Question about GFCI-dependent heating element

[wattershed]

Two-parter...

1. Let's say I have a 1500w heating element plugged into a temp controller box, and the box is plugged into your standard 20A GFCI kitchen outlet.

When selecting the plug the element's wire will connect to, I have the choice of purchasing the non-GFCI plug (here) or the plug with built-in GFCI (here) for $15 more.

Ideally I'd like to save money where I can and was wondering that if the temp controller box is going to be plugged into a GFCI outlet, can I get away with getting the $3 plug (knowing there's a GFCI outlet further along in the chain)? Or is a GFCI required at every point in the chain, i.e. where the element plug plugs into the temp controller box, as well as where the box plugs into the wall outlet in the kitchen?

2. Additionally, if I were to instead get the 2000w heating element, I know that HAS to terminate in a GFCI outlet, but again, same question, does it have to have a GFCI outlet at each point in the chain? I get that technically it's optional with the 1500w element but if I want to go with the 2000w element is connecting that to my current temp control box out of the question?

 

[raouliii]

Two-parter...

1. Let's say I have a 1500w heating element plugged into a temp controller box, and the box is plugged into your standard 20A GFCI kitchen outlet.

When selecting the plug the element's wire will connect to, I have the choice of purchasing the non-GFCI plug (here) or the plug with built-in GFCI (here) for $15 more.

Ideally I'd like to save money where I can and was wondering that if the temp controller box is going to be plugged into a GFCI outlet, can I get away with getting the $3 plug (knowing there's a GFCI outlet further along in the chain)? Or is a GFCI required at every point in the chain, i.e. where the element plug plugs into the temp controller box, as well as where the box plugs into the wall outlet in the kitchen?

2. Additionally, if I were to instead get the 2000w heating element, I know that HAS to terminate in a GFCI outlet, but again, same question, does it have to have a GFCI outlet at each point in the chain? I get that technically it's optional with the 1500w element but if I want to go with the 2000w element is connecting that to my current temp control box out of the question?

Either one of those elements can be plugged into a 20amp GFCI receptacle, with a non-gfci plug attached to it and be protected. There is no need to have more than one gfci component in the chain.

However, technically, the 1500w element can have either a 15amp or 20amp plug attached but the 2000w element should only have a 20amp plug attached, which neither of those linked plugs satisfies.

If a 20amp receptacle is incorporated into the temperature control box for the element, it should have a 20amp plug on its power cord as well.

Keep in mind, not all gfci receptacles are 20amp rated. A 20amp rated gfci will have a nema 5-20 configuration which has a T slot for the neutral, tall, blade.

You gave no information on your temperature control box but it may be pertinent to this issue.

 

[wattershed]

Answering your last question has done the service of answering my question, I believe, as the temp control box has your standard 15A 125w outlet on it (that I imagine 99% of us have used when building our STC-1000 boxes). That would make the option of using the 2000w element moot, right? I'm a little slow on electricity and the math behind it but even I feel safe assuming I wouldn't be able to use the 2000w element with the temp control box...

The kitchen outlets are the 'T' style so I know I've got the potential for 20A use there.

I appreciate the quick response, thank you!

 

[raouliii]

A 1500w/120v element will draw about 12.5amps. If I understand you correctly, your temperature controller is an STC1000 build. Unless you have added an SSR or contactor to that build, the STC1000 will likely fry/melt/burn at a constant 12.5amp current throughput. They are only rated for a maximum of 10amps.

 

[tjmac5071]

A 1500w/120v element will draw about 12.5amps. If I understand you correctly, your temperature controller is an STC1000 build. Unless you have added an SSR or contactor to that build, the STC1000 will likely fry/melt/burn at a constant 12.5amp current throughput. They are only rated for a maximum of 10amps.

I do not want to cause anyone to go down a dangerous route but I am currently thinking about the 1500w element and stc-1000 as well. Somewhere along the line I read that it is built with 15a components but only rated 10a. Does anyone know if there is any truth to that? Since my plan is to start heating while I am still snoozin away I will likely not use the stc1000 out of caution and just perform some tests to figure out the rough time it takes to get to mash temps and hook up to a timer.

 

[PeteNMA]

It may contain a relay rated to switch 15A but the traces on the board are not capable of handling 15A.

 

[TexasWine]

I do not want to cause anyone to go down a dangerous route but I am currently thinking about the 1500w element and stc-1000 as well. Somewhere along the line I read that it is built with 15a components but only rated 10a. Does anyone know if there is any truth to that?

Don't do this. I tried before I educated myself on some very simple electrical principles. Almost burned the house down and electrocuted myself simultaneously. Big pop, melted wires, scary.

 

[tjmac5071]

Don't do this. I tried before I educated myself on some very simple electrical principles. Almost burned the house down and electrocuted myself simultaneously. Big pop, melted wires, scary.

Thanks for confirming my decision to go no stc-1000. I will likely go straight off time at first then get a temp controller capable of at least 15a

 

[WI_Wino]

What about using a contactor and having the stc control the coil voltage? You need a box to house the stc controller anyway. Wiring in a contactor would take an extra five minutes.