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Same here, I modeled my control panel after trav77. Doug293cz's diagram was indispensable during the entire build, I cannot stress enough how helpful it was. Totally understand, I had similar thoughts when I started a couple months ago but in the end decided to tackle one area at a time. I...

I actually meant having the ability to easily clean the area where the element enters the kettle, since there is normally a locknut and o-ring there with a weldless setup. Even though it is probably going to be sanitized during boiling, being able to really get in there and periodically clean...

So the latest on this is that I decided to take the plunge and expand the existing hole to the next knockout size up, 1-1/4, which appears to be 1-5/8" actual (about 42mm according to my digital caliper). Along with a 1 x 1-1/4 bushing, 222 o-ring and 1-1/4 locknut, I've finally gotten this...

Update on this: Definitely was the breaker, my new one has withstood multiple boil attempts as I've worked on getting my kettle leak sealed. Again, thanks guys for the help in narrowing this down!

That is good to know, I figured that should be the case but didn't know for sure. Thanks, I think I'll buy a few feet, since the 6ft cable I have is a wee bit short for where my kettle will be located. I'll report back when I have a new breaker installed. Thanks guys!

Understood. Yes, all my testing since yesterday was with the load neutral capped, so there is no current coming from anywhere else. The last test seems pretty convincing, ie no load leads connected and still a trip after 30 seconds. I wonder though whether a larger issue is at play, ie...

I was definitely thinking of the same when the element was connected, ie over current protection and not knowing whether that was the root cause or not. I actually got cheap and just ordered a 4-wire dryer cord and cut off the molded plug, replacing it with a NEMA L6-30P plug. So when I...

So a few updates: I tried the suggestion above of running the system ungrounded but the GFCI still tripped after about 30 seconds. I reattached the ground. Next, I tried swapping the lugs on the element and retrying; the GFCI immediately tripped. I then removed the cord cover at the...

Does it matter if I disconnect the ground wire at the breaker or at the element box, as long as its disconnected? I'd rather not touch the panel unless I have to (overly paranoid and will need to cut the main breaker in order to feel comfortable moving wires), and just unscrewing the lug on the...

Good thinking. It would appear that both lugs measure infinity to ground, so looks like there should be no current leakage. I'm starting to think the GFCI may be the one at fault, although I'm open to more suggestions. I even tried plugging in the kettle into another 120V GFCI outlet, and...

A quick update on this: I was able to get to a full boil using a 120V connection to a receptacle-based GFCI that is next to my 240 line. This is actually the 2nd time I've been able to get to a boil on 120V, in addition to the test boil I did after laying my 240 line (without the GFCI...

Hey folks, I'm still working on setting up my BIAB kettle, and it appears I'm having some GFCI issues. I recently exchanged my 2-pole 30A breaker (used to test the new line I installed) with one with GFCI, and now I cannot get run the system for more than a few minutes before the GFCI trips...

Of course now that I've gone back to look at the punches, it seems that the HF 3/4 punch would have done a better job of getting me to the right size. Lesson learned, need to remember always to measure twice and cut once, as the saying goes. For now, I've tried using a the 217 o-ring on the...

OK I'll try to do that. The easiest solution would be some form of bushing that would change a 1" conduit to 1" NPT, but I haven't found such a device anywhere yet. Hopefully someone else that has used the HF punch to install an element will chime in, it seems that this has been done...

I used the 1" punch, which created a 1.362" hole (from what I understand). It would appear that I'm between NPS sizes; I thought about using a 1x1-1/4 NPT bushing, but the thought of enlarging the existing hole to the OD required (1.660) gives me the jitters.

Hello folks, first post but been lurking here on/off for the past year or so. I'm currently working on an electric BIAB kettle and as the title explains, I used the HF knockout punch kit on my aluminum 42 quart pot before I realized the hole size is NOT 1-1/4". For those that were...