrated/DS18B20%2b?qs=sGAEpiMZZMucenltShoSnu2ltHLyJVLbjVt2VYI39eg%3d)...

DIY DC UPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRT4PWY/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F25GR6P/