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Unfortunately I never brewed this beer

Not sure if this has been covered in here but what types of fermenters are you guys using?

Thanks for your response! I’ll try soft crashing this batch, maybe next batch I’ll try hard crashing with the same recipe and see how it goes.

Does anyone have an up to date process? I’ve been reading through several dozen pages to no avail. Bits I gathered: Primary ferm After d rest soft crash .. at 60? After soft crash drop yeast? After yeast is or isn’t dropped - up temp and dry hop x days? Thanks in advance!!!

Just made my first attempt at this one.. Here’s what I used: Oyl052 -2L starter 8lbs 2 row 2lbs marris otter 1.5lbs flaked oats 1lb white wheat .5lb flaked barley .25lb honey malt @60 .5 oz warrior @160 - 3oz citra 2oz mosaic 1oz simcoe 1.060 OG 1.013 FG Dry hop day 2- 3oz simcoe 2oz...

I've had a lot of success with 007 - Awesome yeast. Some others might say 1318 but I personally think 007 is closer.

You can cold crash after primary fermentation - I've had good luck with turnaround on these. If you pitch plenty of healthy yeast I've had these beers reach FG in 5-7 days. The biggest thing with fermentation is to let the yeast do it's thing.. sometimes it will go a little faster than others...

I think he is referring to the fact that after kegging the beer and dropping the temp you are essentially cold crashing the beer - the first several pints will be extremely hoppy - crunchy even. Cold crashing prior to kegging will give you less hops in the first few pints.

I assumed you did since your beers look so clean.. Do you think that affected the aroma at all? I haven't cold crashed a NEIPA the way that I normally do (3-5 days) but the most recent NEIPA I made I cold crashed over night. Still had a bunch of particulate in the first several pints.

DrGMG - Your beers look incredible.. For as hazy as it is, it also looks really clean - if that makes sense? Did you cold crash yours at all?

To answer the whirlpool question - You're 100% correct. If you have the means to "whirlpool" the wort, then go for it. This can be accomplished a few ways - with a pump or with some other way to stir the wort. If you can't stir or pump the wort just dunking the hops in a bag will work as...

First of all, welcome to the hobby! To answer your questions: A typical boil length is 60 minutes.. Basically the boil time can be adjusted if you want higher IBU or higher OG. You can stuff more hops in a 90 minute boil than a 60 minute making your IBU higher.. if that's what you're...

Has anyone bittered one of these with chinook?

bump :mug:

This is my first attempt at a clone recipe, so any input and advice would be greatly appreciated! I've been scouring the internet for information on this beer.. they just released a new batch of IPA/IIPA's in December and they haven't released much information on their website as they do with...

Thanks for the information! I plan on making this one more than once so I don't mind playing around with the recipe.

Awesome! I'll adjust the hop bill per that information - Do you think the dry hopping will need to be adjusted as well?

This is my first attempt at a clone recipe, so any input and advice would be greatly appreciated! I've been scouring the internet for information on this beer.. they just released a new batch of IPA/IIPA's in December and they haven't released much information on their website as they do with...

I recently made this for the 3rd or 4th time - solid beer. This time I switched the Fuggles with Saaz. I know it's not "to style" with using German hops but wow.. the Saaz really added a level of crispness that I didn't get from the Fuggles. With changing the hops I get a really nice malty...

Finally got my hands on the real thing... mine is on the right, Trillium on the left. Appearance: Both beers have very similar head. Trillium's is much less hazy - almost clear. Trillium's is much more red/orange - See the picture.. I have a red deficiency so I might not be the best judge...