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no

exactly right. I got 9.4 (1.072-1.000)*131

It could have settled out, but thick on the bottom, so the downtube is still sucking it up. Might clear after a few more pints. You can cold crash fermentor to leave more sediment behind before transferring and/or use Biofine S (silicic acid). Less yeast in kegs is always good.

The cells/mL/P is for cells going into fresh wort, not beer high in waste products. I would get something like champagne, whiskey, cali ale or another highly alcohol tolerant yeast. As long as you added the right amount of sugar, it is still there ready to be consumed. The problem is going to be...

Neutralizing the pH wont take the acid out of the beer, it just effects the hydronium to hydroxide ratio.

I think maple syrup is good in many beer styles, but especially fall beers. Adds a very subtle "minerally" character. 3.5 oz for 5 gal would be barleywine, porter and stout CO2 levels. http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/

Regardless of the style, I would only use glass or stainless. It is always good to have headroom in the fermentor to prevent blowing off viable yeast into the airlock or the blow-off bucket. If you slightly overpitch you should be fine blowing off yeast.

When harvesting out of bottles, start with a very small amount of wort (ex. 200mL for 5 gal), when you see activity (24-48 hrs), then pitch into 1800mL to make a 2000mL starter, 24 hours later you should be ready to pitch into 20000mL or 20L (approx 5 gal.). As long as you wiped the bottle mouth...