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Just want to parrot @mongoose33 that a 10 gallon kettle should be able to hold more than 10 pounds. I did a 2.5 gallon batch using 10 pounds of grain in a 5 gallon pot (that's really more like 4.75).

At 2.5 gallon batches, it's a bit easier for me to squeeze the heck out of the grain (there being less of it), so I usually get 0.4-0.5 gal/lb. I consider it a fun "workout" as the main volume of wort is heated towards boil, so I get everything out of it I can.

So, regarding yeast deoxygenation, the process is to measure out (batch size *2) grams of yeast and dextrose each, and mix it in the strike water 2-3 hours before mash begins, right? My girlfriend is an epic baker, so we have mason jars (yep, plural) of dry bread yeast in the fridge, so this...

That sums it up for me as well. I double crush my grains at my LHBS, so I imagine I could (1) up my efficiency, or (2) decrease my intense squeezing if I had my own mill set to .020 or some such, but it works for me for now. Edit: I forgot to say, I do use a small pot lid to start the process...

I usually get about 0.05 gal/lb absorption, as measured across multiple batches, which equates to about .42 fl oz/oz. I usually use Priceless as my water volume calculator, never thought to go in and update Beersmith to see if I get better predictions from them.

If you haven't already tried this, pour the beer in different glasses. I have a SMaSH right now that always seems darker than it should be....until I pour it in a thinner glass (usually put it in a teku or something similar). When it goes into any taster glass or a stange, it is a nice light...

Let it ride for a few more days, as fermentation can/will continue even after it "looks" done. You'll probably get a few points lower. Also, did you temperature correct your SG readings? I forgot that on my first couple brews, so it's something that came to mind with your "When I took the OG"...

I made my first imperial stout on Sunday and everything went well. Was expecting 65% efficiency, based on most advising that efficiency drops with big beers, but I ended up at my usual 75% with an 85-ish minute mash. I say ish, because as @ggriffi experienced, squeezing the bag took a long while...

If you use Beersmith, there is a Dilution tool that you can use to calculate topping off. It will help you figure out the amount of volume needed to dilute your wort to reach a certain SG. For example, if you have 3 gallons of 1.080 water, and dilute it with 2 gallons of water, you will get 5...

Have you contacted the company that bottled it to see if they have a water report that you can use to build a profile?

I will second Beernutz's suggestion of using Speidel fermenters. In addition to being easier to clean, I find it easier to get every lost drop of beer out of them due to the way they constructed their spigot outlet (I'm using their 12L version). While not a perfectly clear plastic, I can still...

I use the 20 qt version of this pot and have had great success with it.

Ran across this post from Revvy about diluting AG that answers the questions I couldn't earlier. This is something you could use to pull off 5 gallon batches with your current 5 gallon kettle.

Get a bigger kettle. I'm assuming you're mashing in the kettle as well, and the rule of thumb is to have a kettle that is (at least) 2X the volume of your batch size. So, 10-12 gallons, perhaps 15 if you someday want to do high gravity beers without any sparging. Also, I agree your calculated...

I want to follow up on this, in case others are in a similar situation. The dimensions of the Speidel made it an interesting search, as most of the smaller cubic foot options with the compressor bump either (1) had a freezer section that got in the way, or (2) simply didn't have enough height to...

I would suggest getting your water to strike temperature before adding the grains. I've had great success with the Priceless calculator. Input all your information correctly in the calculator and, chances are, you will hit your mash temperature perfectly if you stir the grains into the water...

It certainly is! Give it a week or two and see if the smell dissipates -- they kit may have included a yeast that creates the rotten egg smell during fermentation. It will hopefully go away as the beer reaches FG.

Based on what I can find, it looks like a dry yeast was provided? If so, was there any information about when the yeast was packaged? Old dry yeast could lead to a longer lag time, and 48 hours seems well within the range of what I would consider a "long" lag time. Also, double check...

Ruler and an Excel spreadsheet that can tell me the amount of liquid based on the height on the ruler. With pre- and post-boil readings, I also take a temperature reading and adjust using http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/volumetric-temperature-expansion-d_315.html to account for thermal...

The post that FruityHops linked to provides some hope. Seems like a number of people are having luck avoiding the bottle-related darkening by using 1318 as their yeast.