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Reads fast, Long lasting rechargeable battery. Nice product.

I spent summers there in the 80's and early 90's. Southern part near Turnagain arm. All these years later I can still remember what the inside of the Bird House bar looked like. I wasn't drinking age at the time but that image is burned in. Best of luck to you.

I have had a couple of trouble free years with KOMOS and Intertap. I drilled the tower for a third tap and it wasn't easy. Definitely well built with thick stainless. Add a Spring and a couple rebuild kits for peace of mind. Foward sealing is the way to go. I have a Fan in my fridge that...

The amp rating is in the manual that should have come with it. I believe it is 10A but consult the book. Glad you got it going.

Well that aint right. The terminals are not that robust on the stc. I tinned all my stranded wire to avoid any mishaps. Unhook everything and start over. Check for continuity between 1 and 2 then just powering the stc with no load connections. It's possible you had or now have a defective...

Sounds like a problem on the line side. Have a meter? It only takes one small strand to make contact on 1 and 2.

Code Please. I gave my Inkbird instant read to a new cook.

A faucet of some kind would give you better control of flow and temperature and with the cost of decent valves is probably about the same cost. Accidently leaving that mixing valve on seems like it could have undesirable effects.

I would like to know how the temp change affects flavor in your opinion. I have always used voss in the mid 90's. Interesting post here about temperature and flavor. The "kveiky acidity/twang" described by the author at lower temps doesn't sound pleasant.

I think you're looking for a bulkhead. Should be leak free if you use some o rings on a flat spot of the pan.

I use a 300 watt heater in my old 10 gallon kettle. A pump in the kettle connects to an inkbird. In the 50 f ambient basement the aquarium heater can keep the water at 100f and the fermenter in the mid 90's without issue. I'd like to find a way to automate the change over from heat/ chill...

I don't know that ever got an orange bomb out it. More of a subtle clean orange flavor that plays well with some hops. I should mention I also under pitch using one pack for 11 gallons of 1.050. From more beer website: Fermentation Range: 77-104°F (Optimal: 95-104°F)...

Yes. Brutzyme I purchased from more beer. The ideal temp range is 50-68 but I have had no trouble putting it directly in the fermenter at pitch around 95f.

I use it often in "Brut". Ferment in the mid 90's and the hydrometer is at 1 or below in 3 days. Great orange flavor.

I use that KegLand lid and it's been trouble free. Our city water through standard under sink filter then a check valve to the lid. Water pressure is 50psi and the co2 is set to 30psi.

Acetone works well as an adhesive remover. Any hardware store should have it or just use that bottle of fingernail polish remover every house seems to have.

I have seen a few examples of PVC feeding cold air into a wall mounted insulated box but not a tower. Unless I'm missing something, you would have to reduce the 4" PVC to the diameter of the black iron? With 6 beer lines in the same black iron it seems like you would be restricting the flow of...

I use a brush like this for the aquarium tubing.

The check valve and water above it will keep the sewer gases out. The trap on the pump discharge isn't necessary but I don't think it's detrimental either. The odor I'm speaking of is the from the pump box itself. I clean my kettle, fermenters, paint brushes and myself after yard work in that...

An "Air Admittance Valve" isn't really a good option in your setup. If the pit is sealed as it should be the pit will pressurize when the sink drains into it. I also don't believe the valves have enough flow to replace the air when that pump kicks on. Hard to say if either issue with Air...