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You like hoppy ale like me. :mug: I have made hundreds of 12 gallon batches and my neighbors love me. I have to say that not one of them will brew any beer though. It's much better and cheaper to go all grain. I would not go back to bottles either. Kegging is much easier. WBC

http://www.howtobrew.com/

Read here if the OP has not done so. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/hybrid-fly-sparge-technique-75454/

I use digital temperature sensors. I do not let glass near my beer either. I ferment in Sanky kegs now. It is much better for safety.

Your first lager has gone through the critical time and raising up to 55F would not hurt it now. I would brew the second lager and when you get done with primary and a week of secondary you can lower them both to lagering temperature.

This indicates that you pay too much attention to your airlock. It does not matter.

It looks like some are 9/16 -18 tpi and others are 5/8 -18 tpi.

You should disassemble. Any old crud stuck in the poppet spring could ruin a full keg of beer. I know because in my earlier days this happened to me. That's OK if the temperature in the keg is that cold but most go by room temperature and at 65F the beer might be 73F. Remember that in the...

Because ovens are too small to make a reasonable size mash and some do not regulate heat well at 150F. I brew 12 gallons at a time and because you are doing all the same things, why not make enough to make it worthwhile.

You are getting some conversion if it is tasting sweet. The iodine test works well so trust it. An oven is a poor way to mash. You are much better off with a cooler/mash-tun. They are not too expensive either.

Read about Medicinal flavors in this thread. Maybe there was some cleaner that was not rinsed well enough? Are you controlling the fermentation temperature?

Ok, I give a little just move the lid off the mashtun after transfer to the boiler when needed.

Try not being concerned with transferring the entire contents of the boiler to the fermenter. The trub (particulates and hops) does no harm to the fermentation process and does no ruin the beer. This is not only easier but I think it adds nutrients to the fermentation process and the yeast...

There are many of us older brewers who do not fuss with our beer and we do not use a secondary fermenter or even test using a hydrometer because we have learned to be one with the yeast. We brew excellent beer. Tools like hydrometers are used when you want to know what sugar or alcohol content...

Find another keg if you want them to match and be able to find pot lids at a reasonable price. You do not really need a lid on your boiler as you don't want to confine the boil due to DMS. Read about DMS in the link last sentence. Dimethyl Sulfides need to be boiled off into the atmosphere.

If you are thinking 10 gallon you need a 15 gallon boiler and a 15 gallon cooler/mash-tun. Without extra room you get weaker beers + less efficiency due to room in the mash-tun and boil-overs in the boiler.

My big beef with many brewers is temperature control. Most go by room temperature. Fermentation is EXOTHERMIC (producing heat). In the fist days of fermentation it can be as high as 8 degrees F above the surrounding air outside the fermenter and then as the yeast has less sugar after the...

You could also say you have 30.00 saved for a real mill. :)

For a lager yeast I let it primary for 4 weeks. The less you mess with it the better. Every time you go into it you are taking chances.

You do not need a secondary for ale. It needs to condition on the yeast for 2 to 3 weeks then keg or bottle.