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EDIT: After having the NO CONT PROBLEM , bought 2 new cable and 1 temp probe. Out of the 2 new cables, just one worked. Opened up the new cable with problem and my old cable, both had bad soldering on them. Did not expect that lack of product quality.

Either my thermometer probe or the cable is at fault. Do you guys know if I can replace with another brand or must be Blichmann? It reads a lower temperature and if i touch the cable the screen on the tower of power goes crazy jumping the temperature all around. If i turn off and then on it will...

I`m still dialing the ammount of water I need to use in the 10 gallon breweasy. I`m hitting 70% efficiency, but using the ammount of water Beersmith tells me to, i`m allways ending with more beer and lower gravity. My last brew beersmith told me to use a total of 17.5 gallons of water (I wanted...

I think in a different way. I did a 7 gallon batch to make sure the boilcoil is allways submerged.

I mean't, Not using NEUTRAL! kkk Fixed! sry for that

So. Not using neutral at all for the 240v system. 2 hot lines passing through gfci and going to the outlet + ground. System is working perfect. Thanks everyone for the help

From the GFCI you will send just the 2 hot wires to the outlet. Plus the ground that doesn't go through the gfci. The ground doesn't touch anywhere(either gfci or neutral bus).

Just did my second batch. Still getting my numbers right. Used too much water on both batches. First batch:(IPA) 24,4lbs of grain(fine crush). 15.8gallons of water (added 18% more water than beersmith told me to) MASH PH: 5.3 Beersmith estimated post-boil: 9 gallons at 1,070 My numbers...

hahaha I never did. Usually it get stucks at the beginning, while things are not that hot, you do it once and never have to worry again. If you want, you can install a Tee at the pump output with another ball valve justs to bleed the air.

I think I may have found my problem. The Boilcoil is 5000W rated at 240v. Here in Brazil we have 220v. Using a calculator it shows that at 220V the BoilCoil will justs generate 4200W. Using the same calculatotr, inputing my data(time to boil, etc) it shows that i'm getting 3800W. Maybe this...

Yes, but I had this problem with my pump even before Breweasy. I usually take the silicone tube that goes all the way up and disconect from the autosparge and suck with my mouth. it gets the flow running.

In the tower of power panel, right next to where it says "heat" there's "AT" and if you press enter it asks if you want to enable. Mine is off by default. What this AT means?

I did a test on the Auto mode. It tooke me 12 min and 30 sec to go from 45Celsius(113F), to 65C(149F) and i just had 9 gallons of water in the Kettle. I used the Multimeter in the outlet and I got 220v in my outlet(220v is the standard here in Brazil, I think you guys in US got 240v). If I...

Just did my first test with water, and the boil kettle alone. With justs 9 gallons os water in the kettle, it stuck at full manual power at 208F. I had to put the lid on to hit 212 and get a full boil. Also at full power, i was reaching 2.7F rise per minute(9 gallons of water). Ain't that...

So I don't use tape between the Probe and the adpter Bushing. Ok And between the bushing and my 1/2 Tee? Should I put tape there?

post #104 by Danam404: "As far as the temp probe, it is not supposed to have teflon tape on it."

Hey Mate! I use tape in everything. But I read somewhere along this post that you shouldn't put tape on the temp probe.

I'll be doing my first batch by the end of this week on my 10G Breweasy(240v) How should I set up the temp probe? Pump out -> T -> Valve ? With the probe in the T? Or should I put the T after the valve? I will be using a regular T with the blichmann bushing for the probe. Should I use tape on...

Thanks mate! I'll give it a try on tuesday and post what happens!

Hey ! Thanks for the reply! I talked to a friend and he told me the same. Use both hot lines coming from the GFCI and the GROUND, and forget about the neutral. Thanks again!