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I just used this in a NEIPA I brewed. I don't think it's S-33 because I got pretty high attenuation (82%). 1.070 to 1.012. I also mashed this at 158 F so I was surprised it still got such high attenuation. The flavor was actually really good, nothing Belgiany or peppery as other people said...

Yeah I agree. I just tried the NEIPA I did with it last night, and it is actually one of the best I've made despite the high FG. I'm for sure getting the apricot and vanilla esters too. I'm definitely going to keep brewing with it and try to figure out how best to use it.

I actually had a similar situation with a NEIPA I just did. 1.066 OG that only got down to 1.022. 67% AA. This one was extract (MoreBeer Ultralight LME), but I have done basically this same recipe a bunch of times before and it usually gets 75%-80% AA with 1318, Notty, or US-05. It had less...

Oh yeah, I feel like I should go back and revisit my review of the New England strain. I used it in a couple more beers, and I'm actually not really a fan. The flavor is ok, but there's something about it that I don't really like that was distinct in all the beers I did with it. Also it acted...

I found this quick summary of the Q and A you posted in this reddit post: . Basically the guy from Verdant said they started with 1318 in their early days and repitched it a ton of times before having it banked and isolating the dominant strain from what had become a multistrain culture. By...

I rehydrated 1 pack of the New England and pitched into 5.5 gal of 1.051 ESB at 68F. So I just did a typical dry yeast pitching rate. It started fermenting the next day, so lag time was not really an issue. Started raising the temp after about 3 or 4 days slowly up to about 71F. It did take...

I would wait until fermentation is done (krausen dissipates, yeast is flocculating, beer is clearing) then dry hop. I always dry hop in the primary and I almost never transfer to a secondary at all. Then keg it once you have consistent gravity readings a couple days apart. I would definitely...

Did you cold crash this before bottling and use the cold crash temperature for the calculator? For the temperature input you should use the highest temperature the beer reached during fermentation or technically the highest temperature it reached while it was still producing a lot of CO2.

Yeah if that was a 5 gallon batch you probably won't get much carbonation with that amount of sugar. Like less than 1.5 volumes I'm guessing. I always go by weight in which case you should be adding about 0.75-1 oz per gallon of beer. According to that calculator you should have added about...

If it's coming out as all foam, you wouldn't be able to tell if it's overcarbed when you drink it because all of the extra CO2 would have come out already. How exactly do you force carb? Let it sit for a while at high PSI? Or do you shake it at high PSI? Or something else? Yeah since you...

What was your carbonation procedure? Sounds like it's overcarbed. Also, I agree that 3 ft lines are too short. I have 10 ft lines and I would recommend that length as a minimum.

I know this is moot because you've already pitched, but just for future reference and anyone who reads this thread in the future I absolutely agree with Gavin C. I suppose unpitched wort WILL last indefinitely depending on the way you define the word indefinitely. If you mean "an unknown...

I've never heard of or experienced dark beers taking longer to carbonate. There's no reason I can think of for that to be the case. Higher alcohol beers will take longer to carbonate. And carbonation will take longer at cooler temperatures. Was your Brown IPA high gravity? Did you keep...

No problem, I figured that's what you meant. I believe the mash water amount has some effect on mash pH, but it will largely depend on the chemistry of your water. The actual starting pH of the water doesn't have much of an effect on the mash pH. It's all about the buffering capacity and ion...

Yeah, high fermentation temperatures will not cause the yeast to stall. On the contrary, yeast prefer higher temperatures and ferment much more efficiently as the temperature gets higher (up to around 37C to 40C). The problem is that they also produce more and more off flavors and fusel...

The pH of your runnings is not important to monitor with batch sparging, which is what those sources you listed are saying. But the mash pH is the most important pH to get right. And since that comes into play at dough in and during the mash rest, there is virtually no difference at that point...

Yeah I had an 9.2% Imperial IPA that wasn't carbed after a month or so and I swirled the bottles a couple times a week and tried to warm them up for a few weeks and they carbed up nicely. Not sure if it was the swirling, the warming, or just the extra time.

Yeah I would just wait a little longer. The higher the alcohol the longer it takes to carbonate. Keeping them all as warm as you can will help it go faster too. I have an 11.2% RIS that's been in the bottle for 6 months that's still not carbed. I was thinking of adding champagne yeast...

I usually make my priming solution in a mason jar in the microwave. So I just put a lid on it and put it into my bucket of starsan while I get everything else together. That cools it down enough for me to handle it which I'm sure is plenty. But if your beer is still carbing fine, then I don't...

I agree with theseeker4, I don't think sparge water temperature matters much at least with a batch sparge type method. So I would just do a cold water sparge, then you won't have to worry about issues with heating the sparge water. For my past several brews I've just been using room temp...