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Answering your last question has done the service of answering my question, I believe, as the temp control box has your standard 15A 125w outlet on it (that I imagine 99% of us have used when building our STC-1000 boxes). That would make the option of using the 2000w element moot, right? I'm a...

Two-parter... 1. Let's say I have a 1500w heating element plugged into a temp controller box, and the box is plugged into your standard 20A GFCI kitchen outlet. When selecting the plug the element's wire will connect to, I have the choice of purchasing the non-GFCI plug (here) or the plug...

So just a little pro/con rundown after a number of brews with the U.S. model... Pros: - Cleanup is substantially faster not only due to the smaller number of vessels involved but the cleaning cycle you run on it at the end. Just set it and walk away for a bit, dump the cleaning water, refill...

Just thought of another question - the NZ version's got a mash and a boil toggle to go between the 500w heat and the 2,000w heat. Is the US version going to have the same, but just 500/1,600? or will it not have a switch, and always go at 1,600?

I didn't mention it in my last (long-winded) reply but I'd pulled the trigger about 10 minutes prior :) Now it just needs to be funded!

I guess I'm of two minds on it. On the one hand, yes, it's a lighter boil, no question about it. On the other hand, I've done enough reading on this topic since picking up this hobby to know what sorts of side effects a lighter boil can create, and I'm still not entirely convinced that those...

My concern is that it won't be enough juice to hit a boil, or maintain a very low boil that's going to force me to run 2+ hour boils. And, while I had read they'd be posting a video, I also know there's only 10 kickstarter slots left at the $800 price point so time is somewhat of a factor for...

As was mentioned above, I need to see the US version keep a boil with the 1600w element. I have zero issue doling out the costs for this but it's a complete and total non-starter if boils become a 2-3 hour process.

It's a matter of real estate for the grain to fully extract. You only do a partial volume mash with a "normal" 3-tier process because you make up for the rest of it in the sparge. If you use, say, 60% of your final volume in the mash, the grain will release only so much sugar, needing to be...

I'm in search of this exact product located here - http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brew-logic-double-regulator-adapter.html Midwest customer support, whom I just spoke with, told me they're actually backordered on this product. They explicitly state in the product description that they're not...

I personally like to load up on the different O-rings. If one breaks it's something you kinda have to have to serve beer properly...but is also the cheapest part of the whole assembly and therefore we've got no excuse as homebrew keggers not to have backups on hand. My one tip I always like to...

Someone please jump in if I'm incorrect about this, but he says he's got 5g in a 15g keg. At 11psi wouldn't the last week he's been carbing it have mostly been spent on filling the headspace? Either bump it up a bit (18ish) for another week, then test every other day until it seems good and...

How utterly useless. There must be some applications where that gauge is useful, but I'm gathering that the homebrew world and the place where that gauge is an asset don't intersect. Thanks for the response!

Really hoping someone can help me solve this CO2 maybe-issue... I just put my first beer in my keg, then followed the steps I was given in the keg kit instructions I got from Midwest Brewing. I have a 5 lb CO2 tank, and when I connected the regulator the "high pressure gauge" read 875-900...

I have a 20' IC that I've only used once in a 10-gallon pot (which had 5 gallons of wort in it). I found that it took an awfully long time to cool, hardly an improvement over the ice bath/stirring sans IC I did on my first batch. The water coming out of the output end of the IC was seeming as...