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Ah damn i'm in Charleston WV and will take this if it falls through.

In

Hi

Looks good, I do something similar but still use an immersion to get it down to ~110 with ground water. My glycol reservoir is only about 7 gallons so to cool a 10g batch from 210 would require some run time on the ac.

You'd prob be borderline if you're ok with some moisture on the walls. I have 2 bays and 12 ft ceilings and will open the door for the last 15 or 20 minutes. I have to get to the water hose outside anyway.

First brew went well. 165f ended up being 55c on the thermostat. It covered HLT for strike and sparge water, then moved it over to bk after fly sparging enough to cover the element and cranked the thermostat to max. 3500w worked well for 12g boil. Yes it's grounded, gfci, etc. The...

Set up with a simple thermostat from aliexpress in an outdoor conduit box and ran the bulb down to the element. Hoping it'll get me close enough on strike and sparge and I'll be able to drop it in bk if necessary. Using 3500w element right now, thermostat says it's good to 32a.

Keep in mind without a source of makeup air there is a potential to put a negative pressure on things like water heater vents and pull exhaust gasses into the room. Code calls for things over 300cfm (or when necessary). Since you're in a basement with a water heater and combustion byproducts...

I think i'm gonna go 4 elements in the BK and 2 in the HLT, heat times work starting with 120f water and i could use bk to heat first strike of the day. Really screws up symmetry of control panel front though. Was going to just swing the 3 and 3 by using different wattage elements but it...

Auggie have you toyed with heaters in series like a zig zag of ulwds? Flow path similar to a plate chiller i guess i should say.

If the wiring follows code it's all 12ga wire on the 20a circuit.

perfectly normal to have a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit. https://www.homedepot.com/c/types_of_electrical_outlets

May not be exactly in the realm of homebrew but it's close. I bought a keg washer that had several pneumatic valves and for one of them i'm missing everything but the actuator. I didn't think much of it at the time but i'm having a hell of a time finding a bracket and coupler to link up with...

@augiedoggy Do you have an estimate of how many watts you boil with? I see the guy above uses 16.5k, but has a hard on/off setup.

There's a hysterisis setting so 3 elements would ramp to say 1 degree of target, kick off, then one would maintain. I def understand adding SSRs is not a huge deal and tried and true, just want to be clear on the thought process.

Hm i will think on it. My original thoughts were that you don't need 3 elements for temp control so i would save myself 4 SSRs. I think i got the idea because auber used it that way in the dspr 3000 manual so maybe it's a sales pitch.

Yes I have 7 elements (3 hlt, 3 bk, 1rims). Im planning to use the aux relays on the dspr300 to control the second two elements with an on/off/auto setup.

I didn't see how to get that to work if and have each additional input provide 1 hlt and 1 bk element. I also think I would like the individual control. Eg if i end up boiling a 2.5bbl batch it may be best to have 1 full on element and 1 ssr'd at xx percent.

Got back at it some. Slow goins but enjoying the struggle. Thinking about the best place to put terminal blocks. I thought the box would have plenty of room so ordered a 12 pack and used 63a contactors everywhere (the box doesn't have plenty of room).

Instead of coiling you could do double elbows at each end and prob fit in 3 runs long ways. You could also try soldering/brazing washers to a single central pipe.