Chocolate Stout Recipe help

[jmyers04]

I am going to be brewing my first stout soon. I have come up with a recipe and was wanting any feedback on the recipe or procedure. Thanks!

8 lb Maris Otter
1 lb Flaked Barley
1 lb Chocolate malt
14 oz Roasted Barley

1 oz Fuggles @ 60 min.

Single infusion BIAB....mash for 90 min @ 154 F.

Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale....Yeast is a question....up for any recommendations on a different yeast. I just had read this one was good for a stout. If I use this yeast I would ferment @ 68 for a few days then let it free rise so it finishes strong (any problem with that temp?)

Looking to have a creamy kinda sweet chocolate stout. Not overly sweet but a decent body. I was also wondering how much chocolate flavor will this malt give off? Should I use 2 oz of cocoa nibs in the secondary as well? Don't want chocolate milk but would like to be able to tell its there.

 

[Morrey]

I am going to be brewing my first stout soon. I have come up with a recipe and was wanting any feedback on the recipe or procedure. Thanks!

8 lb Maris Otter
1 lb Flaked Barley
1 lb Chocolate malt
14 oz Roasted Barley

1 oz Fuggles @ 60 min.

Single infusion BIAB....mash for 90 min @ 154 F.

Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale....Yeast is a question....up for any recommendations on a different yeast. I just had read this one was good for a stout. If I use this yeast I would ferment @ 68 for a few days then let it free rise so it finishes strong (any problem with that temp?)

Looking to have a creamy kinda sweet chocolate stout. Not overly sweet but a decent body. I was also wondering how much chocolate flavor will this malt give off? Should I use 2 oz of cocoa nibs in the secondary as well? Don't want chocolate milk but would like to be able to tell its there.

If you lightly roast (enhances flavor) an oz or two of cocoa nibs and then cover the nibs with a cup and half of vodka for a week or two in a sealed container. Strain out solids and add a bit of the liquid at a time until you hit the right note when kegging or bottling. Gives a delicate chocolate hint w/o smacking you in the face.

You may consider adding a bit of milk sugars (lactose) to your recipe to accomplish your goals.

 

[jmyers04]

How much lactose would I need to add? And you add that with like 15 min left in the boil?

 

[Morrey]

How much lactose would I need to add? And you add that with like 15 min left in the boil?

I think 1 lb of lactose should give you a perfect beer. Adding with 15 left in boil is fine.

My malt bill is:

8.5 lb 2 row
1 lb flaked oat
13 oz chocolate
13 oz carafa special III (debittered)
4 oz special B malts
***So it looks like your grain bill is good

Do you have BeerSmith?

 

[eadavis80]

Creaminess can be added with oats or lactose. Lactose will aid the sweetness, as would cocoa nibs, which I would suggest soaking in vanilla flavored vodka for a few days prior to adding on racking to secondary. Recipe looks good. Enjoy your experimentation

 

[jmyers04]

I think 1 lb of lactose should give you a perfect beer. Adding with 15 left in boil is fine.

My malt bill is:

8.5 lb 2 row
1 lb flaked oat
13 oz chocolate
13 oz carafa special III (debittered)
4 oz special B malts
***So it looks like your grain bill is good

Do you have BeerSmith?

Yeah I have BeerSmith. But haven't had it very long and need to get more in tune with it.

 

[Morrey]

Creaminess can be added with oats or lactose. Lactose will aid the sweetness, as would cocoa nibs, which I would suggest soaking in vanilla flavored vodka for a few days prior to adding on racking to secondary. Recipe looks good. Enjoy your experimentation

I really like your suggestion about soaking in vanilla vodka. I have spent $$ on real vanilla beans as the price skyrocketed. I'd be willing to bet the difference in the real bean and vanilla flavored vodka tinctures is pretty non-detectable. Good tip.

 

[Morrey]

Yeah I have BeerSmith. But haven't had it very long and need to get more in tune with it.

Your beer looks great. A bit of lactose and some tincture from soaking cocoa nibs will yield you a darn great beer. This beer really improves with a few weeks of conditioning, so your timing is perfect for cool weather.

 

[jmyers04]

I think 1 lb of lactose should give you a perfect beer. Adding with 15 left in boil is fine.

My malt bill is:

8.5 lb 2 row
1 lb flaked oat
13 oz chocolate
13 oz carafa special III (debittered)
4 oz special B malts
***So it looks like your grain bill is good

Do you have BeerSmith?

With 1 lb of lactose should we still mash at 154? or maybe lower like 152 ? Dont want it to be too sweet.

 

[Morrey]

With 1 lb of lactose should we still mash at 154? or maybe lower like 152 ? Dont want it to be too sweet.

Understood. I mashed mine at 152F which gives me a nicely full body but not excessive sweetness. You may even wish to try .75 lb of lactose. Your OG will be a bit high but your FG will be a bit higher than normal (w/o lactose) since it wont ferment out. Maybe you could try .75 lb for some residual sweetness but not an overkill.

 

[jmyers04]

Understood. I mashed mine at 152F which gives me a nicely full body but not excessive sweetness. You may even wish to try .75 lb of lactose. Your OG will be a bit high but your FG will be a bit higher than normal (w/o lactose) since it wont ferment out. Maybe you could try .75 lb for some residual sweetness but not an overkill.

Awesome, thanks for all the input. Do you think that yeast and fermenting in the high 60's will work?

 

[jmyers04]

I cant decide between wyeast 1084 or wyeast 1318. 1084 says if fermented above 64 it produces fruity and complex esters but 1318 also says fruity. But both can be used to make a stout. With no way to really cool the fermentation down much more than 68 or so idk which to use.

 

[Morrey]

I cant decide between wyeast 1084 or wyeast 1318. 1084 says if fermented above 64 it produces fruity and complex esters but 1318 also says fruity. But both can be used to make a stout. With no way to really cool the fermentation down much more than 68 or so idk which to use.

Of the two yeasts you propose, I use 1318 consistently for New England IPAs. For my stouts as we discussed, I use WY1332 which is Northwest Ale yeast and I am very happy with the balance I get. IPA with fruit esters is one thing....a fruit forward stout may not be quite as appealing at least to my tastes and I get more malt from 1332 than fruit esters.

I tend to say that 65F is my go to ale temp unless it is something out of the box like a Hefe or Saison. I use glycol chillers and freezers with Inkbirds as temp controlling devices, and I figure by your posts that you are controlling as well.

Sorry...I just saw you DONT have temp controls. This may be a big factor since your temps inside the fermenter are typically much warmer than the ambient conditions due to yeast's activity. Honestly, I may consider a dry yeast like US-05 that is more neutral in that temp range. Its worth looking around since yeast is a pretty big factor in the final outcome.

 

[jmyers04]

I use the swamp cooler method with ice bottles. I got the last one to stay around 68 but never could get it any colder. We have a packet of 05 and s-04 as well. Maybe go with one of those. As we have started stepping up we have wanted to get away from dry yeast. I will look into 1332 for sure. may have to blast the tub with ice for a few days to try and get to 64

 

[jmyers04]

You say you do NEIPA's? That is the next beer we plan on attempting after this stout. What is your recipe for that of you don't mind me asking? Or I can post mine and see what you think?

 

[Morrey]

You say you do NEIPA's? That is the next beer we plan on attempting after this stout. What is your recipe for that of you don't mind me asking? Or I can post mine and see what you think?

Sure....post your NE IPA recipe and I'll cross reference mine with it. I make it quite a bit since it seems to be the most consumed beer I make. In fact I just started moving into 14G fermenters and doing 11G batches so I'll fill two corny kegs per brew. Not trying to brew less often...simply trying to brew more beer!

BTW...temp control is pretty darn important so I'd certainly thumbs up your swamp cooler efforts. A used chest freezer and an Inkbird ATC can get you going if you have space. I started there.

 

[jmyers04]

11 lbs pale 2 row
1.5 lb wheat
1.5 flaked oats
0.4 lb honey malt

Citra, galaxy and mosaic for hops. will dry hop at peak krausen and after fermentation is done. contemplating a whirlpool but don't know if its necessary.

Starting with RO water....so will add calcium chloride and gypsum. (unsure on amounts tho) 5 gal batch
will also use wyeast 1318

 

[Morrey]

11 lbs pale 2 row
1.5 lb wheat
1.5 flaked oats
0.4 lb honey malt

Citra, galaxy and mosaic for hops. will dry hop at peak krausen and after fermentation is done. contemplating a whirlpool but don't know if its necessary.

Starting with RO water....so will add calcium chloride and gypsum. (unsure on amounts tho) 5 gal batch
will also use wyeast 1318

Grain bill-spot on. G/M/C hops-spot on.

Water is important: I like 75 SO4 to 150 Cl stated in ppm. Or a ratio of 1:2 gives me the profile I like most. Keys to making it Juicy is the biotransformation hop addition before fermentation is complete, judicious and late hop additions, grain adjuncts and water chemistry. BTW...don't worry if your Calcium level bumps upward as this helps the juicy feel. I try not to use ALL CaCl for chlorides but use some non-iodized table salt NaCl to give it some balance. You may need to add in some Epsom salts but you can play around with a calculations program to hit the numbers.

You can do a manual WP by stirring a vortex if you don't have a WP fitting and pump. I like to make my WP additions once the wort has gotten slightly under 180F. Other brewers have their own preferences so mine is not the only way to go.

 

[jmyers04]

I read a recipe once for one that said if starting with RO water that Calcium chloride and gypsum is all that was needed. I think it said 1 tsp CaCl and 0.50 tsp of gypsum.

 

[jmyers04]

I assume by liking that post you think that's the way to go? Not really up to speed on my water chem just yet. So for a 5 gallon batch do those numbers look ok? And we add them in the strike water as it heats up? then just mash like normal?

 

[jmyers04]

Grain bill-spot on. G/M/C hops-spot on.

Water is important: I like 75 SO4 to 150 Cl stated in ppm. Or a ratio of 1:2 gives me the profile I like most. Keys to making it Juicy is the biotransformation hop addition before fermentation is complete, judicious and late hop additions, grain adjuncts and water chemistry. BTW...don't worry if your Calcium level bumps upward as this helps the juicy feel. I try not to use ALL CaCl for chlorides but use some non-iodized table salt NaCl to give it some balance. You may need to add in some Epsom salts but you can play around with a calculations program to hit the numbers.

You can do a manual WP by stirring a vortex if you don't have a WP fitting and pump. I like to make my WP additions once the wort has gotten slightly under 180F. Other brewers have their own preferences so mine is not the only way to go.

did you see my last post? And can you give input on my hop additions compared to yours?

 

[Morrey]

Looks like your CaCl and Gypsum additions will get you in the ballpark with RO water. I'd say that should be good to go.

HOPS:

-60 Min. = .75 oz Warrior for bittering
-Flame Out = 1oz. each of Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic
-Chill to 170 or below and add 1oz. each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Stop chiller and allow hops to sit for 30 minute or so. Stir up or whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so.
Chill to 62 and let hops settle out as much as possible. I like to use hop bags or strainer baskets to avoid this mess. Transfer wort to fermenter.

-Dry Hop #1- At day 3 when using 1318 - add the following to primary fermenter:
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy

-Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to keg or secondary w/ final dry hop addition of...
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy

 

[jmyers04]

Looks like your CaCl and Gypsum additions will get you in the ballpark with RO water. I'd say that should be good to go.

HOPS:

-60 Min. = .75 oz Warrior for bittering
-Flame Out = 1oz. each of Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic
-Chill to 170 or below and add 1oz. each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Stop chiller and allow hops to sit for 30 minute or so. Stir up or whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so.
Chill to 62 and let hops settle out as much as possible. I like to use hop bags or strainer baskets to avoid this mess. Transfer wort to fermenter.

-Dry Hop #1- At day 3 when using 1318 - add the following to primary fermenter:
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy

-Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to keg or secondary w/ final dry hop addition of...
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy

When using RO water should I worry about the PH? Like 4-6 oz of acidulated malt maybe? And our hop schedules are very close so I think I am good there.

 

[jmyers04]

Looks like your CaCl and Gypsum additions will get you in the ballpark with RO water. I'd say that should be good to go.

HOPS:

-60 Min. = .75 oz Warrior for bittering
-Flame Out = 1oz. each of Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic
-Chill to 170 or below and add 1oz. each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Stop chiller and allow hops to sit for 30 minute or so. Stir up or whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so.
Chill to 62 and let hops settle out as much as possible. I like to use hop bags or strainer baskets to avoid this mess. Transfer wort to fermenter.

-Dry Hop #1- At day 3 when using 1318 - add the following to primafermenter:
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic

-Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to keg or secondary w/ final dry hop addition of...
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy

So everything went as planned. Pitched 4 days ago. Fermentation looked all but done today. Checked FG and it’s still high. OG was 1.054 and the Reading I just took was 1.029. Estimated was 1.019. Should I just let it go more or start to worry? Pitched US05. When I took the OG reading it as at 76 degrees. Is it possible our efficiency was better than we thought?

 

[frozyn]

Let it ride for a few more days, as fermentation can/will continue even after it "looks" done. You'll probably get a few points lower.

Also, did you temperature correct your SG readings? I forgot that on my first couple brews, so it's something that came to mind with your "When I took the OG" sentence.