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Is your RO water 30 ppm TDS? Seems pretty high.

You can always do a water test, but the needed info may be available to you at no cost. Call your water utility and ask for their water chemistry lab. The utilities test for many many contaminants, and once a year they report just a smidgeon of those results in an annual public Consumer...

If you have questions during the installation we're always just a phone call/email away - 513-312-2343 or [email protected] Good luck!

I think you mean chloride, rather than chlorine, right?

https://www.buckeyehydro.com/membrane-flush-kit/

What people are trying to tell you is that if you repeatedly remove and reinsert tubing into a quick connect fitting... the chances it will start leaking is high. The stainless steel "teeth" inside the fitting that bite onto the tube do a tiny bit of damage to the tube every time you...

Another good point. Many (most?) vendors don't bother telling people to do this.

Good point. Most don't know that an RO system can be configured easily to feed both a pressurized tank, AND an unpressurized outlet.

Comes in the bottom of the cartridge, and exits out the very center of the top.

I don't recall if it's been said already... but I'd not use a axial flow GAC as a prefilter. There are so many reasonably priced carbon blocks that offer far superior performance.

That filter cartridge should have had a rubber gasket at the top that makes a seal.

For those not familiar with us, we are a long-time sponsor of Home Brew Talk - we provide water treatment solutions for the home brew and commercial brewing markets.

That's what's called a axial flow cartridge. There should be a cap cemented in in the center of the bottom. There is not seal on the bottom - water flows in those openings in the bottom and out the top. If they used that as a prefilter they probably gave you a GAC filter - this is a low end...

TDS meters work well. Even an inexpensive handheld unit. Unlike pH meters they are robust and don't need constant calibration. https://www.buckeyehydro.com/meters-and-controllers/

If you end up getting an RO system, you'll want to feed it softened water. Russ

If you/your family are using this water to drink/shower... you should get it tested. It is not that expensive. Here is the test we use: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/drinking-water-test/ If your water is "really hard," realize that it will adversely affect your water heater, washing machine...

Or instead of getting rid of your RO, just use the prefilters (sediment filter and carbon block) to treat your chlorine. Keep the flow through a 10" x 2.5" carbon block at less that 0.5 gpm.

I forgot to mention this earlier - but a good rule of thumb is that pressurized water tanks only hold about 50% of their volume in water. The rest is taken up by an air bladder. So if you need 13 gals of water, you'd be looking at a 25 or 30 gallon storage tank.

Yes - the float valve stops the flow of purified water ("permeate"). That causes the pressure in the tube feeding the float valve to start climbing. The Auto shut off valve senses this and cuts off all flow to the RO membrane - which stops the flow of waste water ("concentrate"). The auto...

You'd be better off refilling an UNpressurized 5 gallon bucket into which you mounted a float valve!